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Bill Parlatore |
News |
2023-07-20 00:00:00.0 |
2023-07-20 00:00:00.0 |
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<p>The Great Loop remains as popular as ever, one of the premier travel experiences in North America. Even those who do not consider themselves boaters are avid enthusiasts of this circumnavigation of a large portion of the U.S. and Canada. Couples and families come from Europe, Australia, and beyond to see North America in one of the best ways to travel ever devised. The history, culture, cuisine, people, and natural beauty of this country are best seen on its waterways, and countless people confirm this is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.</p>
<p>Given its popularity, it is common for people to ponder what is involved in making this trip. And, of course, what does it cost to have this experience: the expenses to cover boat, fuel, marinas, maintenance, and other monies associated with extended travel.</p>
<p>I have to admit there is one thing I hate when reading marine publications and consumer magazines. I detest, more than anything else, when people want these kinds of answers—whether a boat test, equipment review, or travel story—and never get a conclusive answer. No matter what the subject or matter at hand, the writer never provides an answer at the end of the story. Which one is best among its competitors, what should one expect, what does it cost, and finally…which one should I buy? The writer always ends the piece with the same comment, and that makes me crazy. “Well, it depends…” It is downright lazy and sheds all remnants of accountability. The writer sidesteps the question, and the reader is left on his own.</p>
<p>So, when I thought about writing about the cost of doing a <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">Great Loop</a> trip, I was a bit uncomfortable taking on the subject, given the numerous factors where each has a huge impact of the cost of Trip A versus Trip B, C, or D. I’ve been thinking a lot about it, though, and I think I have come up with a path that any serious planner can use to determine the projected cost of doing a Loop adventure.</p>
<p><em>(Below: The AGLCA has some great informative events to learn about the specifics of The Great Loop.)</em></p>
<p><img title="aglca event for the great loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/aglca-event.jpg?cb=92BCB8AF-9C93-B634-AD9E4F0C15A77D57" alt="aglca event for the great loop" width="800" height="432" /></p>
<p>One step that is most important to anyone even slightly considering this trip is to join an organization that has so many benefits it should be considered mandatory for all Great Loop cruisers and would-be dreamers. And that is to join the <a href="https://www.greatloop.org/" target="_blank">American Great Loop Cruisers Association (AGLCA)</a>. For the cost of yearly membership, one has access to a lot of updated information that exists nowhere else. Anecdotal comments from Uncle Charlie from his cruise 10 years ago and now buried on the Internet can be ignored, and one can sift through information that is fresh, spot on, and changes almost daily as Loopers send in comments about waterway status and other factors that affect anyone behind them on the Loop. No matter who you are, what kind of boat you have (or want), or what part of the Loop you are most interested in, joining the AGLCA is the best investment one can make. Sign up today. Enough said.</p>
<p>So, how much does it cost to do the Great Loop?</p>
<p>Well, it depends…</p>
<p>No seriously, I won’t leave you hanging out there, I promise. There are quite a few factors that impact the costs of this trip. But they are mostly known ahead of time, and most depend entirely on you and your own situation. There are some basic questions to address. The answers you come up with will go a long way to telling you how much money your Great Loop will involve, while still providing a terrific adventure.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Size Matters</strong></p>
<p>I assume you already know that the most common kind of Loop boat is a <a href="../../../../used-trawler-yachts-for-sale/">trawler yacht</a> of some kind. While the word has been grossly misused in recent years, a traditional trawler is typically a single engine powerboat with a comfortable, liveaboard interior that allows self-sufficient cruising with good fuel economy. It is a suitable home for a couple to travel at a snail’s pace (six to eight knots is pretty common) and keep going and going.</p>
<p>The larger the boat, the more expensive it will be to put in a slip in a marina along the way. This is true whether it is a trawler, a motoryacht, a center console, sailboat, or canal barge. When there are travel expenses along the Loop, calculated by the foot, they will always be more expensive for a larger boat than a small one. A pint-sized Ranger tug will be less money for its owners to travel the Loop than a <a href="../../../../Used-Yachts-For-Sale/fleming-yachts">Fleming</a> 55 or <a href="../../../../new-endurance-yachts-for-sale/">Endurance</a> 640 motoryacht, but there will be compromises one may not wish to make on a small boat. All make outstanding cruisers, and only you can decide if one makes more sense for your needs than the other. Big is good, big is comfortable, but big is also more expensive to park for the night—or for several weeks when it comes time to get off for annual doctor visits and family commitments back home.</p>
<p><em>(Below: The <a href="../../../../new-yachts-for-sale/Hampton-Endurance-590">Endurance 590 </a>will be launched soon and would be a truly luxurious Great Loop boat.)</em></p>
<p><img title="endurance 590" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/endurance-yachts-590.jpg?cb=9313B784-02C8-51AA-FAEB668A79F76949" alt="endurance 590" width="800" height="432" /></p>
<p>For some this is a moot point, as they will do the Loop on what they already own. It may be a 48-foot sailboat that has been lovingly enjoyed for many years and which is pressed into Loop service, without mast and standing rigging, of course. They were removed and stored at the home marina for the duration of the trip. A sailboat-turned-powerboat actually makes a great cruiser for the Loop in that it is comfortable and very economical with its smaller single diesel engine. This assumes, of course, its draft is not deep. Tricked out racers like a Swan or Farr will not be good choices while most mainstream cruising sailboats work well. And sailors know they make great powerboats because we motor in them often more than we’d like to admit.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>The Engine or Engines</strong></p>
<p>Since I’ve already said the best boat for the Loop is a powerboat, we can assume there is at least one engine that powers the boat, or two, or possibly more. These days it is common to find both gas and diesel engines in boats along the Loop, and there are advantages to either. Without going into a discussion of one engine versus two, what your boat has is what you’ll deal with for the trip. And, as we’ll see, that makes a difference—a measurable difference—in the fuel costs of the trip, everything else being equal.</p>
<p>Loop boats span the range of cruising platforms from slow-poke trawler at single-digit speed to triple-outboard speed machines than have potential for speeds well in excess of 50 mph. (Miles per hour is the recognized speed measure for this inland trip, not knots.)</p>
<p>While there are places for slow speed as well as wide open, I’m not sure they should be a deciding factor. After all, the Great Loop is a trip of discovery and experience. It is hard to create meaningful memories if one blasts through the Loop at high speed and sees little of the journey besides a blurred shoreline.</p>
<p><em>(Below: While we don't recommend it, someone even did a 7,000 mile Great Loop on a jet ski.)</em></p>
<p><img title="great loop on jet ski" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/great-loop-on-a-waverunner.jpg?cb=933E3ADD-E33B-3E1A-CC00CF3E482ED1FA" alt="great loop on jet ski" width="800" height="460" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Your Style of Boating</strong></p>
<p>This is perhaps the biggest determining factor for identifying costs of the trip. And it is entirely personal, without any associated judgement whatsoever. Some people by nature like to do it all. They arrive somewhere new, and want to take it all in. Much like the couple I followed who did the Loop on their <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus Boats</a> cruiser, <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Last Item</a>, they got off the boat for days on end, renting a car and exploring parts of a city or area that involved company tours, museums, nature side trips, and whatever else the area had to offer. If they were told to hold tight for a few days due to flooding conditions at the locks, they weren’t fazed one bit. They just parked the boat and took off sightseeing.</p>
<p><em>(Below: Fred & Sidonia completed their Great Loop on a Nimbus 405.)</em></p>
<p><img title="nimbus boats does the great loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nimbus-boats-does-the-great-loop.jpg?cb=935CAADB-FE8D-8E6D-0437A2C9E297B6AB" alt="nimbus boats does the great loop" width="800" height="516" /></p>
<p>Do you and your spouse like to go out to eat meals at the local pubs and restaurants, or do you prefer to eat in? Are you likely to anchor out whenever possible or will your crew opt for a comfortable slip in a marina that makes it easy to get involved in the local community and attend music festivals, concerts, farmers markets, holiday celebrations, and interesting local events? Only you know the answers here, and it only reflects your preferences that figure into calculating the projected expenses of the trip.</p>
<p>Another reason for paying for a slip might be the convenience of services, like marina bath facilities (and showers), restaurants, historical walkabouts (good use of electric bikes), and other “immersive” activities that are a primary reason why most of us want to do the Loop in the first place. It may also make it easier for friends and family to meet up with you, even if they stay in town at a hotel. Meeting friends and family along the Loop really ties it all together for many people and is essential for the memories they create.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Your Preference for Travel</strong></p>
<p>This is different from the style of boating, as it reflects more on your daily routines. Some people like to get up early and head off as soon as possible, in some cases at daybreak. If they are on a faster boat, they make tracks right away and get the daily miles behind them while the day is young. These cruisers may enjoy getting their daily run done by lunchtime or early afternoon, and then spend the rest of the day, often in a marina, washing off the boat, taking a nap, and exploring the town.</p>
<p>This is decidedly different from others, especially those on slower boats, who find the journey is more important than the destination. Spending eight hours under way is much more to their liking than blasting to the next stop. They take more time to travel the same distance, of course, but for them it is a more relaxed way to travel, and life aboard goes on. Laundry is done under way, as is lengthy meal prep, daily chores, even some boat maintenance. These folks are the quintessential trawler cruisers, and they much prefer leisurely travel at eight knots over being strapped into the helm seat of a PT boat making an attack run against an enemy battleship at wide open throttle.</p>
<p>Another element to that question is how you envision your travel days over long term. I’ve often heard successful cruisers (which I define as not quickly burning out) tell me they prefer to travel for three consecutive days, then taking two days off wherever they happen to be. They use the down time as days off the boat, recharging one’s batteries, and generally breaking up the mindset of a go-go-go boat delivery. This is a very healthy attitude and one I heartily promote. Anything that keeps the trip from being one monotonous day after another is to be pursued, or else memories of the trip will be nothing but foggy moments.</p>
<p><em>(Below: The AGLCA YouTube Channel has some excellent informational videos about the Great Loop.)</em></p>
<p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/hlv2RNE9eLk" width="800" height="450" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Life’s Other Commitments</strong></p>
<p>On a trip that can last a year or more, it is quite likely that only being on one’s boat nonstop is hardly realistic. For most people, especially those with close family, there are simply too many other activities that attract our attention if we are away beyond several weeks. Grandchildren are important, and the thought of missing key events in their young lives is not an option. There are weddings and graduations, and anniversaries and family holidays, not to mention yearly medical checkups and doctor and dentist visits that are important.</p>
<p>For all of these reasons, and there are probably many more, it is perfectly normal to need at least one break from the Loop adventure, perhaps two or three, over the course of one’s sabbatical from regular life. And there is no reason to miss any important family events, so factor them into the travel equation.</p>
<p>Scheduling a break and putting the boat safely in a secure location, a reputable marina well known for just this kind of contingency, is all part of the experience. Most Loopers I know have prepared for this ahead of time, not as a reaction to some event for which they were not expecting or prepared—although that happens all too frequently as well.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Have a Game Plan</strong></p>
<p>All of the above is vital to understand well in advance of the actual trip. Each of these categories will determine how you experience the Great Loop and help you with expectations in terms of expenses, costs, and fees.</p>
<p>I already mentioned how valuable it is to join the AGLCA. In addition to the useful and continually updated resource information available to all of its members, the issue of Loop costs has been creatively incorporated into a calculator of trip expenses. That alone may be worth the cost of membership.</p>
<p>This calculator relies on self-reported data of those who complete the Loop, in whatever variation they ultimately completed. The cruisers fill in a form that identifies what their expectations were, particulars of their boat, and then the actual data from their completed Loop. The smart people who developed this program made it accessible at the level of each field on the form, which makes it incredibly useful for this exercise.</p>
<p>I spent time looking at reports from boats, from fairly small, approximately 24 feet LOA, to larger boats up to 60 feet in length. And by carefully interpreting the various data points, I think one can reasonably turn “Well, it depends…” into pretty accurate answers based on the experiences of people who completed the Loop. By not focusing on information that can routinely change, such as the cost of diesel fuel or gas, or the average cost of marina slip fees from five years ago when they did their Loop, one can easily compute what those costs will be based in current times.</p>
<p><em>(Below: Scho & Jo provide detailed information about the cost of their Great Loop experience and offer an in-depth <a href="https://schoandjo.com/product/great-loop-budget-calculator/" target="_blank">Great Loop Budget Calculator</a> to help you plan for your trip. Read more about their <a href="https://schoandjo.com/great-loop-expenses/" target="_blank">month-to-month expenses</a> along the Great Loop for more information about what this trip cost them.)</em></p>
<p><img title="great loop expense sheet" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/great-loop-expense-sheet.jpg?cb=9393816A-0F2B-D0C6-2A1E5970BA574360" alt="great loop expense sheet" width="800" height="513" /></p>
<p>I have seen a lot of boats finishing the Great Loop, and they range all over the place. One fellow did it in a Walker Bay 15-foot RIB, which offsets a couple who did their Loop in their brand-new Hampton motoryacht. And the Nimbus cruiser I followed last year was a perfect size and layout for a single couple who want to be comfortable and not much more.</p>
<p>I recall inspecting a MacGregor 26 sailboat that the owner converted into a cruising powerboat, with mast and all standing and running rigging removed, tall lifeline stanchions installed on the side decks, and an enclosure of sorts made out of blue acrylic canvas. It would never be the star of any boat show, but I’m sure this crew completed the Loop and spent (I imagine) well under $10,000. It was a budget boat for a budget Loop. And that is fine with me. Whatever loops your Loop.</p>
<p>The input form used in the calculator interestingly asks for some pre-trip expectations of how the trip will be done. How many miles do you expect to do on this trip? While the Great Loop can be loosely interpreted as anywhere between 4,500 and 7,000 miles, most people said they expect to travel 5,000 or 6,000 miles (it asks for a number, not a range). This is very consistent from the dozens of reports I reviewed, regardless of size of vessel, date, or any other criteria.</p>
<p>Based on that estimate of total miles traveled, and then looking at the post-trip data, one could see the number of engine hours for each boat during their trip, and its average speed in statute miles. Both are easily measured or calculated by most all modern navigation and engine electronics. Regardless of how many engines one has, once we know total engine hours and average speed, as well as the boat’s total fuel burned per hour (also captured by many electronics, or on older boats taken from the boat’s fuel burn curve), the cost of fuel can be accurately determined using average current fuel pricing.</p>
<p>And for those who like to play mind games with numbers, it is easy to see that slower boats take longer to make the same distance as faster boats. There are dozens and dozens of examples to use for this analysis. Boats that average 8 mph generally take 775 to 850 hours to do their Loop (the difference being how many miles their Loop was. Not everyone wants to go everywhere). Boats that average 12 mph often completed the Loop in under 600 hours, while those few boats that averaged much higher speeds (17 to 19 mph) only ran their engines around 300 hours. But the majority of boats cruised at 7-8 mph.</p>
<p>The above is not scientific analysis, but it is simple enough to see that for a given total distance traveled, knowing the average speed and engine hours confirms the total miles and provides enough information to understand how much fuel was burned. And how many oil changes were necessary and other maintenance.</p>
<p>Most important for those looking to determine projected costs, each boat owner is asked how many miles they expected to run each day, as well as how many days per week they plan to be on the move. This is very helpful to determine the necessary logistics. Most Loopers shoot for 50 miles a day, some a bit higher or lower, but mostly 50 miles per day and on the move between 3 to 5 days a week.</p>
<p><em>(Below: Fred and Sidonia stop along their Great Loop trip to fill up with fuel.)</em></p>
<p><img title="filling up with fuel along the great loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fuel-costs-along-the-great-loop.jpg?cb=93AC92D4-EA6A-09D0-59ACE49015F8978A" alt="filling up with fuel along the great loop" width="800" height="450" /></p>
<p>Also very telling is the question of how many nights they plan to spend in a marina versus anchoring out. It ranged from anchoring out most of the time, only spending 1 to 3 nights in a marina, to cruisers who fully expected to spend most nights in a marina, 5 to 7 days a week. Depending on where you see your own situation on this question will also answer how many times you will eat aboard versus cruise the local scene for interesting cuisine.</p>
<p>All of the above answers go directly into the calculations of how much one should reasonably expect to spend during one’s Great Loop. Eating two meals a day at a marina or in town is going to be quite different in terms of cost when compared to living and eating wraps, soup, and sandwiches on the boat most days at anchor. But once you know this, you are more than halfway to the answer.</p>
<p>I want to point out that I was looking for general ranges of numbers for estimate purposes. If you know you’re interested in a Loop that you determine is close to 6,000 miles, you will want to pull up records for trips that fit near those miles traveled, as well as other information that you already know. Your results will no doubt be a lot closer together than my numbers. With reasonable analysis this holds true for other criteria, such as average cruising speed and fuel burn, or number of days per week in a marina.</p>
<p>I would not be surprised if you found the engine hours data among similar reports are all within 50 hours of each other, so that you can quite accurately know how much fuel you will be buying on the trip. Same for many of the other factors.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>So How Much Does It All Cost?</strong></p>
<p>Throughout all of this, one must honestly and repeatedly ask the question: What is the Great Loop experience we are looking for?</p>
<p>While I was going through the files I’ve collected from people who did this trip, as well as the numerous results found in the AGLCA calculator, I wondered if there was a sweet spot. Comparing each boat’s total cost of the trip, which ranged from $10,000 to $200,000 in the AGLCA database, there is no obvious ideal number one should aim for. It is so different in so many ways.</p>
<p>I know when working with Sidonia and Fred on their Nimbus adventure, getting off the boat and renting a car to travel to nearby places made so much sense to me, even if it added to their trip expenses. Like most others, I also know I will not likely pass this way again, so seeing something special or memorable that requires a three-hour drive away from the marina is kind of a now-or-never opportunity.</p>
<p>Knowing I’m going to spend 650 to 850 hours chugging along one of the most unique waterway routes in North America, I again remind myself it is likely only going to happen once. That gives me pause, to consider all that is out there to experience, and balance that potential with the realities of what it will cost. This is a trip of a lifetime, and the memories will last the rest of my life.</p>
<p>So, I can’t help but think that seeing the special history of a town I never knew existed, and how it shaped our country in some special way, is ultimately more important to me than how many times I made dinner on the boat, anchored in a quiet and peaceful spot just off the waterway. For me, the Great Loop is about discovery and learning the history and contributions of those who came before me.</p>
<p>I will keep that very much in mind when I figure out how much my Loop should cost.</p>
<p>I suggest you do the same. You only live once.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Enjoy these other boating and cruising articles by <a href="../../../../yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore">Bill Parlatore</a>:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="../../../../news/cruising-boats-come-of-age">Cruising Boats Come Of Age</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/boat-buying-done-right">Boat Buying Done Right</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/taking-on-the-great-loop">Taking On The Great Loop</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/tips-for-cruising-south-or-preparing-for-the-great-loop">Tips For Preparing For The Great Loop</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/changing-rituals">Changing Rituals</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/did-wisdom-come-to-the-ancient-mariner">Did Wisdom Come To The Ancient Mariner?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/going-world-cruising-not-so-fast">Going World Cruising? Not So Fast</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/what-engines-are-in-your-boat">What Engines Are In Your Boat?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/letting-go-but-still-in-control">Letting Go But Still In Control</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/learning-to-handle-a-new-boat">Learning To Handle A New Boat</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/improving-the-user-experience">Improving The User Experience</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-paradigm-shift-in-cruising" target="_blank">A Paradigm Shift In Cruising</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/consider-buddy-boating">Consider Buddy Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-matter-of-staying-safe-while-boating">A Matter Of Staying Safe While Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/i-am-going-cruising-should-i-carry-a-gun">Should I Carry A Gun While Cruising?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-boaters-three-to-five-year-plan">A Boater's 3-to-5 Year Plan</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/boat-tools-how-do-you-keep-yours">Boat Tools: A 4-Part Series</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-bahamas-caribbean-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Bahamas</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-alaskan-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Alaska</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-evolution-of-the-trawler-yacht">The Evolution Of The Trawler Yacht</a></li>
</ul> |
Guide To How Much The Great Loop Costs |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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<p>It is that time of year when boat owners, with planned summer cruises on the family cruiser, cast off their lines and head north to Alaska, New England, Canada, or points of interest in other directions. The weather, except for the pesky hurricane season on the U.S. East Coast, is perfect for extended travel to new places for the family to make new friends, explore new places, and make memories of a lifetime. Remember our cruise back in 2023? That will always be a special memory.</p>
<p>So, when Bob told me he roughed in the itinerary of a summer trip with his wife, Beth, on their <a href="../../../../Used-Yachts-For-Sale/grand-banks-yachts">Grand Banks</a> Eastbay 43, I was all ears. The couple are experienced cruisers, having sailed their Bristol 51 sailboat for years on the East Coast. His travels on the Eastbay include the ICW down and back to Florida, and they want to use the boat to see and experience as much of the country as they can over the next few years.</p>
<p>“It is a cruising boat,” Bob said. ‘So, we need to be using it to go cruising.” It is that simple. If they wanted a boat to just explore around <a href="../../../../yacht-sales-and-brokerage-in-annapolis-maryland">Annapolis</a> and Chesapeake Bay, there are many other, less complicated boats that could serve their needs well. A cruising yacht like the Eastbay is wasted if one only goes out for cocktail cruises or daytime visits around home waters. A <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> or <a href="../../../../new-ocean-sport-boats-for-sale/">Ocean Sport</a> might be a better choice, or a <a href="../../../../Used-Yachts-For-Sale/boston-whaler">Boston Whaler</a>.</p>
<p>What is particularly interesting about Bob’s plan is that he is an accomplished pilot. And his family has become rather spoiled by traveling by private plane around North America for vacations. No lines at crowded airports, endless security checks, and other travel restrictions. Sounds pretty nice.</p>
<p><img title="Grand Banks Eastbay Yacht" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/grand-banks-eastbay-yacht.jpg?cb=43030CAC-C0FA-0AFB-A1D7A7D31965ADDC" alt="Grand Banks Eastbay Yacht" width="800" height="530" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>In case you don’t see the connection here, let me explain. How an experienced pilot approaches trip planning is anything but spontaneous and carefree. Given the reality of flying, there is a critical need to make sure all major elements of planning are done thoroughly and accurately. As Bob once pointed out, the need to carefully map out fuel availability along a route is more than just a nicety. Running out of fuel on a boat is an inconvenient hassle. Running out of fuel in an airplane is another matter given the obvious consequences.</p>
<p>This thoroughness is extensive in all of Bob’s trip planning, which is why, of course, I was keen to hear more about the details. And I wanted to see how he approaches the process. This would be especially interesting this year, as the couple’s travels take them far north from Annapolis into Canada and include leaving the boat for a couple of weeks for other family commitments.</p>
<p>It is a summer cruise most of us can relate to, even if we boat in the Pacific Northwest, the Great Lakes, or some other cruising area in North America.</p>
<p>Bob’s Triangle Loop is about 1,700 statute miles long, involves five major canal systems of 103 locks, and travels through New York, Canada, and Vermont. The route is familiar to Loopers, as it encompasses popular sections of variations of <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">the Great Loop</a>.</p>
<p><em>(Below: Map of the Triangle Loop. Image Cred: MainelyBensley.com)</em></p>
<p><img title="map of the triangle loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/map-of-triangle-loop.jpg?cb=43443E65-E198-4276-897067D4597C7F7B" alt="map of the triangle loop" width="800" height="630" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The basic plan is to leave Annapolis July 1st. First stop is Cape May, NJ. Then:</p>
<p>Great Kills Harbor, NY<br />Liberty Landing, NJ<br />Waterford, NY<br />Erie Canal<br />Brewerton, NY<br />Lake Ontario<br />Clayton, NY on the St Lawrence River<br />Alexandria Bay<br />Kingston, Ontario<br />Rideau Canal<br />Ottawa<br />Montreal<br />Chambly Canal<br />Lake Champlain<br />Hudson River<br />Cape May<br />Annapolis</p>
<p>There are a couple of hard dates, such as being in NYC for July 4th. They also need to be in Ohio for family time the second two weeks of July. Montreal is on the schedule for August 17th, Burlington, Vermont a week later, and NYC again first of September. The couple will arrive back in Annapolis for Labor Day, September 4th.</p>
<p>Obviously the planned itinerary can change given any number of circumstances. No matter how it ultimately unfolds, however, it is all about having fun.</p>
<p>As Bob said, it is “all about the experience, not making miles.” If only all cruisers could hold to that simple truth and not fall victim to focusing on connecting the dots of a plotter’s route!</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Resources</strong></p>
<p>We are lucky to live in the time of the Internet, and the proliferation of hundreds of data sources that complement (and sometimes contradict) other cruising information.</p>
<p>Bob specifically mentioned the value of the <a href="https://www.waterwayguide.com/" target="_blank">Waterway Guide</a>, <a href="https://www.skipperbob.net/" target="_blank">Skipper Bob Cruising Guides</a>, and <a href="https://www.rideau-info.com/canal/visitor-guide.html" target="_blank">Watson’s Guide to the Rideau Canal</a>. Some material, such as Watson’s, is available for free download, and having a printed copy on hand is a big help during the planning phase, as well as on the cruise.</p>
<p>(Below: Image of Watson's Guide.)</p>
<p><img title="watsons guide to the rideau canal" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/rideau-canal-map.jpg?cb=43030CB9-DADE-6FE4-D56A6603274461CF" alt="watsons guide to the rideau canal" width="800" height="1016" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>He purchased all paper charts of the Canadian waterways to get familiar with any subtle differences in presentation from his U.S. charts, as well as inspect the route options while planning the trip. Despite the consensus of electronic charting, there is some comfort in having official paper charts of all areas one expects to transit. There is always some level of detail one can appreciate from the paper charts.</p>
<p>It is necessary to get permits to travel some areas, as well as crossing between the U.S. and Canada. All of Bob’s planning comes from his aviation orientation. His focus takes into account fuel stops, logging all data of the trip, and tracking usage of the engines and hours of operation. It is a valued habit of a pilot, and there is certainly no harm in accounting down to such a detailed level.</p>
<p>He commented that commercial locks on the St. Lawrence require advanced reservations, as pleasure boats are secondary to commercial use. By requiring reservations, the lock operation can stack the pleasure boats together to go through locks in times between commercial traffic.</p>
<p>I include some images of his log pages as examples, and each has its value. (Also read: <a href="../../../../news/do-you-keep-a-logbook-while-cruising">Do You Keep A Log Book While Cruising?</a>)</p>
<p><img title="log book for cruising" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/log-book.jpg?cb=43030CB5-B989-CF67-60AA1EC1DE4BEA44" alt="log book for cruising" width="800" height="605" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Bob called ahead to each of his expected fuel stops to get current fuel pricing. He uses this as a guide when he cruises as he also keep cruising notes on various alternative travel scenarios that might be considered if the original plan changes. Perfect weather conditions, for example, may urge him to keep going on any particular day, rather than stop prematurely at a planned stop, knowing that the great weather window may not be so ideal the following day. (I have found having predetermined alternatives along a route is a common thing for experienced cruisers. Why leave anything to chance when so many other factors are out of one’s control. It makes sense and offers piece of mind.)</p>
<p><em>(Below: An example of Bob's cruising notes.)</em></p>
<p><img title="cruising notes for the great loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/cruising-notes.jpg?cb=43030CB0-F3B9-AD11-80B48247AF8D55BA" alt="cruising notes for the great loop" width="800" height="818" /></p>
<p>The smartphone app Nebo is quite popular with Great Loopers, and will be aboard for the trip. The boat’s electronics are all Garmin (no surprise, as his airplane has a full Garmin glass helm).</p>
<p>And the U.S. Customs and Border Patrol’s ROAM app will be helpful when necessary.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Some Details</strong></p>
<p>The Eastbay 43 is a Downeast classic, a twin-diesel motorboat that cruises at 20+ knots. The Ray Hunt hull form is efficient and slippery, and offers great performance when compared to a typical displacement trawler. But to keep its slippery shape at its best, Bob plans to have the boat hauled the day before he leaves to have the bottom thoroughly cleaned to maximize his speed and economy through the water.</p>
<p>This brought up the subject of fueling and how much fuel to have in the boat. Full fuel tanks on the Eastbay will add thousands of pounds, as much as 3,600 lbs when 450 gallons are aboard. That is not good for maximizing efficiency, so Bob’s flying experience dictates balancing required fuel and its weight against the fuel one truly needs to travel safely from one place to the next. It is simple math that anyone with a fast boat should practice.</p>
<p>Keeping the boat as light as possible is a good strategy for this hull shape, essentially having only enough fuel onboard needed for the next leg, with perhaps 50 gallons as a minimum reserve. It makes no sense to top off one’s fuel tanks when there is cheap fuel ahead, perhaps at the very next stop. When they reach Brewerton, where they will leave the boat and head off to family events in Ohio, Bob already knows he can expect cheaper fuel than elsewhere.</p>
<p>But it is not an absolute, and an example of the need for flexibility regarding the fuel equation is when they take off from Annapolis. The boat will have full fuel tanks. They plan to stop on the first day in Cape May, New Jersey. However, if the weather and conditions are really good, it may make more sense to keep going to Great Kills Harbor, to ensure being in NYC for July 4th.</p>
<p>(With this discussion of fuel and associated factors, it might seem a fixation of the trip is on fuel conservation and efficiency, but that is definitely not the case. The couple intend to enjoy this special adventure of history, culture, and natural beauty.)</p>
<p>All of us have different ideas about provisioning, especially when one will be in a town almost every night. So there is little need on this trip to eat canned food stored in the bilge. They will eat aboard less than 50 percent of the time, and will provision accordingly. Fresh and perishable food is more of a priority than emergency cans of Dinty Moore stew. Greek yogurt with fresh fruit is the breakfast staple, so no need to load the fridge with bacon, eggs, hash browns, and pastry. As things are consumed, they will reprovision along the way.</p>
<p><em>(Below: Bob's Grand Banks Yacht docked in front of the South Carolina Yacht Club in Windmill Harbor.)</em></p>
<p><img title="Grand Banks docked at marina" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/grand-banks-docked-at-marina.jpg?cb=43030CBD-EE9F-59B7-4FEC2D038DBFEAD5" alt="Grand Banks docked at marina" width="800" height="516" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I’m always curious about people’s style of cruising. What is their daily routine? Bob told me they like to get under way around 9am, and they do so without a lot of talking and interaction. He runs the boat away from the dock and she straightens up the interior for the day. They have their own routines which have been honed by years of cruising on their boats. They know things will be different when they have to deal with more than 100 locks this summer. And if there is something special that demands their attention, passing the Statue of Liberty comes to mind, no problem. It is all about the experience, after all, not making miles.</p>
<p>Ideally they like to “be there” no later than 2pm after a day’s run. Given the Eastbay’s cruising speed of 20+ knots, that is plenty of time to cover serious distance.</p>
<p>Bob ordered two new e-bikes for the trip, both from <a href="https://jackrabbit.bike/" target="_blank">Jack Rabbit</a>. The lightweight micro bikes each only weigh 24 lbs with batteries. The tradeoff for the small size and weight, which makes for easy handling, is that range is limited to only 10 miles or so. But that is more than enough for cruisers heading to the store from the marina for bananas and milk. The bikes cost about $1,000 each and will easily fit in the guest stateroom.</p>
<p> <img title="Jack Rabbit e bike" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/jack-rabbit-e-bike.jpg?cb=4400C47E-DCD7-1DD1-DC79D1B1F4F71BBD" alt="Jack Rabbit e bike" width="800" height="469" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Bob suggests one makes sure everything works before leaving on such a long cruise that spans the summer. And knowing how to really use the chart plotter, beyond the basics needed for a local cocktail cruise around home, is important. There is so much value in modern electronics and their capabilities, yet many of us never take advantage of any of it.</p>
<p>During my recent time aboard Bob’s Eastbay 43, the boat was clearly ready to go. Sparking clean, nothing out of place, no clutter around the helm or on the decks. Not a book or sunglasses sitting around. It is the definition of being ready, prepared to get under way.</p>
<p>It reminds me of an article I wrote about Carlton Mitchell, the world-class sailor and yachtsman who defined yachting so well. In a marina among the fleet before the start of a Bermuda race, while the boats are torn apart and everyone is off scrambling to take care of last minute details and forgotten “need to have” gear before the start, his pretty yawl Finisterre sits quietly in her slip, fully prepared, nothing out of place, lines coiled just so, ready to get under way on a moment’s notice. And then she blows everyone else out of the water with another victory race out to the Rock.</p>
<p>When it is done right, it shows.</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Bob. I hope you and Beth have a great summer!</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Enjoy these other boating and cruising articles by Bill Parlatore:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="../../../../news/taking-on-the-great-loop">Taking Of The Great Loop</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/tips-for-cruising-south-or-preparing-for-the-great-loop">Preparing For The Great Loop</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-dawn-of-the-paperless-helm">Dawn Of The Paperless Helm</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/letting-go-but-still-in-control">Letting Go But Still In Control</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/learning-to-handle-a-new-boat">Learning To Handle A New Boat</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/improving-the-user-experience">Improving The User Experience</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-paradigm-shift-in-cruising" target="_blank">A Paradigm Shift In Cruising</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/consider-buddy-boating">Consider Buddy Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-matter-of-staying-safe-while-boating">A Matter Of Staying Safe While Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/i-am-going-cruising-should-i-carry-a-gun">Should I Carry A Gun While Cruising?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-boaters-three-to-five-year-plan">A Boater's 3-to-5 Year Plan</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/boat-tools-how-do-you-keep-yours">Boat Tools: A 4-Part Series</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-bahamas-caribbean-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Bahamas</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-alaskan-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Alaska</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-evolution-of-the-trawler-yacht">The Evolution Of The Trawler Yacht</a></li>
</ul> |
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<p><em>This is update #20 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>We left Sidonia and Fred as they left Alabama on their way to Florida waters. Sticking to their original plan, they were going to complete their Loop adventure when they arrived in Tarpon Springs.</p>
<p>Despite the unexpected delays of the bent prop and strut, they were still on track to complete the Great Loop in time to celebrate Christmas with family at home.</p>
<p>Most cruisers “cross their wake” after completing the Great Loop at one time. However, Sidonia and Fred had previously cruised along the U.S. East Coast on their large trawler, so did not need to come all the way back around to Annapolis to complete their Loop.</p>
<p>We pick up their story on November 16th, as they enter Florida waters. Repairs to their prop and bent strut were finally successful and the Nimbus was back in tip-top shape.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We passed into Florida with no robotic voice saying, ‘Welcome to Florida.’ Several dolphins swam and jumped beside us, playing in our bow wave. That was about it.</p>
<p>“Once out of the narrow canal, the GICW opened to a wide expanse. Because of the windy conditions, the water was also quite choppy. We had no idea that portions of the GICW were so open, unlike the East Coast ICW. We passed beautiful, white sand dunes and then lots and lots of houses packed tightly together.</p>
<p>“We were quite surprised when we approached Destin Harbor. The docks were crammed with fishing charter boats, jet skis, and motorized tiki huts for rent and more. It must be a zoo during the season. We covered 68 miles today and anchored in the harbor for the night.</p>
<p>“The next morning, we left Destin Harbor, and ran for about three hours before stopping in Panama City for fuel. The fuel dock at St. Andrews Marina was on the rustic side and self-service to boot. After Fred filled the port-side tank, he found he couldn’t get diesel to come out of the nozzle when he tried to fill the starboard tank. An attendant came out of the building to look. He determined the nozzle was broken.</p>
<p>“Thank goodness there was another diesel pump on the fuel dock where they could drag a hose over to the boat, or we would have been leaning heavily to one side until we could find another fuel stop. And there didn’t seem to be an abundance of marinas in the bay.</p>
<p>“The scenery along the GICW from Panama City to Apalachicola changed pretty dramatically. The number of houses along the banks dwindled until there weren’t any and the land took on the appearance of a swamp. There were lots of dead trees and marsh grasses as well as trees that had fallen into the water. Still no alligators, though. I’m sure they don’t like the cold any more than we do.</p>
<p>“When we arrived at Apalachicola Marina we were more than a bit surprised. There was room for only three boats our size (40 to 45 feet) but there was power available. But there was no office, dock attendant, fuel pumps, bathrooms, or anything else. Just the remains of the old city icehouse. We checked in and paid by phone, and never saw a soul.</p>
<p>“By the time we were checked in and tied up, it was too cold and windy to venture into town, so we stayed on the boat.</p>
<p>“By mid-morning the next day the sun came out. So, we hauled our bikes up onto the dock and rode into town, which was really only two or three blocks away. We found many nice shops and we wandered in and out of several of them. We then had a nice lunch at The Owl.</p>
<p>“After lunch, we went to the John Gorrie Museum State Park. Dr. Gorrie moved to Apalachicola in 1833 and, in addition to his medical practice, he served as postmaster, council member, bank president, and more.</p>
<p><img title="John Gorrie Museum" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/gorrie-museum.jpg?cb=1BDAAA1E-D795-AE87-CE6126BB7F4C912A" alt="John Gorrie Museum" width="800" height="424" /></p>
<p>He also researched tropical diseases, particularly yellow fever. During a yellow fever outbreak in 1841, in order to help cool feverish patients, he devised a cooling system for a room in the clinic that moved air through a bucket of ice hanging from the ceiling over the patient. The air then flowed through a hole in the floor.</p>
<p>“In those days, ice came from the frozen northern lakes and stored in ice houses. Dr. Gorrie attempted to make an artificial ice machine (below).</p>
<p><img title="ice machine" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/old-ice-machine.jpg?cb=1BDAAA1A-FF73-9970-A134E6381F531335" alt="ice machine" width="800" height="807" /></p>
<p>By 1850, his machine was able to produce blocks of ice the size of bricks. Unfortunately, he was never able to raise enough money to manufacture his ice-making machine. But Dr. Gorrie is still considered by some to be the ‘Father of Refrigeration and Air Conditioning.’</p>
<p>“We next rode over to the Raney House Museum. The Greek Revival style house was built in 1836 by David Raney, a wealthy cotton broker. A charming docent gave us a guided tour of the house, which exhibits 19th century furniture and artifacts.”</p>
<p>(Below: A Fish net Christmas tree in Apalachicola.)</p>
<p><img title="fish net christmas tree" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fish-net-christmas-tree.jpg?cb=1BDAAA16-039E-CE18-9FFF5928135DB192" alt="fish net christmas tree" width="800" height="828" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>On Saturday, November 19, the couple left Apalachicola on their way south. Passing Carrabelle, they found the Gulf of Mexico was not as calm as predicted. They had to slow down as the boat charged into increasingly larger waves. After beating into it for almost an hour, they made the wise decision to turn around and retrace their steps back to Carrabelle to wait for better conditions.</p>
<p>They got a slip at the Moorings of Carrabelle, where they would stay for several days, until conditions improved. Sometimes it pays to be a prudent mariner.</p>
<p><img title="Carrabelle" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/carrabelle-florida-sign.jpg?cb=1BDAAA0E-E939-8B4A-C1C71D79DE0B0809" alt="Carrabelle" width="800" height="432" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>“One feels a little wimpish having to turn back, knowing the boat could handle it. But we would have been in those nasty seas for at least three more hours, and we didn’t want to.</p>
<p>“Our friends, who live in Gainesville, were planning to meet us in Steinhatchee. I was able to text them when we turned around to let them know we weren’t going to make it. They said they would drive to Carrabelle to meet us, which was awfully nice of them since it’s a three-and-a-half-hour drive.</p>
<p>“Doug and Leslie arrived around 4:00. We had a very enjoyable visit on the boat for over an hour and then went up the street to The Fisherman’s Wife restaurant for a pretty good fried seafood dinner.</p>
<p><img title="seafood dinner" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/oysters-at-hole-in-the-wall.jpg?cb=1BDAAA12-F01A-B845-68EF4223BC2DF56A" alt="seafood dinner" width="800" height="818" /></p>
<p>Since Doug and Leslie had opted not to spend the night, they headed home to Gainesville after dinner. We were quite overwhelmed that they would make such a long drive to visit with us for such a short time.</p>
<p>“The next morning, we waited until it warmed a bit and then went back to the Fisherman’s Wife for a burger. Shortly after lunch, though, my stomach began to act up. We didn’t do anything the rest of the day and I barely slept all night.</p>
<p>“By Monday, I was still not feeling well and so I stayed in bed most of the day. Fred took a walk and tried a Korean food stand for lunch. He wasn’t thrilled but said it was okay.</p>
<p>“Where in the world is the Florida we visited previously? I was still not feeling very well and still no appetite. It’s been more than two days since I’ve had more than a nibble of food. At first, I thought it was the burger I had for lunch the other day but am more inclined to think it was a stomach bug.</p>
<p>“Fred took a walk down to the hardware store and bought a new coffee pot. Our Keurig is being very temperamental and we’re afraid it’s going to give up the ghost. We can’t do without our morning coffee.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>There were other Looper couples waiting in Carrabelle, so they got together that evening for drinks at Harry’s Bar. Some had the latest information regarding conditions for the Gulf crossing. With what they knew at the time, Sidonia and Fred decided to leave the next day, while others chose to hold off for another day, and plan Thursday for their departure.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Wednesday, the weather and wind forecast still looked passable, with two-foot seas or less. That was about the best we could hope for, so off we went at 7:30 in the morning.</p>
<p>“Once again, the first hour was fine but then it got a little rougher. Ozzie meowed just once and then hid under my seat. This time, however, it didn’t seem as bad, and we were able to do 22 knots. We went pretty close to straight east until we got within about five miles of the other side of the Gulf. We were about 20 miles north of Steinhatchee before we turned south. The seas calmed down to a little chop and Fred pushed the throttles up to 25 knots.</p>
<p>“Being in the boatyard for three weeks really put us behind in our plans. While we did not have a firm schedule (which we never do), we still wanted to be home around the first of December. So, although we originally planned to visit Steinhatchee, we kept going.</p>
<p>“We began to see crab trap buoys everywhere. The little buoy markers used in this area are so small they are hard to see in the chop, especially when they are black. It seemed like a slalom course as we threaded around these buoys at 25 knots. But we kept going until we reached Crystal River.</p>
<p><img title="our route crossing the gulf of mexico" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/route-across-gulf-of-mexico.jpg?cb=1BDAAA0A-B28C-C2C0-BA3708132C899951" alt="our route crossing the gulf of mexico" width="623" height="850" /></p>
<p>“The entrance to Crystal River starts a little over two miles out and we navigated between many markers before we entered the river. Then it is another five or more miles to King’s Bay where there are several anchorages, fuel dock, a town, and lots of pontoon boats for manatee tours.</p>
<p><img title="manatee in crystal river" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/manatee.jpg?cb=1BDAAA06-9791-2D77-DFF785C4412054B5" alt="manatee in crystal river" width="800" height="851" /></p>
<p>“The area is very pretty with stretches of marsh with tall palms but also many houses. There are little bays and inlets and abundant bird life with white ibis, anhingas, great egrets, brown pelicans, ospreys, fish crows, bald eagles, and great flocks of coots.</p>
<p>“In winter, some 800 manatees gather here to enjoy the warmer water of King’s Bay’s 70 natural hot springs. It is one of the few places that one can swim among them and throngs of people come to do just that.</p>
<p>‘We topped off our fuel tanks and then anchored out. It had been a long day, running 141 miles over the course of seven hours. I finally felt well enough to eat some dinner but was still a bit wobbly.</p>
<p>“On Thanksgiving morning, we spent the morning calling family and friends and wishing all a happy Thanksgiving. After lunch, we launched the dinghy and went on a manatee hunt. We first went down into the area where the Plantation Resort is located and looked around for almost an hour with no luck.</p>
<p>“We then came back out through the anchorage and entered an inlet leading to Three Sisters Spring. We went very slowly, scanning the water not only to keep from hitting one but, of course, wanting to see one. We spent some time with manatees in southwest Florida about 14 years ago. They came right up to our boat in the marina and hung around for a couple of days. I got in the water and touched them. It seems that most people that come here use wetsuits to swim where the manatees usually gather, but we just wanted to look at them from the dinghy.</p>
<p><img title="three sisters spring" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/three-sisters-spring.jpg?cb=1BDAAA01-FC66-FF76-D4CD02CE6E2D9EB2" alt="three sisters spring" width="800" height="782" /></p>
<p>“After motoring in some distance, we saw signs posted that said ‘Quiet Zone’, so we turned off our outboard and Fred rowed. We had still not seen any manatees. We eventually came to a place where lots of kayaks were tied to the bank and people were either putting on or taking off wetsuits. They were coming and going into a little channel that led to a small lagoon of beautiful, clear green water. No watercraft were allowed to enter.</p>
<p>“Through the trees on the bank, we could see a nice boardwalk that followed the edge of the basin, so we tied to the bank, scrambled up and walked over to the boardwalk.</p>
<p>“Just as we were climbing up to the walk, a female park ranger appeared and asked, “How did you get in here?” We told her and she said that we were not allowed to access this area from the water today and would have to leave. She offered no explanation but was pretty adamant that we go now.</p>
<p>“I started rowing us back and before long, Fred spotted a manatee. Actually, it was two of them but one was much closer to the surface, way larger than the other and covered in barnacles. They hovered near our dinghy a minute or so and then with a slight flap of their large, rounded mermaid-like tails, they slowly glided off toward the lagoon. We moved on in the opposite direction and saw more of them coming toward us. They appeared in pairs, threesomes, and foursomes, and we counted 13 of them before we were out of the little channel.</p>
<p>“For our Thanksgiving dinner, we had baked beans with hot dogs. We’ve missed many Thanksgivings during our travels over the years, so it wasn’t at all depressing. We’ll make up for it at Christmas.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The next day the couple continued south and found dense fog would be with them most of the way down the coast to Tarpon Springs. Tarpon Springs had special meaning for them. First, Sidonia was keen to have one of the gyro sandwiches that are famous in the area.</p>
<p>But more important, it was their official end of their Great Loop.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We had been to Tarpon Springs on our boat several years ago, and then cruised all the way up to Maine. One does not have to do The Loop in one continuous trip.</p>
<p>“After leaving Tarpon Springs, we were back in the ICW, with all its speed zones. It was also very crowded with all the holiday vacationers taking boat rides. Even when we could speed up, we would be tossed around from the other speeding boats.</p>
<p>“Eventually, we reached an opening and went back into the Gulf where we continued to Bradenton. It was another long day of 108 miles and eight hours.</p>
<p>“It is clear Christmas is coming, with all the Christmas lights strung along the waterfront surrounding the marina. If we hadn’t been so tired when we got in, we would have enjoyed taking a walk and seeing what there was to see.</p>
<p>“The fog this morning was thicker than yesterday, so we waited until about 10:30, when visibility was much improved. We cruised for a couple of hours and then stopped at Cabbage Key for lunch. We knew it had been in the path of Hurricane Ian but that it had reopened. Except for the dock being torn up, with broken power stands and trees with missing branches, the inn looked the same as it had in 2008.</p>
<p><img title="damaged dock" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/damaged-dock.jpg?cb=1BDAA9F1-0153-0B68-FCD64BE252218C52" alt="damaged dock" width="800" height="848" /></p>
<p>It was tricky docking as the long pier was destroyed and we had to squeeze into a tiny slip.</p>
<p>“Cabbage Key was first developed in 1936 by the Rinehart family who paid $2,000 for the property. The inn and several cottages opened in 1944 and has since changed hands a few more times. The inn is renowned for its ‘dollar bill’ room. Patrons tape dollar bills to the walls and there are layers of bills from floor to ceiling. Some bills are signed, and others have little notes written on them. About once a year, all the bills are taken down and the money given to charities. Last year, over $20,000 was collected.</p>
<p><img title="cabbage key dollar room" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/cabbage-key-dollar-bill-room.jpg?cb=1BDAA9F5-E9F2-A65D-02F3FB807B52C6F8" alt="cabbage key dollar room" width="800" height="901" /></p>
<p>“After lunch we continued on our way and anchored for the night in a residential area near Naples. We were surrounded by multi-million-dollar houses and boats. We traveled 118 miles today.</p>
<p>“On Sunday, November 27, we hoped to stop for lunch at the Rod and Gun Club in Everglades City, another spot we had enjoyed before. We were very disappointed, however, to find that even with a draft of only 3-1/2 feet, we couldn’t get in the channel at low tide. As we didn’t want to wait until high tide, we continued on our way.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The couple expected to continue down the Florida Bay side of Florida from the Everglades, approaching the Florida Keys later in the day. There are several places where one can pass under Route 1 (Overseas Highway) that connects the islands, which brings you out to the Atlantic side of the Keys. They chose to spend what would be their last night on the Great Loop on Duck Key, at the Hawks Cay Resort in Marathon.</p>
<p>If the weather looks good, from there it makes sense to stay out in the ocean and run at speed up the east side of the Keys, passing Key Largo and Coral Gables on the way to Miami and points north. Their eventual destination was Bradford Marine in Fort Lauderdale.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We stopped for the night at Hawks Cay Resort in the Florida Keys.</p>
<p><img title="hawks cay resort sign" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/hawks-cay-resort.jpg?cb=1BDAA9ED-96DD-2F2E-BBAD2BAEC2EC518D" alt="hawks cay resort sign" width="800" height="536" /></p>
<p>Not too much had changed since we were here last, and one can still swim with dolphins. The last big hurricane that hit here destroyed the resort’s store and a new one is now under construction. After the storm, they found a 40-foot boat in the lagoon, and no one knows where it came from. In order to get into the lagoon, the boat had to have gone over two breakwaters. We’d like to know how they got it out of there.</p>
<p>“Traveling 100 or more miles each day is tiring so we had planned to take a break and spend two nights here. But after checking the weather forecast, we reconsidered and decided one night would have to do. Tuesday’s weather did not look good at all. Winds of 20+ knots from the northeast were predicted, which would rough up the Atlantic, our preferred route rather than staying in the ICW.</p>
<p>“By Monday, November 28, we felt like a horse headed to the barn. The closer we got to the end of our trip, the faster we wanted to get there. If we hadn’t spent time here in the past, I’m sure we would be taking our time and doing some exploring. We fueled up for the last time and made our way out the long, narrow channel of Duck Key into the Atlantic. The seas were about as calm as they could be. There are still lobster trap buoys everywhere even in depths of 200 or more feet.</p>
<p>“About the time we slowed down to eat lunch, the tall, white buildings of Miami came into view. Not more than an hour later, we entered the Port of Everglades at Fort Lauderdale. We made a very slow trip up the New River as we followed a huge yacht with a towboat at either end. It gave us time to enjoy the river again and see the many mansions and yachts along the banks.</p>
<p>“We ended our 5,000-mile Great Loop at Bradford Marine Boatyard. There was no fanfare upon our arrival except for what we could muster up ourselves.”</p>
<p><img title="final leg of great loop trip" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/last-leg-of-trip.jpg?cb=1BDAA9E8-E043-502A-3341B60A14DE7903" alt="final leg of great loop trip" width="589" height="726" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Their plans were to get their truck back from storage, pack up their possessions and clean out the Nimbus Coupe, as they prepared for the trip home to the West Coast. They wanted to be home with family during the holidays and losing several weeks for repairs made their time in Florida necessarily short.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We flew back to Annapolis to get our truck and drove back to Fort Lauderdale. The next day, we were both flat in bed with Covid and stayed there for several days. Fred recovered soon enough to start packing up and moving things off the boat.</p>
<p>“While I recuperated, I had plenty of time to think about our Great Loop trip. As hard as I analyzed it, I couldn’t think of anything I would have wanted to do differently.</p>
<p>“The <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> was the perfect boat for us. Not only did it have the comfort and equipment we needed/wanted but the speed that allowed us to do our Loop in six-and-a-half months without feeling rushed.</p>
<p>“We thoroughly enjoyed every section of the route, but our favorite areas were the Hudson River/Erie Canal, Trent-Severn Canal, Georgian Bay, and the Door Peninsula/Wisconsin coastline.</p>
<p>“We had mixed feelings when we left ‘Last Item’ with a ‘For Sale’ sign hanging on her bow. We were looking forward to being home again, but sad to seeing the end of such a wonderful experience.</p>
<p>“This had been (at the time) the Last Item on my bucket list and Fred said he was determined to make it happen. And he did.”</p>
<p><img title="nimbus boat for sale" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nimbus-boat-for-sale.jpg?cb=1BDAA9E4-E38E-225D-15140A7D8097BF9A" alt="nimbus boat for sale" width="800" height="497" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>We so enjoyed following Sidonia and Fred on their travels around the popular Great Loop. The speed of the boat allowed them to accomplish what others spend a year or more doing, and their lack of drama with the boat allowed them to fully enjoy the experience.</p>
<p>For so many would-be travelers, taking a boat on an adventure such as this makes for memories of a lifetime. It is not difficult yet is still a learning experience for all those who choose to explore our great country by boat.</p>
<p>Congratulations, Sidonia and Fred! Until next time…</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising Into The Tenn-Tomm</a></p>
<p>Update #18: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-the-gulf-of-mexico">On To The Gulf Of Mexico</a></p>
<p>Update #19: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-waiting-on-parts">Waiting On Parts</a></p>
<p>Update #20: This post.</p> |
Last Item: The End Of Our Great Loop |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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<p>A broker friend shared a file with me he recently discovered. It is the journal of his parents, who did the Great Loop in 1998-1999 (it was called the Great Circle back then). They were experienced boat people who owned a boat dealership in Virginia. Dan knew I would get a kick out of his folks’ trip notes, as they traveled aboard their late ‘80s Grand Banks 49. The boat was the top of the line of the brand’s dependable diesel cruisers. One of my all-time favorites.</p>
<p>What I found most interesting is how different <a href="../../../../news/do-you-keep-a-logbook-while-cruising">their log</a> read when compared to a diary of today’s Loopers or others running the ICW down to Florida, or perhaps traveling from the Gateway to the San Juans up to SE Alaska.</p>
<p>One might argue that the boat was already 10 years old when they did the trip. While I grant you that, the more relevant point to me is that the technology of those days can’t really compare to the refined, interacting systems of today, which offer outstanding reliability. Reading this journal just proves how far we’ve come in all the ways that make for a successful and satisfying trip.</p>
<p><em>(Below: An example of a classic Grand Banks 49.)</em></p>
<p><img title="grand banks 49" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/classic-grand-banks-49.jpg?cb=B284DEAC-9ED4-4ABB-E5D6AB6BB198E973" alt="grand banks 49" width="800" height="430" /></p>
<p>From the very start, leaving the peace and serenity of Virginia’s York River, the couple had to deal with issues on their boat. They traveled in company with another couple on their <a href="../../../../Used-Yachts-For-Sale/grand-banks-yachts">Grand Banks Yacht</a>, and they also had their share of issues. To be clear, a couple of GBs heading north together was about as good as it got back 20+ years ago, the quality of engineering, construction, and systems second to none at the time.</p>
<p>They had problems with mechanical throttle cables. We have modern electronic controls, with none of the issues surrounding loose set screws, binding cables, or things coming apart from continuous vibration. The two engines on the Grand Banks were no doubt a couple of 3208 Cats with turbos, the standard of the day. Strong, reliable, and generally easy to keep running. But even those venerable diesels are no match for today’s engines that self-diagnose and monitor performance to a high degree, not to mention produce a huge reduction in emissions.</p>
<p>Running up the coast off New Jersey, in conditions typical even today, the sediment in the boats’ fuel tanks got stirred into suspension from the boat’s motion in the seas. This is the very reason fuel polishing is considered so vital in today’s cruising<a href="../../../../used-trawler-yachts-for-sale/"> trawlers</a> and <a href="../../../../used-motor-yachts-for-sale/">motoryachts</a>. They experienced a poor-running starboard engine on that run, apparently from clogged fuel filters. But it turned out to be a problem with the engines’ synchronizer, causing one of the engines to stumble and run rough. They did not find this out until later when they switched off the synchronizer on the approach around Sandy Hook at the top of the New Jersey coast. It would go on the list of growing mechanical and electrical issues they encountered almost each day. None were showstoppers, but were just more things to troubleshoot, repair, or replace.</p>
<p>The ship’s generator had a fuel leak, caused by a leaking lift pump. The electrical system had gremlins come and go, and even the marvelous Northstar LORAN unit and GPS plotter had trouble communicating data.</p>
<p>Their buddy boat faired about the same, with one thing after another keeping the owners working through an ongoing punch list. Again, none were terrible enough to threaten the trip, and were considered just part of what cruising was all about back then. Replacing one of the head’s macerator pumps was considered part of the day’s activities, fit in along with stepping ashore and exploring a new town along the Loop. The women went exploring for part of the day while the guys stayed aboard fixing things. That sounds pretty typical for the time, and like many of the travel stories we published back then. It was a rare day that goes by without something needing attention.</p>
<p>None of these efforts compared to the grief they experienced when they got hit with lightning, which killed the Autohelm autopilot, the sensors for the engine gauges and other instruments, and destroyed the LORAN unit. Anyone unfortunate to have suffered even an indirect lightning strike knows there is nothing one can do…except plan on the expensive and time-consuming replacement of fuses, electronics, and funky little problems that may not surface until much later in the trip.</p>
<p><em>(Below: A circuitboard in a boat's electronics is fried after being struck by lightning.)</em></p>
<p><img title="circuitboard electronics on boat struck by lightning" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/circtuit-board-damaged-by-lightning.jpg?cb=B3165F08-FA58-3B90-C669CD8336075412" alt="circuitboard electronics on boat struck by lightning" width="800" height="534" /></p>
<p>Despite all this, the two couples had a fabulous time on their <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">Great Loop</a> adventure. That was absolutely clear in the pages of the journal. There was excitement and thrills about so many things. It was just “normal” to also maintain an ongoing list of things to take care of during the trip.</p>
<p>Even getting parts was an issue. Replacement parts sent to the boat proved a lot more problematic than it is today. How they were able to eventually get these parts, totally dependent on where they were along the route, seems downright medieval compared to the One-Click experience we have today.</p>
<p>I compare these experiences with our friends currently doing the same trip, or some other extended cruise, but on contemporary boats. Everything is so much better now, more reliable, and easier to troubleshoot. Again, one might try to make the argument that the Grand Banks was an older boat and therefore more prone to issues and failures solely because of its age. But these events happened over 20 years ago, not today. Obviously, anyone cruising this same vintage trawler today will likely have lots of issues, compounded by age. But back then it had more to do with current technology of the time, not the age of the systems and parts.</p>
<p>These things were expected, so anyone who went cruising just expected to spend time as a ship’s engineer and troubleshooter. It was part of the cruising experience.</p>
<p>I compared this to how we made road trips by car back then. There was always a certain understanding that simply jumping into a car and driving cross country was not likely to be trouble-free. Such a trip meant we needed to do some level of preparation before any major road trip, from updated maintenance of the engine to checking the condition and pressures of the tires. We had national organizations dedicated to support America’s road warriors. They were there to assist along the way. Remember Triptiks and those maintenance guidelines from AAA? And every new car came with directories of dealers and service locations in the glove box.</p>
<p>Today, most cars don’t even carry spare tires. That was unthinkable a couple of decades ago.</p>
<p>I recently “delivered” a car to friends who just moved back to Michigan from <a href="../../../../yacht-sales-and-brokerage-in-annapolis-maryland">Annapolis</a>. A friend and I offered to drive their car out to Chelsea from Annapolis. I drove their hybrid Ford, while my friend followed along in his older Lexus SUV. It isn’t driven much these days and has some issues. But we thought it good to drive with its AWD, as we would be driving through the Pennsylvania mountains in the early winter.</p>
<p>The trip out to Michigan went without a problem, and the drive back was equally uneventful. Which is surprising to me on some level. We encountered plenty of snowy conditions on the turnpikes through the mountains, and I found the Lexus had a dashboard full of red and orange warning lights. I have never before driven a car any distance with so many warning lights. It was unsettling. We covered 1,100 miles over those two days.</p>
<p>Yet, in contrast to travel back in the old days, our only valid worry was running out of windshield washer fluid. Think about that for a second. A car sits untouched for weeks on end, then travels over 1,000 miles without a second thought. Pretty amazing.</p>
<p>The experience of <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Sidonia and Fred on Last Item</a>, the <a href="../../../../new-yachts-for-sale/Nimbus-405-Coupe">Nimbus 405 Coupe</a> on their Great Loop, has been trouble-free compared to the experience with the Grand Banks 49. I don’t believe anything went wrong on the Nimbus beyond noticing a minor oil leak that was fixed during routine maintenance. The bent prop they had was not the fault of the boat or its systems.</p>
<p><em>(Below: Sidonia on their Nimbus 405 during their Great Loop Trip at "The Big Chute".)</em></p>
<p> <img title="nimbus boat on great loop trip" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nimbus-boat-on-the-great-loop.jpg?cb=B3EC8B55-BB27-595A-D067CFAD695A4D00" alt="nimbus boat on great loop trip" width="800" height="456" /></p>
<p>What is significant to me is that every element of the Nimbus cruiser is the latest and current technology. Electronic, integrated, self-diagnostic. With few mechanical linkages to work loose…if any.</p>
<p>This is noteworthy.</p>
<p>The daily routines once required of the designated ship’s engineer (usually the husband, but not always) are no longer required. Today, we should expect to simply get the boat tied up at day’s end and walk into town to check out what is going on, maybe enjoy an ice cream cone on the way back. For the most part, I’ll bet most couples are far more interested in seeing the sights than adhering to that saying that “Cruising is fixing the boat in exotic locations.”</p>
<p>When you take ownership of a yacht like a Northern Marine, an Endurance, Regency, Nimbus, or most any of the modern cruising choices out there, I think it is appropriate to raise your expectations. There will always be issues, of course, as boats traveling in open water will always operate in a somewhat uncontrolled environment. But still, it is fine to now expect a higher level of reliability from one’s boat, allowing the crew to enjoy the travel “experience” without thinking about what will break next, or how difficult it will be to receive parts.</p>
<p>If all scheduled maintenance is followed on a newer, modern yacht, and pre-trip tasks are done, such as ensuring clean fuel in clean tanks before leaving the dock, there is every reason to expect a marvelous time with minimal difficulties.</p>
<p>And not assume you’ll need to roll up your sleeves and get down and dirty with rags and grease, instead of trying a new aperitif in an outdoor café with your partner among the sights and sounds of somewhere new.</p> |
Look How Far We’ve Come: A Look Back At The Great Loop |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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<p><em>This is update #19 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>When we left Sidonia and Fred on the Nimbus Coupe, they were at Saunders Marine Center in Orange Beach, Alabama. They arrived several days earlier, with plans to replace the damaged propeller from a grounding earlier in their trip. Unfortunately, with the boat out of the water and blocked for the repair, the mechanics found not only a bent propeller, but also a bent shaft strut.</p>
<p><img title="nimbus boat getting service" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/boat-service.jpg?cb=0A732D4D-ED71-D2C5-2726912A1D2093D7" alt="nimbus boat getting service" width="800" height="445" /></p>
<p>A new strut was promptly order by Seattle Yachts from <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus Boats</a> in Sweden, to be shipped by air and trucked directly to the boatyard. It seemed a three or four-day delay would no doubt be added to their travel itinerary, an estimate that might be considered reasonable in a perfect world of global commerce.</p>
<p>But these days are not reasonable. To expect a quick turnaround is pure folly, as it does not take into account the inevitable supply chain interruptions that have become a fact-of-life. Very few transactions go the way of Amazon’s Overnight or Next Day service. And, to be fair, holdups of any kind are part of the delays associated with normal cruising, without blaming any specific reason or portion of the shipping process. It doesn’t matter if it is a starter motor, an alternator, or a propeller shaft strut.</p>
<p>This is one reason why some cruisers choose to take advantage of unexpected delays and leave the boat safely tucked away for a couple of weeks to go home to visit family and friends, or perhaps take care of some business.</p>
<p>For upbeat, positively-motivated couples like Sidonia and Fred, however, it is a great opportunity to extend and expand their local sightseeing. They know they will likely not travel this way again, so they simply take it one day at a time, while enjoying living aboard a modern cruising boat with all the comforts of home.</p>
<p>They may spend their day playing tennis or golf, taking long walks and bike rides around the area, go to see the latest movie, or visit out-of-the-way historical sites that most will pass right by. And a rental car makes all the difference when looking at new and interesting side trips.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Sunday October 30, the rain was still with us, with a couple of downpours, but nowhere near the wind of previous days. When the weather finally let up later in the morning, we put our bikes in the car and decided to drive to the Grand Hotel at Point Clear.</p>
<p><img title="grand hotel at point clear" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/grand-hotel-in-point-clear-alabama.jpg?cb=0A732D51-C791-A9BA-5FA02CE2223F24BD" alt="grand hotel at point clear" width="800" height="415" /></p>
<p>“The front of the hotel is said to have an unobstructed view of Mobile Bay, with beautiful landscaping all around the vast grounds. The most impressive of this landscaping are the wonderful old oak trees with their sprawling limbs all covered in tiny ferns and dripping with Spanish moss.</p>
<p><img title="old oak trees" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/oak-trees.jpg?cb=0A732D55-0119-D8A2-FBB09534C347B6CB" alt="old oak trees" width="800" height="507" /></p>
<p>“A modest hotel was first built on this site in 1820. The Grand Hotel opened in 1847 and later served as a Confederate hospital during the Civil War. Three hundred soldiers are buried in the Confederate cemetery on the hotel grounds. After the war, there was a fire which damaged the hotel, but it was rebuilt in 1875. By 1941, the structure had further deteriorated and was rebuilt yet again. During WWII, the facility served as part of the training base for the Army’s amphibious landings.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>From humble beginnings as a two-story hotel with 40 rooms, today the Grand Hotel Golf Resort & Spa is part of Marriott Corporation and takes full advantage of its 550-acre real estate to offer world-class accommodations and amenities. With over 400 rooms and suites, the sprawling hotel and resort offers 37,000 square feet of meeting rooms, two 18-hole championship golf courses, 10 tennis courts, 10 pickleball courts, and a 36-slip marina.</p>
<p>It is certainly worth a visit for anyone who happens to be passing through the area and decides to get some work done on their yacht at a nearby boatyard.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We also drove into the city of Fairhope, a very popular resort community. Fairhope began as a small community in 1894 when a group of like-minded folks settled there. Their belief was that there should be no other taxes than a single land tax. According to legend, one of the group said the new colony only had a ‘fair hope’ of success.</p>
<p>“We rode our bikes around the picturesque town and through some of its pretty residential areas. Since it was Sunday, unfortunately, many of the shops were closed.</p>
<p>“As our waiting game continued, on Monday we decided to play golf again, so I called our golf buddy Vince to see if he could join us. He not only joined us, he brought along his adult son, Matt. We had another enjoyable round and Vince asked if he could take us to dinner on Friday if we were still in town. We told him we would certainly enjoy that, but rather hoped we will be out of the yard, back in the water, and on our way again by then.</p>
<p>“Thankfully, as we continued to wait for our parts, there is always something interesting to do in this part of the Alabama coast. Not too far away is the Pensacola Naval Air Station, home of the famed Blue Angels. The team has regularly scheduled practices two or three times a week, so we decided to watch one of the sessions.</p>
<p><img title="blue angels" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/blue-angels.jpg?cb=0A732D59-DA35-1104-3A0FCB4FAA0F7DCE" alt="blue angels" width="800" height="488" /></p>
<p>“We drove east to Pensacola, but were turned back at the gate as we don’t have military identification. We were very disappointed. In addition to missing out on the narrated viewing of the Angels practice, there is an interactive museum that would have been fun and interesting. Instead, we parked right near the base entrance gates along with several other cars and people who were there to watch. The practice lasted for 50 minutes and was exciting as always.</p>
<p>“We then drove into the town of Pensacola and walked around town until we got hungry. We found a restaurant on the water called The Fish House. When we arrived, the street leading up to the restaurant was lined with signs for Ron DeSantis, and people were flocking toward the entrance. As we climbed the steps to the restaurant, we were asked if we were there for the rally but we said we were just there to have lunch. I started to make my way through the crowd but a security person pleasantly asked to search my purse and person. After he waved a wand over us, we made it into the restaurant and enjoyed a very good lunch.</p>
<p>“About the time we finished lunch, Ron DeSantis arrived. There were so many people in the relatively small space outside the restaurant we only got a fleeting glimpse of him. We left the crowded scene before the speeches began.</p>
<p>“The next day was Wednesday November 2, and our propellers are now ready and balanced. We hope the shaft strut arrives today from Sweden as we’ve been in the boatyard for a week now and are anxious to get back in the water.</p>
<p>“With nothing else on our schedule, we got a tee time at Gulf Shores so hustled over for a game.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The inevitable red tape of international shipping would take its toll on the couple and their schedule, forcing them to remain at Saunders Marine Center for longer than they anticipated. The physical shipping of the strut was not the only issue, but also the documentation, tracking information, and required customs paper trail.</p>
<p>As most cruisers find out, paperwork becomes almost more important than the physical part. Ask anyone who has had to not only order new parts, but also send in the old one to have it rebuilt, such as a starter or alternator.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“With no date available to us for its delivery, we decided to drive to Biloxi, Mississippi. Our two-hour drive passed through Pascagoula and then along the shore of the Gulf, which was a very pretty drive. We first went to the Jefferson Davis Memorial Library and then, nearby Beauvoir House where Davis, former President of the Confederacy, lived following the Civil War. Prior to the conflict, Jefferson Davis, a West Point graduate, was a senator from Mississippi and instrumental in the creation of the Smithsonian Institute.</p>
<p><em>(Below: The home of Jefferson Davis.)</em></p>
<p><img title="home of jefferson davis" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/home-of-jefferson-davis.jpg?cb=0A732D5D-9D0F-F69E-7C514FBDFB36BAA1" alt="home of jefferson davis" width="800" height="439" /></p>
<p>“Sara Dorsey, widow of the estate owner and friend of the Davis family, offered the guest house to Jefferson Davis as a place to live and write his memoirs. When Sara passed away, she bequeathed the estate to Davis. He lived there with his wife, Varina, and one of his daughters for 13 years until his death in 1889.</p>
<p><em>(Below: A headstone marking where Jefferson Davis' dog is buried.)</em></p>
<p><img title="Headstone of Jefferson Davis dog" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/headstone-of-jefferson-davis-dog.jpg?cb=0A732D61-F39E-A131-6BA6FFBBD2F54B3E" alt="Headstone of Jefferson Davis dog" width="800" height="458" /></p>
<p>Varina later sold much of the estate to the Sons of Confederate Veterans, to house veterans and their widows and later as a memorial to her husband.</p>
<p><em>(Below: The funeral carriage that carried Jefferson Davis.)</em></p>
<p><img title="funeral carriage" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/funeral-carriage.jpg?cb=0A732D65-FFA2-14C0-06DA4E33CE6EBB66" alt="funeral carriage" width="800" height="505" /></p>
<p>“Following our tour, we went to the Beau Rivage Casino for lunch. It is a very attractive MGM hotel/casino right on the Gulf of Mexico. We had a nice lunch and didn’t lose any money as we didn’t do any gambling.</p>
<p>“The next day we finally got word that our strut arrived in New Orleans and should be coming by truck to the boatyard by Monday.</p>
<p>“So, we celebrated with a big breakfast at the 1950-themed restaurant, Sunliner Diner in Gulf Shores. Everything about it is reminiscent of the 1950s, from the music to the shapes of the glasses on the tables. Episodes of ‘I Love Lucy’ played on a screen in a back room and one of the booths began life as a Ford sedan from the 1950s. The staff serves authentic, old fashioned milkshakes and ice cream sodas, not exactly what we intended for first thing in the morning, but our breakfast and service were very good and the facility was immaculate.</p>
<p><img title="sunliner diner" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/sunliner-diner.jpg?cb=0A732D69-A919-2B73-0971550C6331BEA0" alt="sunliner diner" width="800" height="430" /></p>
<p>“We also used the idle time to play golf again at Gulf Shores. When we first played here, we saw a large, multi-colored squirrel with a huge, bushy tail and very long fingers and toes. It was unlike any squirrel we’ve ever seen. Vince told us it is an eastern fox squirrel.</p>
<p><img title="eastern fox squirrel" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/eastern-fox-squirrel.jpg?cb=0A732D6E-9F11-2831-7060912A6E8DFFC9" alt="eastern fox squirrel" width="800" height="536" /></p>
<p>As golf course squirrels often do, one came right over to the golf cart. It sat on its hind legs and waved its paws at us begging for a snack. After tossing it some peanuts, we drove on. It followed us and while we were hitting our balls, it climbed in the golf cart again looking for more food.</p>
<p>“We got back before it ran off with our bag of nuts.</p>
<p>“I later called Vince to say that we were still in town and would be free to get together for dinner. We met him and his wife, Dee, at Big Mike’s Steakhouse in Orange Beach early evening. We had such a great time we didn’t leave until about 9:00. The steaks were wonderful and the service excellent. We fought over the bill but Vince had sneakily taken care of it.</p>
<p><img title="dee and vince" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/dee-and-vince-with-the-last-item-crew.jpg?cb=0A732D72-FB27-1362-71B1179C8088D80C" alt="dee and vince" width="800" height="463" /></p>
<p>“Meeting and spending time with them has certainly been a highlight of our trip and definitely put a positive spin on our many days in the yard.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Over the next weekend, the couple stayed close to the boat. They watched the Army/Air Force football game, played more golf, and kept busy touring the area on their electric bikes.</p>
<p>Fred then got a call on Wednesday November 9, just as they were getting ready to play golf with Vince and Matt at Rock Creek Golf Club in Fairhope. The strut was in customs, and being held up for additional documentation. Things were getting close now, just waiting for paperwork to catch up with the physical part. Just a little more patience…</p>
<p><em>(Below: What the bent prop looked like.)</em></p>
<p><img title="bent prop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bent-prop.jpg?cb=0A732D7A-C889-6597-11D9AD76DA0E1F99" alt="bent prop" width="800" height="573" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Rock Creek Golf Course is a lovely course in a very upscale neighborhood. It is prettier than Gulf Shores Golf Course but a bit more challenging. We then drove to Jesse’s in Magnolia Springs. Jesse’s has been serving the area for 75 years and is described as casual, fine dining. They dry and wet age their beef on the premises. They do the same with their fish and are even experimenting with aging scallops. After our delicious lunch, the manager showed us the aging coolers and told us all about the process.</p>
<p>“We heard from Loral that some Loopers would be getting together for dinner that evening at a restaurant at The Wharf. We arrived first and arranged for a table for a large group and sat down.</p>
<p>When the first bunch arrived, we didn’t recognize anyone but they all seemed to know each other and asked us to change seats so they could all sit together. They didn’t seem interested in meeting us or any others. We ended up sitting at a separate table with Brian, Loral, and two other nice couples.</p>
<p>“This is the only time we have experienced Loopers being so cliquish.</p>
<p>“On November 11, we learned the proper papers had been received and our strut will be released from customs and shipped. Fred felt we would be better off picking it up ourselves. Who knows how many days it might take to get here by truck from New Orleans? We made plans to drive to New Orleans on Sunday, spend the night, pick up the part first thing and come home on Monday.</p>
<p>“We made the drive to New Orleans in under 3-1/2 hours. On the way, we stopped at Felix’s for lunch only to find they were closed on Sundays. We went to another restaurant across the street which was not nearly as good.</p>
<p>“We were in New Orleans eight years ago to meet a friend from Canada for his 70th birthday party. We stayed at the Hotel Monteleone where we stayed before. It is in the heart of Old New Orleans, about a block from Bourbon Street. We shared a delicious five-course dinner in the hotel as that was all they were serving that evening. By the time we finished, we weren’t much inclined to go out and stroll the streets.</p>
<p><em>(Below: View from the Hotel Monteleone.)</em></p>
<p><img title="view from the hotel" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/view-from-monteleone-hotel.jpg?cb=0A732D7E-946F-9649-E15863A4C7717F99" alt="view from the hotel" width="800" height="443" /></p>
<p>“Since we decided to come to New Orleans, we were very much looking forward to the wonderful beignets that the hotel serves for breakfast. We were also hoping to see the waitress we had back then as we asked about her last night and were told she still works here. Miss Kathy has worked here for 50 years now. She served our breakfasts every day when we were here before and, in addition to being a delightful person, brought us extra beignets every morning.</p>
<p>“Unfortunately, today was her day off.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The couple drove to the airport’s cargo shipping area the next morning, hoping to locate the building where their strut was supposed to be. It was close to shift change and the incoming clerk was promised to know all about this shipment and how to release it to them.</p>
<p>Within five minutes of the clerk’s arrival, they had the strut, boxed up in a wooden crate. It was brought over by a forklift and loaded in their trunk.</p>
<p>By the end of the day, they dropped it off at P&D Marine Services. Fred and the men opened the crate to make sure everything looked right. The mechanics then spent the next day installing the strut and finishing the rest of the work, while Fred made arrangements for the boatyard to launch Last Item first thing the next morning, Wednesday, November 16.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“It was 43 degrees this morning and breezy. We sure miss the warm weather. As scheduled, they launched our boat at 7:00 and we headed down the GICW at speed. When we got to The Wharf Marina, about a 10-minute ride, Fred stopped to check the engine room to make sure all was okay. It wasn’t. We had a leak.</p>
<p>“We slowly went back to the yard and called the mechanics back. They happened to already be at the yard working on another boat so they came right over to where we tied up to the wall. It took about three hours working on the shaft seal before they felt they resolved whatever issue we had that caused a leak. They stayed aboard as we ran up and down the canal and no leaks appeared.</p>
<p>“Off we went again, finally able to sing a line from Willy Nelson’s ballad with a slight change in the lyrics: ‘On the Sea Again.’”</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising Into The Tenn-Tomm</a></p>
<p>Update #18: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-the-gulf-of-mexico">On To The Gulf Of Mexico</a></p>
<p>Update #19: This Post.</p>
<p>Update #20: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-the-end-of-our-great-loop">The End Of Our Loop</a></p> |
Last Item: Waiting On Parts |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
The Great Loop |
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In this update, Fred and Sidonia put their Great Loop trip on pause to receive parts to repair their boat. |
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waiting-on-boat-parts-to-arrive.jpg |
2022-11-26 00:00:00.0 |
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https://www.seattleyachts.com/news/last-item-waiting-on-parts |
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<p><em>This is update #18 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>We last found Sidonia and Fred anchored in the back waters of the Tombigbee River, watching locals doing mysterious things near abandoned equipment in a small bay off the main river.</p>
<p>They remain hampered by a bent propeller which limits their progress on their Great Loop. Fred made reservations at Kingfisher Marina in Demopolis to swap the props for new ones. Thankfully, they had brought along a spare set of two propellers, which proved a good thing.</p>
<p>Since damaging one propeller in the waters of Lock B Pool, between Wilkins and Amory locks near Smithville, Mississippi, they have cruised along at true trawler speeds using only one engine. This makes for some long stretches of the less exciting portions of the waterway.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“By Sunday, October 16, near mile marker 248, Last Item lists quite a bit to the starboard side now. Because of the bent prop on the starboard side, we are running on the port engine only, which burns fuel out of the port tank. By the time we get to Demopolis today, we will only have about 15 gallons left in that tank. It will be nice to be leveled up once again.</p>
<p>“We passed more white, chalk cliffs again today. We only see a few houses, though, as it is mostly uninhabited shoreline. In a couple of spots there are cypress trees near the shore as well as palmetto plants, which seem to be a sign that we are really in the South.</p>
<p>“We woke the next morning to the promise of a sunny day, and we arrived where we hoped to get work done on the boat. Kingfisher Marina sits in a large man-made basin. It is very spread out so it’s a good walk from the docks over to the office/store and gas dock. The grounds are very well kept, and they have a swimming pool and courtesy car.</p>
<p>“We used the car today to have lunch in town and go to Walmart for groceries. We didn’t find much of interest in the town itself, most of the restaurants and businesses are out on the highway.</p>
<p>“There are quite a few Loopers here, so we had a nice gathering for docktails this evening. Many of us are holding off reaching Mobile as hurricane season isn’t officially over until November 1st. Most of us do not have insurance to cover that far south until after that date. So, we are all in a bit of a holding pattern for several days.</p>
<p><img title="docktails at kingfisher marina" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/cocktails-at-kingfisher-marina.jpg?cb=6B02D065-D5A1-F3C9-51C2C2F62B5CB0E9" alt="docktails at kingfisher marina" width="800" height="539" /></p>
<p>“The temperature when we got up was 40 degrees and breezy. I thought bringing my knitted headband was unnecessary, but I am so glad I had it today. Fred even put on long pants. It is beautiful out, but it stayed cool and breezy all day.</p>
<p>“We motored over to the travel lift at 8:00 to have our props changed. Once out of the water, we could see the bent propeller blades as well as scrapes in the gelcoat from our mishap. We also saw the small scrape in the gelcoat from touching a rock way back in Georgian Bay.</p>
<p>“The yard workers didn’t have too much trouble getting the props off but did have a difficult time getting the lock nut back on one of the new props. After slathering on lots of grease, they finally got it tight.</p>
<p>“They lowered us back into the water and we went out into the river for a test drive, only to find we still had a vibration. Rather than get hauled out again, Fred decided to schedule another haul out when we reached Mobile, where we will have our 200-hour engine service done on our twin Volvo diesels. It appears we’ll spend more time in Mobile than originally planned.</p>
<p>“As we approached Demopolis lock the following morning, which is only about three miles from the marina, Fred tried reaching the lock personnel to see if they were ready for us or if they had barges coming. He was not able to contact anyone by either VHF or cell phone, so we took a chance and left the marina. We were nearly at the lock when Fred finally spoke to the lock master, only to learn that a crew was doing maintenance on the lock, which would take about an hour and a half. Two hours later, we entered the lock.</p>
<p>“The Tombigbee River has become a winding waterway, twisting from one side to the other, and includes some wild hairpin turns.</p>
<p><img title="tombigbee on gps" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/examples-of-course-of-tombigbee-river.jpg?cb=6B02D069-BC7D-B83A-FEF5CA7103E33D29" alt="tombigbee on gps" width="800" height="538" /></p>
<p>We traveled 95 miles today but as for progress to our next destination, we only made 45 miles. It still surprises us how few houses we see along the shore. We seem to only pass miles of tree-covered shoreline.</p>
<p>“We arrived at our next stop, Bobby’s Fish Camp, in Bladon Springs, Alabama.</p>
<p><img title="bobbys fish camp alabama" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bobbys-fish-camp.jpg?cb=6B02D071-0BB3-E8C3-CC4BA1F955ED8CCC" alt="bobbys fish camp alabama" width="800" height="507" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p><img title="nimbus boat getting fuel" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/last-item-at-bobbys-fish-camp.jpg?cb=6B02D06D-AA13-C70A-E4AB37C7842C742B" alt="nimbus boat getting fuel" width="800" height="478" /></p>
<p>The camp only has a tiny dock, fuel, a few RV spaces, and a couple of cabins. There used to be a small restaurant, but food is no longer served. Though the buildings and dock are very rustic, the setting is nice and peaceful. Inside the office, a pool table is in the center of the room and the walls are hung with photos and other eclectic paraphernalia, including an alligator gar caught by Bobby, the original owner, many years ago. The nearest town is Coffeeville, which is on the east side of the river and a little south of Bobby’s.</p>
<p><img title="alligator gar" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/alligator-gar.jpg?cb=6B02D075-A8D0-C015-C9385ABF47209026" alt="alligator gar" width="800" height="501" /></p>
<p>“As we are now later in the month, October 20, it is very chilly in the mornings, but it warms up to a comfortable temperature in the afternoons. We left Bobby’s and entered the Coffeeville lock while it was still a bit cool. Since the beginning of our trip, we have transited about 100 locks so far and the Coffeeville lock is to be our final one. I can now clean our very dirty fenders and stow some of them away for the remainder of our trip.</p>
<p>“We found the river mostly uninhabited all the way to Mobile. The shoreline transitioned from trees right down to the water to where there are little beaches here and there, some muddy and some sandy. Closer to Mobile, the tree line became less visible. Like yesterday, the route of the river resembled a Grand Prix circuit with hairpin turns and numerous switchbacks. We traveled over 118 miles, but we only made 66 miles closer to Mobile Bay.</p>
<p>“Somewhere during the day, we moved from the Tombigbee River to the Mobile River and once we were a few miles outside of Mobile, we began seeing a lot of barge traffic. Then we saw tall buildings, cranes, and cargo ships being pushed by tugs. We finally entered Mobile Bay, which is huge, shallow, and today it was choppy. I wanted to turn around and head back into the peaceful, calm rivers we had enjoyed so much.</p>
<p><img title="mobile bay" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/mobile-river.jpg?cb=6B02D078-CD03-E71F-CEFE06D720BCCC6D" alt="mobile bay" width="800" height="503" /></p>
<p>“Being unfamiliar with Mobile Bay, Fred carefully followed the narrow white line on our chart showing the entrance to Dog River. We were somewhat taken aback when we got to Dog River Marina. The docks are in bad shape and there are absolutely no amenities other than power. The staff person was equally unwelcoming and there is no place to go on shore.</p>
<p>“Early the next morning, Friday, we fueled up and left Dog River Marina, though we originally planned to stay for three nights. We already had reservations at Wharf Marina in Orange Beach starting Sunday night, where the mechanic will do our 200-hour service. The Wharf Marina said we could come in today, thank goodness!”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Sidonia and Fred’s experience at Dog River Marina highlights one of the issues when relying on printed guides and online resources that may not be fully updated. Dog River Marina would appear to be an over-the-top facility when reviewed on Marina Life. It is even listed as a Marina Life advertising partner, and its four-color ad shows every conceivable service and amenity. One would almost expect fresh crumb buns and the morning paper delivered to one’s boat each morning. A West Marine store was listed on the premises or very nearby.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, in the four years since the glowing reviews, quite a bit has happened in the world, and not just Covid-19. Clearly Dog River Marina fell victim to whatever calamity reduced it to its current state. One recent reviewer said the person answering the VHF radio “admitted to having zero boating experience” so was unable to provide even the simplest of directions or marina information.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On our way to Wharf Marina, there was no white line on the chart leading us to Orange Beach, but we didn’t see any depth less than 6’9” on our sounder the whole way. Unlike yesterday, Mobile Bay was practically flat calm with no tropical storm systems lurking out in the Atlantic. We soon entered the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GICW). At Mobile Bay, this waterway extends 271 miles east to Carrabelle, Florida, and heading west it goes as far as Brownsville, Texas. The trip from Dog River to the Wharf Marina was 33 miles.</p>
<p>“The Wharf Marina sits right below a 10-story condo building and beyond are lots of restaurants and shops. We are the tiny ‘minnow’ on our dock, surrounded by large sport fishing boats. We celebrated being out of Dog River by going ashore for margaritas.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The Wharf Marina is one of those resort facilities that hopes to reimagine boating in an exciting venue complete with fishing tournaments, vacation condos, hotels, resort attractions, and everything to make a family vacation a memorable experience. It is located halfway between Mobile Bay and Pensacola Bay, and it keeps its calendar full by hosting fishing championships, boat shows, shops, nightlife, concerts, laser and water shows, and first-class restaurants. Everything one could expect from a top-notch vacation property.</p>
<p>It's also not a bad place to spend a few days getting one’s boat repaired and serviced.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We unloaded our electric bikes and toured around the mall area shops to get an idea of what was here. We then went for lunch at a seafood restaurant with the idea of having oysters. Once we got our oysters, we were reminded that there is a huge difference between East Coast and West Coast oysters. The East Coast oysters we are served are small, the size of a nickel, and, when covered in a sauce, you can’t taste the oyster. The shrimp, however, were delicious.</p>
<p><img title="wharf marina mall" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/wharf-marina-mall.jpg?cb=6B02D07C-F81F-297D-8D4AAF0CA8CB28E8" alt="wharf marina mall" width="800" height="466" /></p>
<p>“The cold spell is pretty much over. The nights are cool but nowhere near the 30-degree temperatures we’ve had for several nights. And it gets quite warm again during the day.</p>
<p>“As we washed our laundry, we went for a cinnamon roll at a nearby coffee shop. In the early afternoon, we went back for gelato cones, not a nutritious start to the day but we were saving room for a nice dinner out. We perused several of the shops and I bought another hat, my third one of the trip. I’m always looking for the perfect hat.</p>
<p>“We had an excellent dinner at The Villaggio Grille in the Wharf Mall.</p>
<p>“The mechanic arrived at 8:30 sharp on Monday, October 24, and worked until around noon, doing whatever was needed for the 200-hour service. He also cured a minor oil leak we had.</p>
<p>“We were unable to get a rental car from Enterprise, so we took an Uber ride over to the Hertz office, which had cars available. We then went to Lulu’s for lunch which, we’d heard, everyone is supposed to do. Lulu is Jimmy Buffet’s sister. The restaurant fronts the GICW and the atmosphere is very ‘beachy.’ When we passed it on the waterway on Friday, it was packed. Today was quite windy and there were only a few people there. Though my shrimp and grits were good, we wouldn’t recommend it unless Jimmy himself was there singing.</p>
<p>“Today, dolphins came into the marina and swam right in front of ‘Last Item.’ There are also brown pelicans swimming around and diving for fish. Ozzie especially likes to watch the great blue herons that stalk around the dock looking for little fish.</p>
<p><img title="ozzie the cat on boat" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/ozzie-the-cat.jpg?cb=6B02D084-C3C3-B775-324A9A2D8C71FB6F" alt="ozzie the cat on boat" width="800" height="454" /></p>
<p>“We were just finishing dinner on the boat when someone knocked on the hull. It was Loral and Brian on ‘Port-a-gee.’ They are in the same marina but in the facility’s other basin. They had a pretty tough time crossing Mobile Bay today to get into the GICW. We made plans about getting together while we’re both here.</p>
<p>“The weather report for the next few days is for rain, off and on with thunderstorms, possibly severe, late in the afternoon and warm and muggy.</p>
<p>“Yesterday, I found a palmetto bug (a big cockroach) on the back deck sofa. I thought it was a big beetle and called Fred to take care of it. When he tried to grab it, it scurried off so fast, he knew it wasn’t a beetle. Of course, it disappeared. I thought it probably ended up in the engine area so today we bought roach pellets to sprinkle around down there.</p>
<p>“We drove to Orange Beach and had a good Mexican lunch. We then drove along the gulf shoreline which is lined with large condos and houses. It is fun to see the different pastel-colored houses many of which have been given names. We were also pleased to see that there is a nice, long stretch of empty shoreline between the towns of Orange Beach and Gulf Shores that is a Gulf State park. The huge park encompasses Shelby Lakes and even part of the GICW.</p>
<p><img title="orange beach alabama" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/orange-beach-alabama.jpg?cb=6B02D080-B7DE-DF7E-B07C13C0EA8F055C" alt="orange beach alabama" width="800" height="483" /></p>
<p>“On Wednesday morning, October 26, we left the marina and chugged up the waterway to Saunders Marine Center in Orange Beach, where we were hauled and blocked. P&D Marine, the local engine repair facility that specializes in Volvo Penta engines, started working right away on removing the propellers.</p>
<p>“We drove to Mobile, about an hour from the yard so I could get a shot that I need to get twice a year. We didn’t do any sightseeing, and just came straight back to the boat.</p>
<p>“We then picked up Loral and Brian at the marina and went back for another nice dinner at The Villaggio Grille.</p>
<p>“We were barely awake the next morning when the grinding started on the bottom of the boat. We had some scrapes there from hitting bottom but luckily, all were very superficial. Next came the guys from P&D to remove the shaft for inspection and to remove the strut which had a slight bend in it. We contacted Seattle Yachts and were told that they would have a new strut from Nimbus flown in from Sweden within about three days.</p>
<p>“We were happy to get off the boat and away from the grinding noise, and we agreed to pick up Loral and Brian and take them to the Pensacola airport. They were flying home for a few days to attend a wedding. This gave us a great opportunity to drive along the Gulf Shore and into Florida.</p>
<p>“Back in Orange Beach, we headed straight for Gulf Shores Golf Course. While signing in, I heard that the man in front of us was going to play with us, so I invited him to sit with us at lunch. Vince has an environmental contracting business. We had a very enjoyable round with him and as we said goodbye, he handed us his card and said to let him know if we needed anything. We will probably play golf again before we leave here, and Vince said he would like to join us.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>For anyone not familiar with the area, this part of the coastline was successfully developed to draw attention to highlight the beauty and location of Alabama’s white sand beaches. Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism has made an outstanding effort to bring every kind of water activity to visitors, from boating to dolphin cruises, offshore fishing, diving, parasailing, cruises, and more.</p>
<p>The arts and cultural activities, shopping, nightlife, hiking and nature tours, and world-class golf are major attractions to the Gulf Coast. While most associate the Gulf region as hubs for ship building and the petrochemical industry, tourism is also a big draw to the area, despite the damage and destruction from past hurricanes and other storms.</p>
<p>Tourism is now a permanent economic driver for the beautiful and fragile Gulf region.</p>
<p>One of the unique and historically valuable places in the Mobile area to visit is Battleship Memorial Park. It opened in 1969 to provide a walking museum of military history that spans land, sea, and air. In addition to tanks, field artillery, and a variety of wartime memorabilia, there is a restored P-51 aircraft honoring the Tuskegee Airmen, a Bell Army One helicopter that transported five presidents on official business, an A-12 Black Bird reconnaissance aircraft from the 1960s that flew at over 2,300mph, and an assortment of aircraft and other military gear used by all branches of our armed services. The Fallen Hero 9/11 Memorial brings these exhibits up to modern times.</p>
<p><img title="memorial park battleships" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/uss-alabama-park.jpg?cb=6B02D088-07E5-D73F-6BFAAC6AC52C745C" alt="memorial park battleships" width="800" height="443" /></p>
<p>The highlight of the park is BB-60, the decommissioned USS Alabama, a South Dakota-class battleship that carried 2,500 crew around the Pacific during WWII. The “Big A” took part in the bombardment and invasion activities of numerous campaigns against Japanese forces in Pacific islands groups as well as the Japanese mainland. Even a partial list of these campaigns shows the enormous contribution of the Big A to the ultimate success of the war in the Pacific: Marianas, Palau, Truk, Saipan, Battle of the Philippines, Guam, Carolines, Formosa, Leyte Gulf, Okinawa, industrial centers in mainland Japan, and the inevitable post-surrender occupation in Tokyo Bay.</p>
<p>Another celebrity warship in the memorial park is SS-228, the USS Drum, launched in 1941. She was a successful member of the submarine service of the U.S. Navy Pacific fleet and is the oldest sub on display in the country. Over the course of 13 war patrols, Drum earned 12 battle stars, and sank the eighth highest total of Japanese tonnage during the war, as well as saving countless downed airmen from Pacific waters.</p>
<p>The memorial park suffered over $7 million in damages from Hurricane Katrina in April 2005, but reopened in January 2006. These memorial parks provide a meaningful opportunity to acquaint younger generations with our history, the cost of our freedom, and the incredible effort and sacrifices of our citizens fighting against the evils of the world. It is imperative that such history be documented, even celebrated, and the memories maintained for future generations.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Since our Hertz rental car needed to be turned in and we will be here for several more days, Fred decided to replace the Hertz car with one from Enterprise. Making the change saved us at least $200 and we had a nicer car.</p>
<p>“We went to Battleship Memorial Park to see the battleship Alabama, which is open for tours, and spent two hours climbing over her from stem to stern.</p>
<p>The Alabama was launched in 1942 and carried 2,500 men during war time. It has 70 guns from 406mm (16”) down to 20mm and served mainly as an escort for the carriers. The ship is 680 feet long and has a 108-foot beam, but the quarters are very cramped considering its size.</p>
<p><img title="guns on battleship" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/battleship-guns.jpg?cb=6B02D08F-D3B9-33BA-53A61071E860654A" alt="guns on battleship" width="800" height="871" /></p>
<p>“It has everything a small town would have but on a very small scale. There were offices for the doctor, dentist and ear, nose, and throat exams. There were rooms for surgery, hospital beds, a tailor shop, laundry, ice cream shop, brig, bakery, vegetable prep, potato prep, blacksmith shop, machine shop and more. Every available space, however small, had a tier or tiers of three to four metal bunks with accompanying small metal lockers. Every doorway has a sill of approximately 12 inches that had to be stepped over and a height restriction you must duck under. Nothing, I’m sure, for young sailors but awkward for the rest of us.</p>
<p>“After a delicious lunch at nearby Felix’s, we went back to explore the USS Drum.</p>
<p><img title="USS Drum" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/uss-drum.jpg?cb=6B02D093-E733-A716-591BAFB91C10B667" alt="USS Drum" width="800" height="462" /></p>
<p>The submarine is 311 feet long and has a 27-foot beam. The conditions on the Alabama, by comparison, were luxurious. No medical offices, bakery, or ice cream shop here. Again, bunks were squeezed into every nook and cranny, including underneath torpedos by the aft torpedo tubes. The SS Drum was credited with sinking 15 ships during her 13 patrols.</p>
<p><img title="torpeedo tubes" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/torpeedo-tubes.jpg?cb=6B02D096-9F77-F541-0A91169DD17DB698" alt="torpeedo tubes" width="800" height="470" /></p>
<p>“It rained the weekend of October 29, and the downpours started during the night. The rain sounded like hail as it came down in buckets, hammering the top of ‘Last Item.’ It would let up a little every so often and then pour again. During one of the lulls, we dashed out to the grocery store and then got a bit of lunch, arriving back at the boat just before the next deluge.</p>
<p>“We were watching football on TV in the afternoon when the picture was taken over by an emergency weather report. Meteorologists called for severe storm action with possible tornados. Fred wanted the weather screen to go away so he could watch the Georgia Bulldogs and Florida Gators game but the continuous weather coverage continued.</p>
<p>“The radar pictures showed cell after cell of storms marching up the Gulf of Mexico toward Mississippi and Alabama and the tornado warnings became more imminent. The forecasts included real-time pictures of funnel clouds dipping down and one actually became a tornado as we watched. The camera then showed a waterspout crossing Mobile Bay. Twice our cell phones sounded loud tornado alerts.</p>
<p>“The meteorologist named specific neighborhoods and even streets where people needed to get to safety. Several tornados touched down in Mobile County, one right near downtown. Others touched in other areas of Baldwin County, one about 11 miles from us and another about 30 miles away. We had suffered a direct hit by a tornado in 2010 and did not want to have another experience like that so, needless to say, I was particularly anxious.</p>
<p>“By around 9:00pm, the tornado alerts finally lifted. The wind and the rain continued but it was a relief to know the worst threat was over. We later learned that power lines had been knocked down in several places, but other than that, very little damage was done.”</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising Into The Tenn-Tomm</a></p>
<p>Update #18: This post.</p>
<p>Update #19: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-waiting-on-parts">Waiting On Parts</a></p>
<p>Update #20: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-the-end-of-our-great-loop">The End Of Our Loop</a></p> |
Last Item: On To The Gulf Of Mexico |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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The Great Loop adventure continues with Fred and Sidonia now making their way though Alabama. |
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<p><em>This is update #17 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>We left Sidonia and Fred chilling out to country music and burgers at the Clifton RV and Marina Bar & Grill in Clifton, Tennessee. One could say they have been enjoying their travels through the interconnecting waterways, lakes, and rivers that run through the middle of the country.</p>
<p>On their way again, they continued past Savannah, Tennessee, and their travels began to zigzag as the waterways connect from river to lake to river, and so on. The couple is now in the lower half of the country from a map perspective, seen from Chicago to the Gulf of Mexico at Mobile, Alabama.</p>
<p>As they continue to rent a car at strategic points, they have greatly broadened their adventure by visiting cities and historical sites that the watery route either passes too far away or would require a lengthy side trip by boat.</p>
<p>In this segment, the couple visited several popular tourist spots, saw early settlements of a young country, and walked through important Civil War locations, where Union and Confederate troops battled for supremacy in a critical moment in our nation’s history. At Shiloh, for instance, 100,000 troops fought in April 1862, and the almost 24,000 casualties mark a sad moment in American history.</p>
<p>Looper boats continue to dodge barge traffic on the Tenn-Tom Waterway, but it is generally much reduced from the commercial traffic on the Mississippi route, making the Tenn-Tom a popular choice for Loopers. But recent events where the Mississippi is at record low levels means there is an increase in barge traffic on alternate routes, so cruisers are finding more commercial traffic on the Tenn-Tom right now.</p>
<p>As the miles go by, The Great Loop continues…</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“First thing on October 3, we raised our anchor in our Tennessee River anchorage and made our way to Pickwick Lock and Dam. There were three other boats heading there as well, so we kept our speed to about 6 knots to match the slower boats. Though it seems as if we should be heading down river, we are really heading upriver and would be locking up through Pickwick. The river is about five feet lower than normal which made the lift 55 feet today, about the highest we’ve had on the whole trip.</p>
<p>“Just before making the turn into Yellow Creek from the lake, we were in three states at the same time. The intersection of Tennessee, Alabama, and Mississippi is in the middle of Pickwick Lake, the northern part of the 234-mile Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, which the Army Corp of Engineers created as a navigable route to the Gulf of Mexico.</p>
<p>“Grand Harbor Marina is a large facility located in Yellow Creek. It has covered slips for its resident boats and on shore is an eight-story condominium building and a swimming pool. The marina store has a restaurant area, which was not being used, probably because of the time of year, even though the weather was beautiful. Maintenance also appeared to have transitioned to off season.</p>
<p>“We used the marina courtesy car to go into Corinth to pick up a rental car. This entire area can be very confusing to a non-local. The marina is in Mississippi but the address on their paperwork says Counce, Tennessee. You are barely out of the parking lot, and you are back in Tennessee. While driving to Corinth, which is in Mississippi, we started out in Mississippi but within a few minutes we were in Tennessee. Then we were on a narrow road which is the state line and, as we drove down the middle of the lane, Fred was in Mississippi, and I was in Tennessee.</p>
<p>“I swear that Google maps wants us to see as much of the country as possible, as on several occasions it gave us very roundabout routes when there clearly are more direct ones. Most of the time we don’t care, as it’s fun to explore the little curvy back roads.</p>
<p>“This area is loaded with Civil War history. The most significant is the battleground at Shiloh, the largest and most deadly battle of the western part of the war.</p>
<p><img title="shiloh military park sign" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/shiloh-military-park-sign.jpg?cb=6E672ADC-F723-3498-B9B2EE85DC105BC4" alt="shiloh military park sign" width="800" height="517" /></p>
<p>The next morning, we left the boat and drove to the Shiloh National Military Park which covers a huge area. We first watched a well-done reenactment movie at the Visitor Center which gives a clear explanation of the two sides and their various maneuvers. All around the grounds are interpretive signs placing the viewer where skirmishes took place and telling which regiment(s) was there. After viewing the movie, you could stand on the very spot and visualize the scene.</p>
<p><img title="canons at shiloh military park" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/canons-at-military-park.jpg?cb=6E672AE0-F9EE-8EFB-DEEFE10A1FADD62F" alt="canons at shiloh military park" width="800" height="500" /></p>
<p>“The cemetery here is not just for those killed at Shiloh, as soldiers killed in other locations of the war were later moved here with Union and Confederate soldiers placed in their own grounds. We both had very strong emotions standing on this former battlefield and knowing what had occurred.</p>
<p>“We later drove into Corinth and had a bite to eat at The Rib Shack. Really good ribs and some of the best beans I’ve ever had. We then went up and down the streets reading the historical markers. There are some very lovely old houses in town, several of which were used as headquarters for different generals during the war.</p>
<p><img title="historical marker" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/johnston-headquarters.jpg?cb=6E672AE9-DD64-AA6D-E48063836255FEFB" alt="historical marker" width="800" height="547" /></p>
<p>It was a very important location because two railway lines crossed over each other in the middle of the town. In the Battle of Corinth, the two sides fought for control of the town and the railway supply lines, but the Union Army won the fight.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Many Loopers continue on the Tennessee River from Pickwick Lake to Chattanooga, but it is a long side trip and Sidonia and Fred decided to drive there with their rental car. The Loopers that make the trip by boat enjoy a memorable cruise through Florence, Joe Wheeler State Park, Decatur, Huntsville, and Guntersville on the way to Chattanooga. While it did not fit the schedule for the crew of Last Item, they nevertheless didn’t want to miss the trip. So, they made the four-hour drive which was a better choice for them then many additional days on the river.</p>
<p>Plus, it gave them wheels to visit some other attractions over the next couple of days that would have been a stretch had they been staying on the boat.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We drove to Chattanooga from the marina today, October 5, a four-hour drive through some nice countryside. On the way we passed through four states: Mississippi, Tennessee, Alabama, and Georgia and were now back in the eastern time zone. We saw cotton fields white and fluffy with cotton bolls as well as large rolls of picked cotton.</p>
<p><img title="rolls of picked cotton" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/rolled-up-in-field.jpg?cb=6E672AED-CED3-AA7C-FDB0986C892D1EF7" alt="rolls of picked cotton" width="800" height="487" /></p>
<p>We passed the Coon Dog Graveyard and the 30 Cats Cafe. We found a motel not far from Lookout Mountain as that is near where the most notable sights are located.</p>
<p>“It was a little late to do much sightseeing by the time we arrived at the motel, so we relaxed a bit before going down to a riverside restaurant for dinner.</p>
<p>“Our first tour the next morning was the Lookout Mountain Incline Railway. It was engineered by Otis Elevator in 1893 and originally powered by steam, although it had since been converted to electric power. The railway claims to be the steepest funicular in the world at almost a 73-percent grade. The cars do not hang from cables, but cables pull the cars up the rails.</p>
<p><img title="The Incline Railway" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/incline-tram.jpg?cb=6E672AF9-D4CD-194F-EA6CFE54F18E30D3" alt="The Incline Railway" width="800" height="538" /></p>
<p>“We climbed into the bus-like car and went down terraced steps to our seats that were facing backward, which is to say looking down the hill, not up. It’s hard to imagine what a 73 percent grade would be, but when we got to that part, it felt so steep we could almost fall forward out of our seats. We spent some time outside the car at the top, looking at the view of Chattanooga, the Tennessee River, and miles and miles beyond.</p>
<p>“We then walked several blocks to The Lookout where The Battle of the Clouds took place. It was a high position held by the Confederates while fighting in Chattanooga. Grant’s troops climbed the steep sides of the mountain and, as they neared the summit, a thick fog rolled in. Though neither side could see much of anything, the Confederates left their positions, and the Union troops were able to take over the high ground.</p>
<p>“After lunch we went to the Towing and Recovery Museum.</p>
<p><img title="Towing museum" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/towing-museum.jpg?cb=6E672AF1-C6C3-2213-0F7E62603A825995" alt="Towing museum" width="800" height="495" /></p>
<p>We had passed by it and thought we should at least check it out. The museum is in Chattanooga because that is where the very first tow truck was built. The museum housed tow trucks built from before the 1920s and progressed up through more recent years. They also had an amazing display of hundreds of toy tow trucks.</p>
<p><img title="old tow trucks" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/old-tow-truck.jpg?cb=6E672AF5-0683-C861-F8A80ED3F600D597" alt="old tow trucks" width="800" height="548" /></p>
<p>“We were told that it was good that we arrived there when we did because for the next three days there would be at least 3,000 people in the towing business coming to attend a big annual event, many of them arriving with their own tow trucks.</p>
<p>“Next it was on to Rock City. The name does not do it justice as it is a spectacular area of granite boulders and slabs which create cracks and crevices, ravines, and pools. The creators of Rock City did a marvelous job of making pathways in, around, over, and through the boulders. Some cracks were so narrow we had to turn sideways, and some people had to find alternate routes. There are several stone bridges as well as a swinging bridge.</p>
<p><img title="rock city" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/between-rock-walls.jpg?cb=6E672AFE-0CFF-DF49-1088A182D907E5ED" alt="rock city" width="800" height="804" /></p>
<p>“A large outcropping formed a cliff, called ‘Lover’s Leap,’ which cantilevered out from the mountain. It is said you can see seven states from here: Tennessee, Georgia, North and South Carolina, Virginia, Kentucky and Alabama…but we couldn’t tell one state from another.”</p>
<p><img title="lovers leap" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lowers-leap.jpg?cb=6E672B02-B182-9EEF-EFEDF266EFCB2127" alt="lovers leap" width="800" height="469" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>With a population of over 180,000, Chattanooga is the fourth largest city in Tennessee, and is a major commercial hub in numerous industries, from automotive to healthcare, manufacturing, and the food industry. It also is a large tourist draw with many attractions. Chief among them is its significant role in the Civil War, as multiple major railroads converged in the growing city.</p>
<p>One of its popular tourist attractions is Ruby Falls, a network of underground waterfalls that gained popularity over the years to qualify as a National Historic Landmark, often associated with the nearby Rock City attraction on Lookout Mountain.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“The weather has been perfect lately but this Friday morning we dressed in warmer clothes as we were going into the cavern at Ruby Falls which is at 60 degrees. We took an elevator ride 260 feet down to begin the half-mile walk to the falls. The pathway is narrow, and you must be careful not to bump your head on the low ceiling on the path. Most of the time we could stand up straight and we never had to bend over or crawl. In some places, however, we could see where Leo Lambert, the man who discovered the underground falls, had crawled along when he was exploring the cave. The cave has stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone, bacon, beehives, straws and tobacco leaves as well as some rather unique formations like elephant’s foot and the dragon’s claw.</p>
<p>“About a half an hour along the pathway and 1,120 feet below the top of Lookout Mountain, we were rewarded by the sight of the 145-foot underground falls. It must have been an incredible feeling when Lambert happened upon the huge, domed cavern with the beautiful waterfall cascading down into the pool below. He named the falls Ruby after his wife.</p>
<p><img title="ruby falls" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/cave-waterfall.jpg?cb=6E672B06-C267-32CA-E93A5E36B3E9FF06" alt="ruby falls" width="800" height="906" /></p>
<p>“At the end of our tour of the falls, we started driving back to the marina and ‘Last Item.’ We followed a different route than we took to reach Chattanooga so we could see more of the countryside.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Back at Grand Harbor Marina, the couple spent the weekend cleaning the boat, doing laundry, and enjoying some downtime as they waited to return their rental car on Monday. But it was not all chores, as they found time to enjoy more local restaurants and play golf at the well-maintained, 18-hole golf course at the Pickwick State Park.</p>
<p>One highlight they wanted to make sure they visited when returning the rental car was to have lunch at Abe’s Grill in Corinth. Made famous by locals and travelers alike, the diner is reportedly the oldest diner still operating on Route 72 by its original owners. The family celebrated its 47th year in 2021.</p>
<p>The outside of the restaurant reminded Sidonia of a wrecking junk yard, with hubcaps and other stuff scattered around. The place is very small, with limited seating at the counter with only 20 stools and a few tables outside.</p>
<p><img title="abes restaurant" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/abes-grill.jpg?cb=6E672B0A-B035-E6EA-45786FD03B95942F" alt="abes restaurant" width="800" height="530" /></p>
<p>As the couple entered, they were met by Abe, who greets customers and manages the cashiers, all while talking to everyone. Every square inch of the interior is covered in license plates and funny signs. Abe’s wife, Terri, and their son, Ryan, work behind the counter. Ryan especially has finely tuned his cooking and waiting skills, as he takes three or four orders at the same time and never misses a beat.</p>
<p>Terri serves all drinks from a canning jar, sweet tea is the favorite, and does everything else. The food is served on a piece of paper with fries in a little paper basket. Sidonia and Fred report the burger was good, but it is the character of the place that made it so delightful.</p>
<p>After a quick stop at a local grocery store, the couple got back aboard and took off once again on their capable <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> cruiser and headed down Yellow Creek. They ran almost 40 miles that afternoon and anchored in a lovely bay in Bay Springs Lake just short of the Jamie L. Whitten Lock.</p>
<p><img title="bay springs lake" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fall-color-at-lake.jpg?cb=6E672B0E-9108-FD21-3026981268005BA0" alt="bay springs lake" width="800" height="620" /></p>
<p>They enjoyed yet another beautiful sunset as the fall day came to an end.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Tuesday morning, October 11, we locked through the Whitten lock at 8:30 with three other Loopers. I thought our last lock, which was a 55-foot drop, was probably the biggest lift or drop we would encounter, but the Whitten lock drop was 80 feet. About five miles farther on we came to the Sonny Montgomery lock where we had to wait for a barge and tow to finish locking through.</p>
<p>“At times we hear some very weird sounds when locking down. Some of the floating bollards make the most awful clanking and groaning and moaning sounds, like some horrible creature from Jurassic Park. Some of the sounds are caused by the wheels of the bollards scraping down the channel inset within the wall of the lock. We don’t know what causes some of the other sounds. The locks on the Tenn-Tom Waterway sound a loud siren when they start to let the water out and a long, loud horn signaling when the gates are fully open, and boats can exit.</p>
<p>“We docked at Midway Marina which, though it is a little rustic, has a very nice, helpful staff. To one side of the marina, the remains of trees stand in several feet of water, evidence of times prior to the building of the dams.</p>
<p>“Eddie on ‘Fjiaka’ joined us on the marina porch for some lively conversation at happy hour. At the top of the hill just above the marina is Guy’s Place Restaurant, where we had a delicious dinner with Brian and Loral on ‘Port-a-Gee.’</p>
<p>“Several Loopers left early the next morning, but we waited for a couple of barges to pass through before we left the marina and locked through Midway lock with ‘Port-a-Gee’ around 11:30. We matched our speed to stay with ‘Port-a-Gee’ as we followed a barge that locked through ahead of us.</p>
<p>“We were now in an area called Lock B Pool (a wide area in the river) located between the Wilkins and Amory locks. We were well within the buoy markers running only on the port engine and doing about 7 knots when we hit bottom. To move us back into deeper water, Fred used the bow and stern thrusters in order to not damage our props.</p>
<p>“It was too late, however. When Fred put the starboard engine in gear, it had a very bad vibration. We would not be able to use that engine and run at our normal 24-25 knots until we replaced the prop. Thank goodness we brought along an extra set of propellers! Fred made arrangements at Kingfisher Marina in Demopolis to have our prop changed.</p>
<p><img title="Kingfisher Bay Marina" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/kingfisher-bay-marina.jpg?cb=A2D3B3FE-FB0F-BEE2-5F94D26A4A564A16" alt="Kingfisher Bay Marina" width="800" height="503" /></p>
<p>“The buoys, which are important navigational aids we rely on, are very unreliable around here. We have seen them up against the riverbanks many times and Brian told us he almost ran one over that was just inches beneath the surface.</p>
<p>“It took us six hours to travel 24.7 miles and transit three locks today, a very slow day. We were behind the same barge and tow all day and had to wait at each lock until it got through. There is no use passing him, though, as the lock masters know they are coming, and commercial traffic always have priority.</p>
<p>“We anchored in a nice, quiet spot on the Tennessee River where it ties back into the Tenn-Tom. ‘Port-a-Gee’ also anchored near us.</p>
<p>“Our nice quiet spot turned out to be not so quiet when, around 6:00pm, lightning started flickering in the sky and we could hear rolling thunder in the distance. The flickering was continuous, a real light show that lasted until around midnight. At one point, a lightning strike hit frighteningly close, and the resounding boom made Ozzie fly off the bed and we almost followed him. Thankfully that was the only strike near us.</p>
<p>“The next morning started out foggy but lifted enough by 9:00 for us to be on our way. We talked to Brian as we passed their boat and he said he saw the sparks from that lightning strike last night and pointed on shore to where it had hit. It was way too close for comfort.</p>
<p>“We passed through Aberdeen lock and cruised for another 27 miles along a very quiet stretch of the Tenn-Tom. We felt bumps a couple of times, most likely from small pieces of wood beneath the surface. We had planned to continue through the Stennis lock and then anchor but changed our minds and docked at Columbus Marina. To summarize the marina, the wooden docks need new boards, the staff is great, the facilities are a little far away, but bathrooms and laundry are very nice and clean. The town of Columbus is about three miles away.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Columbus is like many small towns in America, where there is always an interesting story if one only bothers to investigate its history. Today’s town of 23,000 was originally founded in 1819, referred informally as Possum Town (a name given by its Choctaw neighbors) and it was believed to be in Alabama, rather than Mississippi. No matter, it continued to grow, surviving the Civil War as a hospital town (where many of the injured from Shiloh were transported). The town’s successful defense by Confederate General Nathan Forrest meant that its many antebellum homes were spared from Union destruction. This is unique and special as so many Southern towns were destroyed. Its local homes are toured and celebrated each year during an annual pilgrimage by people from around the country.</p>
<p>A group of the town’s women decided to decorate both Union and Confederate graves with flowers on April 26, 1866, in what eventually became Memorial Day.<br />The city’s founders also established what is still operated today as Mississippi’s first public school.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Friday, October 14, we left Columbus Marina before 9:00, and entered the Stennis lock about a mile away, along with a boat named ‘Mimosa.’ We then had a 28-mile stretch before reaching the Tom Bevil lock. The river gently curved back and forth, which kept Fred busy pushing autopilot buttons. We stayed at about 8 knots, as did ‘Mimosa.’ Somewhere along the way, we entered Alabama.</p>
<p>“Twenty miles after clearing Tom Bevil lock, we carefully approached a place that appeared to be suitable for anchoring, but once again, it was way too shallow. We went on a couple of more miles and anchored near an area called Vienna, at mile marker 287 at the edge of a slough that exited into the Tennessee River. We had traveled 43 miles in 7 hours with two locks. We will be very glad to have our damaged prop replaced and get back our 25-knot cruising speed!</p>
<p>“Shortly after settling in, a dinghy came down the slough and over to our boat. We assumed it was the man on ‘Mimosa’ and we invited him aboard. He anchored at the entrance to the slough as well, a few hundred yards back. When he began talking and laughing, he sounded almost exactly like one of our sons-in-law although a few years younger. Chris is from Alberta, California, and he bought his boat in Illinois. He has been single handing most of the way as the friends he had counted on had not worked out or were unable to come. He is not a Looper and plans to go from Florida to Cuba and then on to Mexico. We really enjoyed our visit with him.</p>
<p>“Shortly before going to bed, we saw a bright light shining at us. Then we could see more lights as a tug and barge rounded a curve in the river. Our anchor light was on, and we had left our aft cockpit lights on low just to be as visible as possible, as we were anchored at the edge of the river, not quite inside the slough. The tug kept its spotlight on us, and we could see him adjust over a little closer to the opposite side of the river. There was plenty of room, so we really didn’t have to worry about the possibility of being hit.</p>
<p>“I noticed that the captain kept shining the spotlight far down the river even after they passed us. They are probably used to seeing anchored boats along here as it is a very long stretch between marinas.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>For travel on any waterways shared with commercial, special, or military traffic, it is vital to maintain proper lighting to make sure all watercraft can see your location, especially if you anchor in a navigable waterway, such as the Tenn-Tom or many places on the ICW. It is pure folly to just drop the hook and turn on an anchor light when anchored anywhere near a channel that is used by commercial tugs, ships, and other working craft. In many narrow sections of rivers, it is a wrong assumption that once you are done for the day when the sun goes down that everyone else is done as well. Tugs pushing barges and other working craft run 24/7 and they continue during the night.</p>
<p>Being well positioned out of harm’s way, as well as showing bright exterior lighting, more than the basic anchor light, will prove to be the safest way to transit waterways.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Last night while visiting with Chris, we heard cows mooing somewhere on the bank above us. This morning, we saw a few of them and each one had a young one with it. They are the first critters of any kind we have seen in ages. It’s probably a bit premature but we also have now started keeping an eye out for alligators.</p>
<p>“After miles and miles of tree-covered shoreline, it was almost a shock when we came around a curve and saw the beautiful White Cliffs of Epes, chalk cliffs which started forming 145 million years ago.</p>
<p><img title="white cliffs" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/rock-ledge.jpg?cb=6E672B1A-DCDC-872D-6F803C041FFA876A" alt="white cliffs" width="800" height="533" /></p>
<p>About three hundred years ago, the French had a small fort nearby named Fort Tombecbe. The University of West Alabama conducts living history programs here, archaeological volunteer opportunities and tours.</p>
<p>“We anchored at mile marker 248, not far from the cliffs, in the Tombigbee River at the entrance to a little bay and stern-tied to the shore. Inside the bay was some abandoned, very rusty equipment. It appeared to be a barge loading area at one time although now the entrance was partially blocked off. The bay itself looked like it was man-made.</p>
<p><img title="rusty barge" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/houseboat-around-trees-in-the-water.jpg?cb=6E672B16-02E9-0DA8-006AEC5B1DDED556" alt="rusty barge" width="800" height="509" /></p>
<p>“Three men in a small boat approached the bay. When Fred spoke briefly to them, he thought they said they were going in to do something with traps. My mind wandered, and I could just imagine them doing something illicit. A still maybe? What would they be trapping? Crawfish?</p>
<p>“They left after a while and we enjoyed a lovely, quiet evening in the aft cockpit, listening to the crickets. There were clouds of little gnats flying around, a few mosquitoes, and other bugs. We were so glad we have our screens.</p>
<p><img title="nimbus boat anchored" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nimbus-last-item-at-anchor.jpg?cb=6E672B1E-C0B5-4E01-781285184E581968" alt="nimbus boat anchored" width="800" height="500" /></p>
<p>“It was almost dark when two of the men we’d seen earlier returned and went into the bay again. Now I was thinking ‘Deliverance’ and Fred was laughing at me. Again, they were there quite a long time, and it was pitch dark before they left.”</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: This post.</p>
<p>Update #18: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-the-gulf-of-mexico">On To The Gulf Of Mexico</a></p>
<p>Update #19: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-waiting-on-parts">Waiting On Parts</a></p>
<p>Update #20: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-the-end-of-our-great-loop">The End Of Our Loop</a></p> |
Last Item: Cruising In The Tenn-Tom |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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Here is the latest Great Loop update from Fred and Sidonia who are now cruising the Tenn-Tom waterway. |
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2022-10-24 00:00:00.0 |
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https://www.seattleyachts.com/news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom |
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<p><em>This is update #16 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Sidonia and Fred enjoyed their extended stay in Alton, which gave them a chance to explore the interesting sights of St. Louis, such as the zoo and Anheuser-Busch. As has been their standard practice, they like to get off the boat and see what there is to see at every new destination.</p>
<p>On that note, a common question we’ve received of their travels is how they find such interesting places to visit, whether they are museums, manufacturing plants, local attractions, or simply nice-to-see spots that help define an area. Sidonia was quick to respond to my inquiry.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Bill, for the most part, we ask Google ‘what is there to do in such-and-such city.’ Sometimes we hear about things from locals or other loopers. A few marinas print out information of local interesting sites. We particularly like touring places where they make things as well as historical places.</p>
<p>“I think some people are in too much of a hurry, and/or they don’t want the added expense of a rental car. A car has allowed us to venture much farther from the boat and see so much more, since it’s very doubtful we will come this way again.</p>
<p>“And our little electric bikes have been very helpful taking us away from the boat when we don’t have a rental car. Sometimes we happen upon a treasure we did not even know was there. —Sidonia”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>After finishing their tour of the Anheuser-Busch stables, and visiting up close with a Budweiser Clydesdale, the couple returned to their Nimbus cruiser, fueled up for the journey ahead, did some last-minute grocery shopping, and returned the rental car.</p>
<p>It was time to continue their Loop.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Wednesday, September 21, we took off from Alton at 6:45am, cleared the Melvin Price Lock by 7:30, and passed the Chain of Rocks lock by 9:30. The name Chain of Rocks seemed rather ominous ever since we heard that last year a boater mistakenly followed the river rather than diverting into the canal to the lock. His sailboat got stuck on the Chain of Rocks dike and sank. Even though the two people aboard were rescued, we were glad to get past there.</p>
<p>“After leaving the lock, we had a long stretch of the Mississippi River in front of us. Once past the St. Louis industrial area, it became miles and miles of uninhabited riverbanks. Other than having to slow for the occasional barge or other boats, we cruised at 27–28 knots aided by a three-mph favorable current. We flew down the river, covering 128.7 miles in 8-1/4 hours.</p>
<p>“There was soon a 208-mile stretch in front of us with no place to refuel, so Fred arranged for a fuel truck with Charles at Kidd River City Fuel in Cape Girardeau, MO for what is considered an emergency fuel stop. There is a 150-gallon minimum. The company maintains a small barge to tie up to and the fuel comes to the barge from his truck. He said it was premium price, but at $4.88/gal, it was 70 cents less than the last time we filled up, so we were thrilled. He also gave us permission to spend the night here and told us where the key to the gate was hidden, in case we wanted to go to town. If it hadn’t been so awfully hot and muggy, we would have enjoyed getting off the boat, but all we wanted to do was sit in the air conditioning.”</p>
<p><img title="fueling up" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/kidd-fuel-dock-at-cape-girardeau.jpg?cb=37B63FF1-F903-1E72-906624C112B7F8D9" alt="fueling up" width="800" height="450" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Cape Girardeau is a city in Missouri originally established as a trading post around 1733. It is located about 100 miles southeast of St. Louis and 150 miles north of Memphis. Today, the city has a population of approximately 40,000 people, and is the economic hub for Southeast Missouri. Cape Girardeau is home of several universities and colleges and provides first-class medical facilities for three surrounding counties.</p>
<p><img title="mural at cape girardeau" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/mural-cape-girardeau-missouri.jpg?cb=37B63FEC-0C29-9766-F511FB5FD37DE020" alt="mural at cape girardeau" width="800" height="398" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Thursday, September 22, it was a nice relief to wake up with much cooler weather. Everyone has been complaining about the heat.</p>
<p>“After leaving Cape Girardeau, we soon said goodbye to the Mississippi River as we made a hairpin turn to the left into the Ohio River. The Ohio is every bit as wide as the Mississippi, at least where we were, but we lost our three-mph push as we were now going against the current.</p>
<p>“When we reached the Olmsted Dam & Lock, the lockmaster told us we had to wait about two hours for barge traffic to clear through. We anchored off to the side and were pleased that we only had to wait an hour and a half. We went in the small lock alongside a tow in the large lock. The large lock is 900 feet long and this barge and tow filled the entire lock. (Back in Illinois, when we saw our first tows, we were amazed that they were pushing up to nine barges at a time. Now we have seen as many as eighteen barges being pushed together.)</p>
<p><img title="large barge ship" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/barge-with-gravel.jpg?cb=37B6400B-EBF9-A0AD-4CBF3238FDF0BCFB" alt="large barge ship" width="800" height="512" /></p>
<p>“As we approached Paducah, Kentucky, we called Paducah City Marina. We were originally told they had no room for us. As we went by, however, we saw open slips, so I called again and they let us come in. The marina normally has room for about a dozen average Looper-size boats which seems small for a town the size of Paducah.</p>
<p>“Our timing was good as Paducah was hosting its Family Fun Days. There were lots of vendor tents set up all over the open area near the marina, as well as a stage where a band was setting up. We perused most of the tents and settled in one of the many bbq tents where we got a rack of ribs to take back to the boat for dinner.</p>
<p>Several of the boaters staying at the marina were local and brought their boats here to attend the Fun Days BBQ. It was a great local event.</p>
<p>“We woke to a chilly morning, the first time it really felt like fall. After breakfast on the boat, we hopped on our bikes and went to explore the town. Paducah was founded by William Clark (of Lewis & Clark) after he inherited the land grant from his brother. There is a questionable story that he named it after an Indian chief.</p>
<p><img title="marker for lewis and clark" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/marker-for-lewis-and-clark.jpg?cb=37B63FFA-E04C-FE83-A19744A43678E1FD" alt="marker for lewis and clark" width="800" height="586" /></p>
<p>“Paducah is a ‘walled city’ and the first thing we came to was a long section of the wall. Two years after a disastrous flood in 1937, work began on a wall to protect the city. Sections of the wall are removable and only put in place when a flood threatens. Much of the wall is now covered with wonderful murals depicting the history of Paducah and surrounding area. It is hard for us to imagine the Ohio River reaching the height of the walls as the steep bank leading up from the river is at least fifty feet high. The bank on the opposite shore is low and one would think all the water would run out over that side.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Paducah was in fact, settled some years before William Clark, but he is responsible for surveying the area and renaming the settlement Paducah in 1827. Contrary to local lore, there is no historical connection to its name commemorating a Native American chief or tribe.</p>
<p>Given its location on the Ohio River, it was only natural for the town to evolve into a center for the developing railroad and steamship industries that supported each other and brought a thriving economy to the town.</p>
<p>The Paducah Wall to Wall project began in 1996 to put murals on the flood walls in downtown Paducah, to illustrate local history of all aspects of river life and Native American history.<br />Today, Paducah is an artist and craft center, with international recognition by UNESCO and art organizations for its impact on the world’s art. Music also has roots in Paducah, home for the Luther Carson Center for the Performing Arts. Many musicians grew up or lived for awhile in the Paducah area.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“As frequently happens, we are asked about our electric bikes. After chatting about our bikes with a man setting up his booth near the wall, he suggested we have breakfast at The Gold Rush Cafe. We told him we had already eaten but he said we should at least go there for their ‘dessert’ of bread pudding waffles.</p>
<p>“Naturally, we had to try them. There was a lineup at the café, but we ordered personal-size portions of the waffles to go so we didn’t have to wait long. We continued our ride through the nice downtown area, enjoying the architecture of the old buildings. Back at the boat, we ate our bread pudding waffles, covered in sweetened butter and syrup. Mmm-mmm-good.</p>
<p>“We got under way again a little before 11:00. Very shortly, we passed the entrance to the Tennessee River. Instead of turning into the Tennessee, however, we continued a little farther up the Ohio River and then turned into the Cumberland River. We saw fishermen aiming bows and arrows into the water. We pulled over to talk to a couple of them and learned they were shooting carp. One of them reached down and lifted a good-sized carp to show us.</p>
<p>“We could have continued down the Tennessee River but there is a lock where pleasure boaters usually must wait. The Cumberland route is a little longer, but as it turned out, we also had to wait at the Barkley Lock and Dam for nearly two hours. Almost immediately after exiting the dam, we were in Barkley Lake and made the turn into Green Turtle Bay Marina in Grand Rivers, Kentucky.</p>
<p><img title="green turtle bay marina" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/green-turtle-bay-social-area.jpg?cb=37B6400F-DDAD-8CA4-2CE7141AA409DA42" alt="green turtle bay marina" width="800" height="524" /></p>
<p><em>(Above: Nearly all boaters have a social/party area at their slips at Green Turtle Bay.)</em></p>
<p>“The first boat we spied at one of the docks was ‘Uncle Wiggly,’ with our friends Roger and Marilyn. We had not seen them since the Trent-Severn Canal but had kept in touch. We docked right next to ‘C-Marie,’ with Kathy and James who we also met earlier.</p>
<p>“Originally, we were told we could stay here only one night but somehow, one of the marina staff worked his magic. He got us a second night though we would have to change slips, which was no problem. The marina gives a discount to Loopers and our cost for 45’ was only $136 for two nights.</p>
<p>“The weather on this Saturday, September 25, was still warm in the mid-80s. Air conditioning is definitely needed on a boat doing the Great Loop in season.</p>
<p>“All along the Loop, people tell us about the places we should visit. In Grand Rivers, that place is Patti’s 1880’s Settlement. Patti’s runs a four-seat golf cart shuttle that picked Roger, Marilyn and us up at the marina. After about a ten-minute drive along a shady road, we arrived.</p>
<p>“Patti’s started in the late ‘70s as a hamburger and ice cream parlor. Today, the restaurants of Patti’s include several very large sections of buildings, divided into different sized rooms, some small and some larger. There is a big gift shop with a great variety of items.</p>
<p><img title="Pattis restaurant" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/outside-pattis.jpg?cb=37B64006-AF5A-4AE2-427FF1A01B4DC845" alt="Pattis restaurant" width="800" height="800" /></p>
<p>“Patti’s claim to fame is their 2-inch pork chop which everyone says will feed at least four people. We did not try it, but our lunches were very good and our dessert was the ‘mile high lemon meringue pie’ with six inches of meringue on top.</p>
<p><img title="dessert at Patti's" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/ralph-and-marilyn-at-pattis.jpg?cb=37B64002-A431-2D64-C6A1676B3C2F3F83" alt="dessert at Patti's" width="800" height="546" /></p>
<p>“After lunch, we strolled along the lovely, wooded pathways which connect different shops and buildings, all part of the Patti’s sprawling property. We sampled several specialty liquors in the Moonshine Shop. There is also a small petting zoo, a putt putt golf course and much more. They have nearly 250 employees, which is almost the population of the town.</p>
<p>“In the evening, Roger, Marilyn, Kathy, and James came over for happy hour. Because it was so warm outside, we sat around our saloon table in the cool cabin. Kathy invited us to later tour their 47-foot Great Harbor trawler. So, after happy hour, we strolled over to their boat. It is always fun and interesting to view other boats. Their trawler was very nicely done, comfortable and roomy, perfect for living aboard, which they do.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The next stop for Last Item would be to continue in the connecting lakes and rivers and stop at the well-known Paris Landing State Park in Buchanan, Tennessee. Situated on Kentucky Lake, it is an 840-acre park on the western shore of the largest man-made lake in the U.S. east of the Mississippi. The park has been developed to be a perfect family playground, complete with all matter of watersports, a golf course, a lodge, and hiking and walking trails throughout.</p>
<p>The lake was created in 1944 by the Tennessee Valley Authority for flood control and hydroelectric generation.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“After a good breakfast at the marina restaurant with Roger and Marilyn, we fueled up, pumped out, and left Green Turtle Marina at 10:30. Within just a few minutes, we had turned out of Barkley Lake into Barkley Canal and popped out in Kentucky Lake, known as Ken Lake by the locals. There was no sign of habitation on the eastern shore and very little on the western shore as we traveled the 40 miles to Paris Landing State Park Marina.</p>
<p>“After arriving, we rode our bikes across the highway to the Lodge at Paris Landing for lunch. The 91-room lodge is very modern looking, has a nice restaurant, swimming pool, and is right on the lake. There is an 18-hole golf course nearby.</p>
<p>“Near the marina, the parks department also maintains a small aviary which we stopped to visit. They had three owls and a red-tailed hawk. They had all been injured. Though rehabilitated, they are not able to be released, so they are part of the education programs offered by the park.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Last Item has been running well for Sidonia and Fred, and the <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> 405 Coupe stands out as they travel along the Great Loop with so many other boats. So, it is no surprise that she attracts attention among those curious about this style of boat on a trip that is traditionally aligned with displacement <a href="../../../../used-trawler-yachts-for-sale/">trawlers</a> and slower motoryachts.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On numerous occasions, people ask us questions about our boat. Usually, the first question is ‘How do you like it?’ We can honestly answer, ‘We love it.’</p>
<p>“When I first got aboard, I mentioned to Bill Parlatore that I thought it was tender. He reminded me that I was used to a 62-footer. He was right. I now don’t notice at all what I thought was ‘tenderness.’ I think the Swedish designers of this boat did a fantastic job of incorporating comfort, great use of space, the inclusion of large overhead windows which open, and the dining table that swivels in any direction as well as folds in half. One of my favorite features is the end section of the sofa that flips over to become a forward-facing two-person-size seat.</p>
<p>“Just this morning at breakfast, Roger asked whether we would use this boat if we ever did The Loop again and if we’d had any problems with it. The following is what Fred told him of the extent of our problems since taking delivery and after 186 engine hours and over 2,200 miles:</p>
<p>“We had a very piercing alarm, the source of which we could not find. It required a call to Seattle Yachts who guided me to the propane alarm which obviously malfunctioned since we have no propane aboard. Another issue was the light indicating a 3/4 full blackwater holding tank which did not go out after the tank was pumped out. I accessed the top of the tank where there is an 8-inch screw cap and just inside was a float switch. After a sharp tap on the switch, it has not been a problem since. These are the only real problems we’ve had.</p>
<p>“We have had a couple of anomalies, however. One was the generator touch screen which is used to start the generator. One morning it was blank, and I couldn’t figure out how to start the generator without the control panel on the screen. I could do an emergency start on the generator but elected to wait until the end of the day’s run. At the end of the day, everything was back to normal and has been fine since.</p>
<p>“Another anomaly was the Volvo Penta display which indicated a low transmission pressure warning. I acknowledged the warning and proceeded to dock, fearful all night that we might be down to one engine. The next day, when we took off, I monitored the transmission’s pressure closely but there was never another issue.</p>
<p>“As far as maintenance is concerned, at 135 engine hours, I elected to have the oil and oil filters changed as well as the fuel filters, both primary and secondary. I have scheduled a 200-hour engine service when we get to Mobile, Alabama.”</p>
<p>“Roger is a very experienced boater himself. He and Marilyn have sailed the Bahamas and completed The Loop. After telling him all the above, he said if he were to do The Loop again, he would choose a boat like ours for the speed as well as functionality. We were quite surprised at this comment, because they have a comfortable <a href="../../../../used-yachts-for-sale/kadey-krogen-yachts">Krogen</a> 42, so we consider this to be the ultimate compliment.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Paris Landing Marina is a large marina with almost 300 slips. And it is an ideal protected place to leave the boat for a few days and rent a car to explore the area. And that was the plan for Sidonia and Fred, to get off the boat for a bit and see what there is to see.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Monday, September 26, we arranged for a rental car. Unfortunately, Enterprise couldn’t pick us up at the marina, so we called a taxi to take us into the town of Paris which is about 20 minutes away. Our driver was a real character, and one would have thought he came right out of the hills but he was actually from Detroit. The taxi was a junker, but it got us there.</p>
<p>“After getting our car, we played nine holes at Paris Landing State Park Golf Course, which was very nice. We then took Ron and Linda (‘Gypsy Soul’) into Paris to pick up their rental car.</p>
<p><img title="golfing" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/golf-course-paris-landing-state-park.jpg?cb=37B64013-AA90-1732-EBA110847D4C8E39" alt="golfing" width="800" height="533" /></p>
<p>“We later had Brian and Loral from ‘Port-a-gee’ and Ron and Linda over for happy hour and good conversation.</p>
<p>“It has been quite windy the past couple of days and on Tuesday morning the winds continued. There are even whitecaps on Kentucky Lake. Safe and secure in its slip, we left the boat and took off in the rental car at 9:00 and drove into Nashville. We booked a motel close to downtown and then walked to a tour trolley stop for which we already had tickets. The trolley makes 13 planned stops, and you can hop on/hop off as much as you want.</p>
<p>“We hopped off on Broadway, which is Music Row, a most appropriate name. There were throngs of people on the sidewalks and music coming from every restaurant and bar along the street. The musicians who play in these places do not get paid. They do it for tips and the hope of being discovered.</p>
<p><img title="broadway street" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nashville-broadway-street.jpg?cb=37B6401B-9066-7001-89E6FEDD94845B59" alt="broadway street" width="800" height="906" /></p>
<p>“After a bite of lunch, we toured Ryman Auditorium. First known as Union Gospel Tabernacle, it was renamed for Thomas Ryman who had it built. It was where Grand Ole Opry first started performing their radio shows.</p>
<p>“We hopped back on the trolley again and got off at the Hermitage Hotel to see its beautiful lobby. Gene Autry used to stay here and would not only rent a room for himself but also rent a room for Champion, his horse. Supposedly, Champion cracked a couple of the marble floor tiles with his hooves, but we couldn’t tell as there were cracks all over the place. We finished our trolley tour and went back to have a quick rest before dinner and the Grand Ole Opry.</p>
<p><img title="grand ole opry" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/grand-ole-opry-house.jpg?cb=37B64023-A95D-F9DD-D85B1184EFC78D5D" alt="grand ole opry" width="800" height="546" /></p>
<p>“We drove to the Opry grounds and had dinner at The Aquarium right across the street. Our table was right next to a huge tank full of a great variety of tropical fish. We sat mesmerized watching them swimming around and through the nicely done fake coral. It didn’t really matter that the food was just okay, as the atmosphere more than made up for it.</p>
<p><img title="aquarium restaurant" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/aquarium-restaurant.jpg?cb=37B6401F-F04A-21F0-57CBE1B663D016C6" alt="aquarium restaurant" width="800" height="541" /></p>
<p>“The present Opry venue holds 4,400 people and even at this time of year and on a Tuesday night, it was close to capacity. There were seven performers, I was familiar with three of them. Two were from the ‘50s and ‘60s, and the third is contemporary. We enjoyed an act by a comedian who had everyone in stitches.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“The next morning, Fred wanted to see the Knights in Armor exhibit at the Frist Art Museum, while I wanted to go to the Country Music Hall of Fame. So, we parked in between the two locations and went our separate ways.</p>
<p><img title="country music hall of fame" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/country-music-hall-of-fame.jpg?cb=37B64017-95B7-C8DA-6186D936F6EA1D27" alt="country music hall of fame" width="800" height="488" /></p>
<p>“The CM Hall of Fame is full of memorabilia, clothing, and musical instruments of nearly every big-name country singer there ever was. Elvis’ gold-plated Cadillac was there as well as Webb Pierce’s 1962 Pontiac Bonneville, with pistols for door handles and other custom additions. There were many videos showing singers from as far back as the 1920s.</p>
<p>“I could have spent much more time watching the various videos but, when I checked in with Fred, he said the Frist Museum was closed on Wednesdays, so he was just waiting for me. He had used some of his time to visit the beautiful lobby of the Union Station Hotel which had originally been Nashville’s train station.</p>
<p>“After leaving Nashville, we drove to Clarksville to visit the Old Glory Distillery.</p>
<p><img title="old glory distillery" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/old-glory-distillery.jpg?cb=37B64027-CE72-17F0-7179082D38269291" alt="old glory distillery" width="800" height="529" /></p>
<p>It is a very new distillery and, at present, only sells to a few local liquor stores. But the distillery intends to expand its market. We had essentially a private tour as we were the only ones there and we learned about the difference between bourbon and whiskey. After the tour, we were able to taste the difference between the two, plus a few more samples of their products. We did not come away empty handed.”</p>
<p><img title="fred at the distillery" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fred-at-the-distillery.jpg?cb=37B6402B-ADF6-81F5-777C4FB16BB54563" alt="fred at the distillery" width="800" height="572" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Back in the marina, the winds continued to blow but the temperatures moderated to the mid-70s, ideal for this time of year. So, the next day, they drove the rental car an hour south along the lake to the Tennessee River Fresh Water Pearl Farm and Museum. It was a disappointment, as the operations is much smaller these days, and the farm, for the most part, only raises mussels and sends the shells to Asia. They learned that the pearly parts of the shell are cut into the desired shapes, round, potato, triangular, and these pieces are poked into oysters. The oyster then forms the pearl around the inserted shape.</p>
<p>On the drive back to Paris Landing, they enjoyed the winding, scenic route through the countryside, with very few houses and no cars. Just fields of feed corn left to dry in the fields before harvesting.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We decided to stay in the Paris Landing Marina an extra day on this last day in September, as Roger and Marilyn on ‘Uncle Wiggly’ wanted us to meet them for dinner at Cypress Springs Resort. We had nothing else planned for the day, so we played golf again at the state park course which we both liked very much.</p>
<p>“Roger and Marilyn are still docked back at Green Turtle Bay and drove down with another Looper couple, Chris and Cheryl on ‘Nautic Venture.’ As always, we had a very enjoyable dinner with the two couples, though both Fred and I decided we aren’t fans of cornmeal-dipped fish, which is how it is served everywhere around here.</p>
<p>“After doing a thorough boat cleaning this morning, we returned our rental car. As it was Saturday, we timed it so that one of the Enterprise employees would drive us back to the marina just before he got off work at noon. We really did not want to take the clunker taxi again.</p>
<p>“We rode our bikes over and had a nice lunch at the lodge one last time and then took off at 1:00. The plan was to go down Kentucky Lake, about 40 miles, to an anchorage Fred had found on Navionics. The ride down the lake was lovely, although I had been hoping for a little autumn color in the trees but only a few have started to turn.</p>
<p>“We started to ease our way into the little inlet where Fred had planned to anchor but when the depth under the transducer got down to 2.5 feet, we quickly backed off, leaving a cloud of mud. We continued and tried another inlet that looked promising but found the same situation. The river is lower than normal but on our third try, we got into a nice inlet 50 miles south of Paris Landing near Bunker Hill and anchored in 6 feet of water. While we could see some houses from our peaceful vantage point, we mostly felt totally alone with only a great egret as our neighbor and a beautiful crescent moon overhead.</p>
<p>“On Sunday, we woke to another gorgeous morning. We raised anchor and left at 9:30 and leisurely cruised down toward Clifton. Along the way we saw trees growing in the river, still alive after the Kentucky Dam, built in 1944, flooded the area now known as Kentucky Lake.</p>
<p><img title="elevated houses" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/elevated-homes-along-river-in-tennessee.jpg?cb=37B6403D-049C-587F-EB8D43B2A39F375C" alt="elevated houses" width="800" height="485" /></p>
<p>“Ken Lake narrowed down and became the Tennessee River with some lovely rock formations along its banks.</p>
<p><img title="rock formations" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/tennessee-rock-formation.jpg?cb=37B64039-B3E4-EB0F-D631659578CFA552" alt="rock formations" width="800" height="478" /></p>
<p>In anticipation of high water, most people along the river with vacation property build tall, sturdy open sheds where they park their RVs, while others have their homes on stilts.</p>
<p>“We stopped at the Clifton RV and Marina Bar & Grill for lunch.</p>
<p><img title="clifton marine center" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/clifton-marine-park.jpg?cb=37B6402F-FCC2-B997-B7EE5CFF60A7181E" alt="clifton marine center" width="800" height="478" /></p>
<p>The marina is tucked into a tiny inlet and has a cozy restaurant alongside. We could hear good country music coming from the bar and grill, performed by an older couple. The woman had a wonderful voice, a little like Patsy Cline, and he played the guitar. What a treat, a good burger and good music too.</p>
<p><img title="Bar at Clifton" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bar-at-clifton-marine-park.jpg?cb=37B64035-A6B8-3798-EAC11189076B6FB3" alt="Bar at Clifton" width="800" height="545" /></p>
<p>“We continued and anchored behind an island in the middle of the river. The nearest landmark was the town of Savannah, TN.”</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: This post.</p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising Into The Tenn-Tomm</a></p>
<p>Update #18: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-the-gulf-of-mexico">On To The Gulf Of Mexico</a></p>
<p>Update #19: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-waiting-on-parts">Waiting On Parts</a></p>
<p>Update #20: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-the-end-of-our-great-loop">The End Of Our Loop</a></p> |
Last Item: In The Middle Of The Country |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
The Great Loop |
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The latest update from Fred and Sidonia on their Great Loop Trip. This update finds them cruising in Tennessee. |
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2022-10-08 00:00:00.0 |
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The Great Loop |
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Rob Bowman |
News |
2022-09-29 00:00:00.0 |
2022-09-29 00:00:00.0 |
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<p><em>This is update #15 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Sidonia and Fred arrived on Friday, September 9 at the Heritage Harbor Marina in Ottawa, just a couple of miles beyond the Marseilles lock on the Illinois River. A nice marina but a bit far from the city of Ottawa, which sits at the confluence of the Illinois and Fox Rivers. The couple really wanted to visit the downtown.</p>
<p>The city of almost 19,000 people was the site of the first debate between Abraham Lincoln and Stephen A Douglas in 1858. Douglas was the leader of the Democratic Party at the time and was resolute in his accusations that Lincoln was secretly involved in efforts to abolish slavery.</p>
<p>Among other attributes that define Ottawa, it is well known for its high-quality sand which contributed to its increasingly important status in the sand and glass industry for over 100 years.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We wanted to check out the town of Ottawa so on Saturday we moved the two miles down river and tied to the city’s wall. The Ottawa wall is only 100 feet long and not in great condition, but it is free to visitors, has electricity, and we were comfortable there.</p>
<p>“As we rode our bikes along the wall’s pathway on our way into town, Fred spotted a furry critter run into the bushes beside us. He later explained what he saw to a local man sitting nearby, who said it could be a groundhog. After looking at a picture of Punxsutawney Phil, we confirmed that Fred had indeed seen a groundhog.</p>
<p>“We rode past Washington Square, which is a very historical spot. Abraham Lincoln debated here in 1858 with Stephen Douglas.</p>
<p><img title="abraham lincoln plaque" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lincoln-douglas-debate-plaque.jpg?cb=6390B8EE-BC02-379E-0B1C69BA26DBC08F" alt="abraham lincoln plaque" width="800" height="1020" /></p>
<p>It was the first of seven debates for the senatorial race which Lincoln ended up losing. Estimates about the number in attendance for this debate are between 10,000 and 12,000. The statues of Lincoln and Douglas are surrounded by a lovely fountain in the middle of the park.</p>
<p><img title="fountain" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lincoln-fountain.jpg?cb=6390B8F2-9DA5-2F1C-BFAFC41F944F69DC" alt="fountain" width="800" height="634" /></p>
<p>There are also historic murals painted on some of the buildings in town.</p>
<p><img title="mural" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lincoln-mural.jpg?cb=6390B8F7-EE0D-A63C-ABCEDB1C806C926F" alt="mural" width="800" height="587" /></p>
<p>“We had a very good lunch at B.A.S.H. Burger and Sushi House. Seemed like a very strange menu combination but the restaurant was very nice, had good food and every table was filled, inside and out.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The next morning, as predicted, the rain started just before sunrise, accompanied by thunder and lightning. It rained steadily for two days, so the couple mostly stayed on the boat, only venturing out to visit a local pub for lunch and watch a football game between the Chicago Bears and San Francisco 49ers. They also stopped to enjoy Thai food at a nearby restaurant. Otherwise, they stayed cozy inside the boat, watching movies, something they rarely do.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“The Ottawa wall is nearly underneath the Veterans’ Memorial Bridge. After being there for three days, Last Item was very dirty. Fred hosed the worst of it off and then we took off at 7:00. Starved Rock lock is about six miles from Ottawa, and we were about halfway there when we heard that we wouldn’t be able to get through the lock until at least 8:30.</p>
<p>“We slowed to a crawl and watched white pelicans, great egrets, and great blue herons standing in the shallows. When we got closer to the lock, we dropped our anchor at the side of the channel.</p>
<p>We passed by a huge BioUrja Renewables plant, the largest industrial facility we’ve seen on the trip. This corporate giant deals with a variety of commodities from fuel to animal feed.</p>
<p><img title="renewable energy plant" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bio-urja-renewable-plant.jpg?cb=6390B90D-E8CB-149C-525504A6F0EA8EA0" alt="renewable energy plant" width="800" height="528" /></p>
<p>“A towboat with a long load of barges sat at the entrance to the lock facing upriver. We did not understand why he was just sitting there, as it was almost 9:00, but then he started moving toward us. All the waiting Looper boats were well off to the side of the channel to stay out of its way. As we finally got under way, there were close to a dozen Loopers entering the locks, so we rafted with two other boats. Four boats immediately behind us were rafted together as were even more boats rafted behind them.</p>
<p><img title="boats rafted up together" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/boats-lined-up.jpg?cb=6390B8FC-EAE4-13CD-BF32E0E045DE90A0" alt="boats rafted up together" width="800" height="446" /></p>
<p>“We passed by Starved Rock State Park and would like to have been able to visit it as it is said to be very beautiful. There is a small marina there but there is no way to get into the interior of the park without a car. Back in the 1760s, as the story goes, the Illinois and Pottawatomie tribes were attending a native council. One of the Illinois braves killed Chief Pontiac of the Pottawatomie tribe, which caused a battle between them. The Illinois took refuge on a great rock here, which was then surrounded by the Pottawatomie, where the Illinois tribe held out until they died of starvation. In 1966, the park became a National Historic Landmark.</p>
<p>“It seems we’ve also entered bald eagle country. We saw lots of them today as well as many pelicans. The wading pelicans, herons, and gulls are clear signs that it is very shallow out of the channel. We saw many missing buoys which had likely been mowed down by barge traffic. Whenever we passed a barge in this area, we hugged its side to make sure we stayed inside the channel.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Next stop for Last Item is Peoria, the largest city on the Illinois River. With a population of 113,000 people, it is a major trading and shipping center for many surrounding agricultural products grown in the area, including corn, soybean, and livestock. And it is also a manufacturing center for farm, building materials, and construction equipment. In fact, until 2018, Peoria was the national headquarters for Caterpillar.</p>
<p>And Peoria is known for its culture. The Peoria Symphony Orchestra is the 14th largest in the country, and there are well-known ballet companies and community and professional theaters in the area.</p>
<p>There is a great wealthy of talent, artistic expression, and manufacturing capability in the heartland of our country.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We ran 65 miles today and arrived in Peoria at 1:30. We found the municipal dock is free, has power, but is not very well maintained. There were only two spaces that would accommodate our size boat and they were both taken. We went into one of the other slips, but our boat stuck out about five feet. Gator on ‘Side Tracked,’ who we met back in Trenton, was also there and his boat hung out about five feet as well. Gator came over to help us tie up and then we found we could not get off our boat very easily. Our stern hung out well beyond the slip and the finger pier was too low to allow us to easily (and safely) step off the side of the boat.</p>
<p>“We used a folding wooden chair as a step stool to get off the boat and then walked a few blocks into town. The museum and planetarium were closed and while the Caterpillar Visitors Center looked closed and empty, the doors were open. But the only room we could visit was the merchandise shop. Fred bought a Cat T-shirt since we have Caterpillar engines in our big boat back in Anacortes.</p>
<p>“We walked a little farther and came upon a Holocaust Memorial. There were eighteen star-shaped glass cases lining a pathway and each one was filled with buttons for a total of six million buttons. Each button represents one of the six million Jews who died in the holocaust. There were also five triangular glass cases also filled with another five million buttons representing those killed who were not Jewish.</p>
<p><img title="holocaust museum" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/peoria-holocaust-museum.jpg?cb=6390B900-D17A-30B6-E12D72CBB0C64853" alt="holocaust museum" width="800" height="425" /></p>
<p>“The sheer number of buttons had much greater impact than all the other times we’ve seen the numbers of those killed. The buttons were collected by children and other groups around the country. It was an extremely moving memorial.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The next move was to continue south to Alton, Illinois, some 178 miles south of Peoria. It would make a good home base for several days so they could explore the surrounding area, including St. Louis, Missouri, a 22-mile drive away from the marina by car.</p>
<p>Once past the Peoria lock, there are not many marine services or marinas for quite a while, so they needed to fuel up before continuing south. They would likely need to spend at least one night anchored in the Illinois River before reaching Grafton, where the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers converge.</p>
<p>Grafton is best remembered as one of the sleepy little towns devastated by the Great Flood of 1993, when the riverbanks overflowed to record levels and the surrounding areas were flooded out from April to October. Grafton was above flood stage for 195 days, forcing most of the residents to leave. The waters rose an unbelievable 38.2 feet, fully 20+ feet above flood stage.</p>
<p>Alton, their planned destination, was also hit hard, as the Mississippi topped out at 42.7 feet above normal. It is hard to imagine such devastation.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Sunday, September 14, we found the only place we could buy fuel was back at the Illinois Yacht Club which we passed yesterday on our way to Peoria. We backtracked the four miles to get there and filled our tanks as there would be no more fuel stops for 168 miles.</p>
<p>“We were at the Peoria lock by 9:30 but had to wait for three hours for barges to get through. A former towboat operator later explained to us that when the load of barges is too long for the lock, the towboat pushes part (or half) the load to the riverside, secures it and then takes the other half though the lock and secures it to the shore there. Then the boat turns around, goes back through the lock and picks up the other half of the load, comes through and reattaches the two loads together. No wonder it takes two to three hours!</p>
<p><img title="ferry" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/ferry-on-illinois-river.jpg?cb=6390B912-A7D7-3DE1-BDF2D0EB15B18583" alt="ferry" width="800" height="465" /></p>
<p>“Once we were in the lock, several more boats radioed the lockmaster that they were only about 20 minutes away and would he please wait until they got there? We finally got out of the lock at 1:00. We made pretty good time after that, slowing only to pass four big barges, an occasional fisherman, no-wake zones, and other pleasure boats. There are no marinas along this long stretch of the Illinois River so a little after 4:00pm, we anchored about a quarter of a mile upstream from the La Grange lock along the edge where the river was a little wider.</p>
<p>“We had been on the water for 7-1/2 hours, only underway 4-1/2 hours, and covered 76 miles.</p>
<p>“As far as we could see, there was nothing on shore but tree-lined river. It was so peaceful, the only sounds were cicadas in the trees and some birds singing. Through a break in the trees, we could see a berm, which prevented us from seeing anything beyond. We saw corn fields behind the trees in other spots along the river.</p>
<p>“We spent a lovely, peaceful night alone in the river. A little before 8:00 the next morning, Thursday, September 15, six Looper boats arrived at the lock so we made ready and we all locked through together with no waiting for barges. We passed an Army Corps of Engineers work boat dredging the edge of the river, its massive pump spewing dredged mud along the banks. Other than seeing some wild turkeys and passing several barges, the river was quiet.</p>
<p>“Almost all the houses we passed were on stilts. The river levels are low right now and it’s amazing to think that it could rise nearly as high as the floors of those houses.</p>
<p><img title="houses on stilts" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/houses-above-flood-water.jpg?cb=6390B916-99BF-73C8-241E5B841B58B000" alt="houses on stilts" width="800" height="524" /></p>
<p>“Several times along the Illinois River, we saw small open boats, usually in pairs with a net strung between them. When the fishermen pulled in the net we could see them tossing fish into the boats.</p>
<p><img title="fishermen" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/buffalo-fishermen.jpg?cb=6390B91A-DFC2-9C07-7B3B76D73B0A3B96" alt="fishermen" width="800" height="533" /></p>
<p>We assumed they were Asian carp, but today we pulled up close enough to talk with a couple of the fishermen. They told us they were fishing for buffalo. Since we had never heard of buffalo fish, we thought they were joking. But they do fish for buffalo fish and supply the local fish markets. It is a mild, white fish that some think tastes even better than catfish. The fishermen do catch some carp as a by-catch.</p>
<p>“Twice we saw small ferries along very long stretches of river where there are no bridges to connect the two sides.</p>
<p>“We left the Illinois River near Grafton and arrived in the Mississippi River. Almost immediately, we noticed the east side of the riverbank lined with pretty limestone/dolomite cliffs. The cliffs continued all the way to Alton, Illinois, where we arrived at the Alton Municipal Marina a little after noon.</p>
<p><img title="sandstone cliffs" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/sandstone-cliff.jpg?cb=6390B91E-EEE3-61B3-2F68D774117FA29A" alt="sandstone cliffs" width="800" height="544" /></p>
<p>Alton Marina is a good-sized marina and nearly all the slips are covered, which is great as we plan to stay here for at least six days, and the temperatures are expected to remain in the ‘90s. We will use Alton as a home base and rent a car to visit the St. Louis area. How lucky we were to choose this marina, as we found they have a ‘stay three nights and get three nights free’ deal.</p>
<p>“Even without the free nights, this is the least expensive marina we have been in. It has a swimming pool and the usual amenities, and a small cafe where you can get a burger, a BLT, or a hot dog. We went for the BLT with a side of some delicious chicken salad.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Their itinerary included a lengthy visit to St. Louis, the second largest city in Missouri, located near the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. Today it has a population of 300,000 people, which, from 1870 to 1920, was the fourth largest city in the U.S.</p>
<p>St. Louis is home to several Fortune 500 companies, such as Anheuser-Busch and Wells Fargo, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture.</p>
<p>Among its many attractions, two stand out. The famous arch, the Gateway Arch, celebrates St. Louis as the gateway to the West, a tribute to the pioneers who headed westward and settled our country. Opened in 1965, the Gateway Arch is one of the most visited tourist attractions in the world. Over four million people visit it each year, and a million of those people take the trip up to the top of the monument.</p>
<p>The other remarkable must-see attraction is the St. Louis Zoo. The zoo is home for 14,000 animals, representing 500 species. It is a superb interpretation of the model zoo concept where the animals and people get to know each other in the most humane and sustainable way possible. It is no wonder some three million guests walk its grounds each year.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“This morning, September 16, we rented a car and drove 22 miles into St. Louis. It’s all about The Arch in this city, which is called The Gateway to the West. They built the Arch as a tribute to the expansion of the west. Lewis and Clark started their journey a few miles from here at Camp Dubois in Illinois, at the meeting of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers.</p>
<p><img title="st. louis arch" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/st-louis-arch.jpg?cb=6390B922-BA6E-193A-AE27330548D0BB4D" alt="st. louis arch" width="800" height="688" /></p>
<p>“We got our tickets to go to the top of the arch and just barely had time for a quick bite before our tour began. We were divided into eight groups of four people. We were #1. We stood on our #1 circle until it was time to enter tram door #1. The entry door is four feet high, so we crouched down and entered the tiny capsule which had five seats very close together. With four of us in the capsule it felt very crowded. This is not for a claustrophobic person.</p>
<p>“After everyone entered their respective numbered doors and seated, we started up the arch. For four minutes we jiggled our way to the top, ears popping all the way. Through a window in the door, we could see the inner workings of the arch, pipes, electrical cabling, and ventilation ductwork.</p>
<p>“We exited our capsule at the top of the arch, 630 feet in the air, and went to the little windows to look down on the city on one side and the Mississippi River on the other. We had about ten minutes to enjoy the view before going back down.</p>
<p><img title="top of the arch" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/view-from-arch.jpg?cb=6390B926-F738-8D32-96BDC407E15252A4" alt="top of the arch" width="800" height="867" /></p>
<p>“Back on the ground, we walked through the very nice museum. Then it was our turn to go into the theater and see the movie about building the arch. Though the arch itself was fun to go inside, the movie was even more fascinating and impressed upon us what an amazing feat it was to engineer and build. Not a single worker lost his life during its construction, even though the initial casualty estimate had been up to 13.</p>
<p>“On the boat in Alton, thunder, lightning, and pouring rain woke us the next morning. Though we probably could have used the rain to wash the dust off, we stayed completely dry under our covered slip.</p>
<p>“We had a golf game scheduled for the afternoon and by then the rain was long gone. We played at Woodlands Golf Club, which was nice.</p>
<p>“At happy hour, we met with several other Loopers for docktails. There are quite a few of us here and more on the way. Most boats only stayed a night or two, but there were always more Loopers to take their place.</p>
<p>“The next day we drove back to St. Louis to visit the St. Louis Zoo, which is supposed to be one of the better zoos in the country.</p>
<p><img title="st louis zoo" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/st-louis-zoo.jpg?cb=6390B92A-A9EF-32DF-EB1F1C66A9305E00" alt="st louis zoo" width="800" height="585" /></p>
<p>The habitats are nicely done for the animals although sometimes that makes it difficult to see them. Our favorite exhibit was the penguin area because we could get so close to them. If allowed, we could have touched them.</p>
<p><img title="emperor penguins" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/emperor-penguin.jpg?cb=6390B92E-CF67-C895-9292EC0A8A01C7F8" alt="emperor penguins" width="800" height="479" /></p>
<p>“For dinner, we went to Fast Freddie’s. We had been told that it was THE place to go. We drove by it several times in our travels, and though it didn’t look like much from the outside, the parking lot was always jammed with cars. This night was no different. The area inside was lit up with neon beer and other signs. A band played in one area and the music was piped throughout the large restaurant.</p>
<p>“There are only five items on the menu, and you eat with your fingers. The food was very good, but not what you would call a balanced diet as there wasn’t one vegetable other than a grilled green pepper on our kabob.</p>
<p>“We drove back to the city the next day to visit the Anheuser-Busch plant. Its huge buildings take up several blocks.</p>
<p><img title="anheuseur busch factory" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/anheuser-busch-clock-tower.jpg?cb=6390B932-D3DD-7ED2-80A7A0F3725C3134" alt="anheuseur busch factory" width="800" height="573" /></p>
<p>The visitor center is quite nice and incorporates a small museum. Our tour took us to the original stable and the bottling area. The history of Eberhard Anheuser and Adolphus Busch was very much like that of Frederick Pabst of Pabst Blue Ribbon. Anheuser bought a brewing company having financial problems in 1860. His son-in-law, Adolphus Busch, worked for him. As Busch took on more of the workload, Anheuser renamed the company Anheuser-Busch.</p>
<p><img title="wagon" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/anheuser-busch-wagon.jpg?cb=6390B936-CDDA-A712-19AF4DE5FB1D3939" alt="wagon" width="800" height="566" /></p>
<p>“In the bottling building, we took escalators up to the sixth floor where windows overlook the plant floor. We could see hundreds and hundreds of brown bottles slowly moving along a conveyor belt where over a thousand are bottled in one minute. Farther back in the area were hundreds of cases of beer. It takes less than two hours from bottling to completed cases. At the end of the tour, we were given a can of beer.</p>
<p>“The second tour was to the original stable. This stable is not used much anymore as the horses live offsite on farms. We had already been through it on the first tour, but this was a more in-depth tour with a big perk at the end.</p>
<p>“In 1933, six Clydesdale draft horses were given to August Busch by his sons to commemorate the end of prohibition of beer. The company arranged to have a second hitch of six sent to New York, loaded with cases of beer. A case was given to former New York governor Alfred E. Smith in appreciation for his fight against prohibition.</p>
<p><img title="clydesdale horse" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/clydesdale.jpg?cb=6390B93A-0BD1-0542-5811932BA2B4ADD6" alt="clydesdale horse" width="800" height="514" /></p>
<p>“The stable is beautiful. A ring of stalls surrounds a central area with a stunning solid brass chandelier overhead. A separate room is lined with more than a dozen glass cases enclosing the tack from retired horses. Each horse is custom fitted with its own tack and it costs $100,000 to outfit a hitch of eight horses. The hitch drivers have extensive training and must be physically fit as they must endure the horses pulling the forty pounds of lines that they hold.</p>
<p><img title="stables" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/center-of-stables.jpg?cb=6390B944-0CC9-2B91-74B93B039403D201" alt="stables" width="800" height="443" /></p>
<p>“The perk of this second tour is when one of the fabulous draft horses is brought out. Everyone on the tour can have a turn admiring, stroking, and talking to this beautiful animal and, of course, having their photo op. The horses are incredibly pampered, from their wonderful living quarters, special feed, and fancy traveling vehicles, to being thoroughly bathed, brushed, and combed from top to bottom.</p>
<p>“We all thought it would be rather nice to live life as a Budweiser Clydesdale.</p>
<p><img title="stables for busch clydesdales" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/stables.jpg?cb=6390B940-008A-C119-9F2462201CE10424" alt="stables for busch clydesdales" width="800" height="487" /></p>
<p>“Back on the boat in Alton, the 90-degree weather continued along with the humidity. We did some grocery shopping and then returned our rental car. We filled up with fuel for the long run to our next stop.</p>
<p>“We spent the rest of Tuesday in the air-conditioned comfort of our Nimbus Coupe.”</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: This Post</p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p>
<p>Update #18: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-the-gulf-of-mexico">On To The Gulf Of Mexico</a></p> |
Last Item: Exploring The Heartland |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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On their Great Loop trip, Fred and Sidonia are now heading into Peoria and Alton, Illinois. |
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<p><em>This is update #14 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>It is early September, and Sidonia and Fred have enjoyed their time in Wisconsin and all it has to offer the curious cruiser. But it is time to move on, and Chicago is next stop on the Loop map. As Kenosha is a suburb of Chicago, it is a quick trip down Lake Michigan’s western coast to reach the Chicago area, where they had made reservations at Belmont Harbor, the largest harbor in the Chicago Harbors system. With over 800 slips, the large facility is home to three yacht clubs, including <a href="https://www.chicagoyachtclub.org/" target="_blank">Chicago Yacht Club’s</a> own Belmont Station.</p>
<p>But before they left Kenosha ahead of the Labor Day weekend, they found the town inundated with classic cars and motorcycles. The 19th annual Classic Cruise-In was in town, attracting over 8,000 people to look at the collection of classic vehicles, which routinely exceeds 1,000 cars every year, according to the Kenosha News.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Yesterday, we learned that there was going to be a car show right near the marina. We both enjoy car shows, especially Fred. So, instead of getting under way at 9:00 as originally planned, we went to the car show. There were roughly four square blocks of cars on exhibit lining both sides of the street near the marina, all polished to perfection.</p>
<p><img title="Kenosha car show" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/kenosha-car-show.jpg?cb=356B4696-00E3-DD72-B3A94F7FA924E35E" alt="Kenosha car show" width="800" height="466" /></p>
<p>“Lake Michigan was as nice as one could ask for on the way to Chicago and we were docked at Belmont Harbor by noon. We couldn’t get over the density of the population here, block after block of high-rise condos and apartments. The good thing is the amount of open space all along the lakefront. There is a highway across the harbor from us, with the noise of constant traffic sounding like water rushing down a stream. Other than that, it is quite a peaceful place to be.</p>
<p><img title="downtown chicago by the water" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/sightseeing-boats.jpg?cb=356B469E-B16F-F146-198E02A146D5F742" alt="downtown chicago by the water" width="800" height="799" /></p>
<p>“The next morning was a rainy Sunday, September 4. We thought about going to the Willis Tower today. But the tops of the taller buildings were lost in the clouds. Everyone told us we needed to go to the Navy Pier instead. While we didn’t think it would be something we would enjoy, we took an Uber ride down to it.</p>
<p>“We were very glad to see that we could walk the entire length under a roof as it rained steadily. We strolled to the far end and back and then had a delicious fried chicken lunch at Art Smith’s Reunion Restaurant (former chef for Oprah and Jeb Bush).</p>
<p>“Later in the afternoon, we took a long bike ride along one of the waterfront pathways. I nearly got run down by a bicyclist going at about 30 miles an hour and then Fred took a tumble when we were crossing some grass. He hit a hole camouflaged by the grass. It took some skin off his arm but otherwise he was okay.</p>
<p>“We read articles in the <a href="https://www.greatloop.org/" target="_blank">AGLCA</a> forum about how bugs are a big problem here. Since our <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> Coupe is most always screened in, we haven’t noticed or suffered from a bug problem. But we have had lots of spiders over the past several weeks. Everyone complains about them. I don’t like spiders, but at least these are very small and seem to prefer staying on the outside of the boat, thank goodness.</p>
<p>“The problem is that they leave little smears of poop down the windows and on the outside cabin walls. They hide inside the upper window ledges where we can’t see them. The poop isn’t hard to get off, but it is a losing battle. Clean one day and there’s more the next. And when I untie a line from one of our cleats after being docked for a couple of days, two or three tiny spiders run out.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Spiders aside, there is a lot to experience in Chicago, and it is a shame so many Loopers rush through the area before they have time to see the interesting and unique sights. For many, the Willis Tower is the main attraction. For 25 years, it was the world’s tallest building when completed in 1974. Originally known as the Sears Tower, it is now the third tallest building in the Western Hemisphere. Its Skydeck observation deck attracts a million visitors each year, and is the highest such deck in the U.S.</p>
<p>But there are many other noteworthy attractions in the Windy City, and visitors can spend days or even weeks exploring this business and cultural center of the Midwest.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We extended our time on Monday so we could go up the Willis Tower, but there were no tickets available. As it turned out, the top of the building was still in the clouds and we would again not had a view of the city below.</p>
<p>“Though we were disappointed about the Willis Tower, it turned out to be a good thing. We decided to go to Fields’ Natural History Museum and we were so glad we did.</p>
<p><img title="natural history museum in chicago" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fields-natural-history-museum.jpg?cb=356B46A6-0859-D818-FB3CDF24BAB20D58" alt="natural history museum in chicago" width="800" height="545" /></p>
<p>What amazing collections they have! We saw Sue, the largest and most complete Tyrannosaurus rex ever discovered. It is over 40 feet long and stands 13 feet tall. Amazingly, the skeleton is over 90 percent complete.</p>
<p><img title="Hintze Hall - museum" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/hintze-hall.jpg?cb=356B46AA-C8AB-5D1B-BCEB74672C09E8F9" alt="Hintze Hall - museum" width="800" height="545" /></p>
<p>“The bird and animal collections are also wonderful and there is so much more. We were there for five hours and didn’t take it all in, but our backs began to complain.</p>
<p>“On Tuesday morning, we were excited to leave Chicago and start down the river system. We got an early start at 8:00. The first lock is between Lake Michigan and the start of the Chicago River. We had taken the tour through downtown Chicago before we arrived but it was still fun to do it in our own boat. Once we were out of the downtown area though, the interesting scenery turned into an industrial landscape for miles.</p>
<p><img title="nimbus cruising in chicago" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/asian-carp-signs.jpg?cb=356B46B7-EFA3-0BDE-B9116162622E5132" alt="nimbus cruising in chicago" width="800" height="467" /></p>
<p>“A sign posted alongside the canal told recreational boaters that we were passing the first electric fish barrier. These barriers were placed by the Army Corps of Engineers in 2010 to prevent the invasive Asian carp from getting into Lake Michigan and beyond. The expensive project is hoped to be at least 85 percent effective in stopping the fish from passing these barriers. While they do not electrocute the fish, they hopefully pose enough of a deterrent to keep the majority of these invasive carp from moving past the ship canal into Lake Michigan.</p>
<p><img title="electric fish sign" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/electric-fish-barriers.jpg?cb=356B46BB-A80B-11AD-0B1FBF9222916583" alt="electric fish sign" width="800" height="502" /></p>
<p>“We passed mountains of gravel on the land and endless lines of barges. The barges are filled with gravel, coal, and other material and they line the canal walls. Cranes work nonstop to move gravel to and from barges. The towboats (we don’t know why they are called towboats as they actually push the barges) push three or more pairs of barges at the same time up and down the waterway.</p>
<p><img title="big barge on great loop trip" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/600-foot-long-barge.jpg?cb=356B46BF-E356-54C3-B11745F411CAAE7D" alt="big barge on great loop trip" width="800" height="435" /></p>
<p>“We finally came to an empty stretch with nothing but bushes and trees lining the water’s edge. At some point, the Chicago River becomes the Des Plains River. By about 1:30, we were at Lockport, the second lock, but we were held up for over two hours while they shuffled commercial barges around. We were losing our enthusiasm for the waterway when the lockmaster called for all PCs (pleasure craft) to enter. It was a relief.</p>
<p>“The commercial locks are quite different from what we’ve been through in the Erie, Oswego, and Trent-Severn canals. They are 600 feet long and 110 feet wide. Instead of ropes or cables hanging down to grab, there are bollards the ‘float’ on the canal wall to loop your line around. Since the bollards are far apart, you can only loop around a bollard using a midship line. (Subsequent locks had lines hanging down as well as the bollards, but the lines are not secured to the bottom of the lock. You hang onto the line which slides through your hands on the way down. It makes it more difficult to stay close to the lock wall. Sometimes we had to use our own lines.)</p>
<p>“It took us 8-1/2 hours to go 38 miles. We tied to the wall in Joliet for the night with five other Loopers. The shorepower was free and there is even a small park alongside.</p>
<p>“We took off from the Joliet wall on Wednesday, September 7 at 8:00 only to learn that the Branden Road Lock was again closed between 6:00 am and 6:00 pm. While in Kenosha, we heard there would be a couple of random days of closure, but we never checked what those days were. So, we turned around and retied to the wall in Joliet. Most of the other Loopers had up to date information and transited the Branden lock before 6:00 am.</p>
<p>“Since we could not continue, we rode our bikes into town and had lunch at a very nice restaurant named ‘Juliet.’ We also passed by a lovely, old Rialto theater and the local courthouse. Old Joliet prison, reminiscent of ‘The Blues Brothers,’ would have been fun to see but it was too far away for us to get to on our bikes.</p>
<p><img title="Old Rialto Theater" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/rialto-theater.jpg?cb=356B46C7-AD6E-E455-3F726D3AF8136D00" alt="Old Rialto Theater" width="800" height="932" /></p>
<p>“The next morning brought another beautiful day, but we didn’t really know what to do with ourselves. There is a Harrah’s casino nearby but that is of no interest to us. We rode our bikes up to Haley House, hoping for a tour, but found they only do private wedding and special events. We kept riding through the area neighborhoods and found a very nice Mexican grocery store with great vegetables.</p>
<p><img title="Haley House" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/haley-house.jpg?cb=356B46C3-B1A0-24A7-35AA359C48C7DC21" alt="Haley House" width="800" height="563" /></p>
<p>“Back at the boat, it was about 1:30 when I noticed two of our fellow Looper boats leave the wall and head toward the Brandon lock. We quickly called the lock and were told there was an opening.</p>
<p>So, we raced around, unplugging and untying the boat and quickly took off. I also called Springbrook Marina, about 30 miles farther down the river, to make sure we had a place to stay for the night.</p>
<p>There was no way we could make it to Ottawa before dark. All went well and we locked through with ‘C-Marie’ and ‘Jolly Green.’”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Distances and perspectives are so different when viewed from the helm of a boat compared to how we normally travel in this part of the country. Springbrook Marina is only about an hour’s drive to Chicago by car yet is an entirely different experience by boat. The Lockport Lock and Dam complex is located at Mile Marker 291, for example, with the Brandon Road Lock and Dam at MM 286. Five miles is hardly noticeable when traveling by car, yet despite the high-speed capability of the Nimbus Coupe, one’s day must be planned around these locations, complicated by the travel constraints imposed by the ongoing work of the Army Corps of Engineers.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We were very happy to be on our way again. Once out of the Brandon lock, the industrial landscape soon faded into lush green riversides. There were very few barges tied along the edges and we passed only a couple of moving barges on our way southwest to Springbrook. We ran for just 3-1/2 hours and covered almost 30 miles.</p>
<p><img title="illinois river" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/algae-on-the-river.jpg?cb=356B46CB-F3A7-6FC8-6FB56D1CC4F54F56" alt="illinois river" width="800" height="537" /></p>
<p>“Springbrook Marina is a small but very nice marina and can accommodate boats of our size but not much bigger. They have a restaurant where we had a very good ribeye as we celebrated our 37th wedding anniversary. At dinner on the balcony, we struck up a conversation with another Looper couple who were just about at the end of their loop. There are many multiple-time Loopers and this couple planned on doing parts of it again.</p>
<p>“Before leaving the next morning, Fred went to the store at the marina to see if they had a replacement shear pin for the outboard. They didn’t have one, but they did have life jackets. All the locks from Chicago on down require you to wear a life jacket while outside your boat in the locks. I had forgotten to bring our nice inflatable ones and had to use the awful, bulky orange horse-collar kind.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>While the new one he bought isn’t inflatable, it is the same kind wake boarders and waterskiers use and so is much less bulky.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“As we prepared to get under way, Kevin, the marina service director, came by to say hello and to give us some helpful advice about the downriver canal leading into the Marseilles lock. There are no buoys to mark the shallow area, and the water on the south side of the canal gets down to one foot. There are rocks in these shallow waters, not mud. Kevin said many boats have returned to the marina for repairs. While he likes people to come back to his marina, he prefers it not be for this reason.</p>
<p>“We were lucky enough to come up on a towboat headed down the canal. It had no barges and Fred followed in its wake all the way. We knew the route this working boat took would also be good for us.</p>
<p>“The captain of the towboat asked us to enter the lock first and when he came in behind us, instead of putting his side to the wall and securing to a bollard like we did, he turned crossways, putting his bow against the wall and the captain kept the boat in gear the whole time the lock was emptying.</p>
<p><img title="towboat at Marseilles lock" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/towboat-in-marseilles-lock.jpg?cb=356B46CF-C144-4842-50B6FC9B04E7B17C" alt="towboat at Marseilles lock" width="800" height="404" /></p>
<p>“As we entered the harbor at Heritage Harbor Marina, about two mile past the Marseilles lock, we noticed several big splashes. We were seeing the dreaded Asian carp for the first time. As boats entered the marina harbor, it seems to excite the carp and they start jumping. From a distance, their silvery bodies look like the salmon we are used to seeing in the Pacific Northwest.</p>
<p>“By 11:30 we were safely docked at Heritage Harbor Marina in Ottawa and enjoying a nice lunch at the Red Dog Grill. All in all, it took us less that two hours to cover the 8 miles between Springbrook Marina and Heritage Harbor.</p>
<p>“Late that afternoon, we noticed a huge V formation of Canadian geese flying south, way overhead, high in the sky. Then another group followed, and then four more groups. There must have been close to a thousand geese all flying together. It was quite a sight.</p>
<p><em>(Below: Check out all of the Great Loop Boats on the app NEBO staying at the Heritage Harbor Marina!)</em></p>
<p><img title="great loop boats on app nebo" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/great-loop-boats-at-heritage-harbor-marina.jpg?cb=356B46D3-D1D6-D6EA-490638F4788EB366" alt="great loop boats on app nebo" width="787" height="988" /></p>
<p>“This is a sign of the change of seasons. Cooler weather is on the way.”</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: This Post</p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p>
<p>Update #18: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-the-gulf-of-mexico">On To The Gulf Of Mexico</a></p> |
Last Item: Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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Fred and Sidonia have moved into the Chicago, Illinois part of their Great Loop cruise. |
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<p><em>This is update #12 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>After enjoying the company and local knowledge of friends Walt and Tiggy, Sidonia and Fred were ready to move on from Fish Creek.</p>
<p>One of the issues the couple must deal with, as do all other Loopers currently on Lake Michigan, is the closure of the Brandon Road Lock and Dam. One of eight locks in the Illinois Waterway, these locks are well past their 50-year lifespan since they were built in the 1920–1930s.</p>
<p>Significant upgrades and repair work are scheduled to take place next summer in 2023, but some repairs are being done now, and the Brandon lock is not scheduled to fully reopen for commercial and recreational traffic until late September or early October. There may be some limited and restricted openings beginning in early September, but they will likely occur off hours, such as during a 6pm to 6am window. This is being carefully monitored.</p>
<p>Until then, there is no point rushing down Lake Michigan.</p>
<p>So, the crew of Last Item has slowed down their travel pace and will gunkhole down the Wisconsin coast in the interim, stopping every 25 miles or so. While they may stop at towns that are not traditional tourist stops, they do represent Americana at its best, slices of honest American life and industry, and worth of a visit on their own.</p>
<p>Over the course of nine days, Last Item only traveled about 125 miles down Lake Michigan, from Fish Creek to Port Washington, but still about 100 miles north of Chicago and the beginning of the Illinois Waterway. They hope it reopens as expected late September.</p>
<p>Once it opens, they will give the bunched-up Loopers several days to get through, and then take their time and continue south.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Friday, August 12th, we made the short jaunt from Fish Creek to Sturgeon Bay on a nice, calm Green Bay. Before reaching the marina, we passed the huge Fincantieri Bay Shipbuilding piers.</p>
<p><img title="fincantieri bay shipbuilding piers factory" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fincantieri-bay-shipbuilding.jpg?cb=8F2A8034-924D-D9CC-6B37D659CD4A8FEF" alt="fincantieri bay shipbuilding piers factory" width="800" height="471" /></p>
<p>FBS builds many different types of commercial and military vessels, and barges. These vessels include large warships, frigates, minesweepers, drug interdiction boats, floating barracks, as well as research and support ships for the Army, Navy, Coast Guard, law enforcement, and research organizations.</p>
<p>“We docked at Skipper Bud’s Harbor Club Marina next to the Michigan Street bridge. It is a good-sized marina and well kept.</p>
<p><em>(Below: Lighthouse at entrance to Sturgeon Bay Canal from Lake Michigan.)</em></p>
<p><img title="lighthouse at entrance to sturgeon bay" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lighthouse-entrance-to-sutrgeon-bay.jpg?cb=8F2A8058-DDB4-2A66-DF53A37CB774F351" alt="lighthouse at entrance to sturgeon bay" width="800" height="492" /></p>
<p>“We awoke the next morning after it rained all night. At around 6:00am, it started pounding down with lightning and thunder which lasted well into early afternoon. Needless to say, no one at the marina stirred. Even the mallards in the marina hid under the docks and the American white pelicans were bunched up together in the canal. When the rain eventually let up, there was a parade of people walking their dogs to make a fast trip on shore. We stayed aboard our <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> cruiser the entire day.</p>
<p>“The next morning proved a no-show as well. The rains from the previous day were replaced with gusty winds, far too strong to safely venture back out onto Lake Michigan. So, we stayed put for another day. At least it was nice enough to get off the boat and take a bike ride around town. Most of the shops near the marina were closed but we did have a nice lunch at Kitty O’Reilly’s. The grocery store and other shops were farther away than either of us wanted to go on our bikes.</p>
<p>“The Door County Maritime Museum is right next to Skipper Bud’s Harbor Club Marina.</p>
<p><img title="door county maritime museum" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/door-county-maritime-museum.jpg?cb=8F2A8038-BD12-CAE3-3F068D6226757D2A" alt="door county maritime museum" width="800" height="486" /></p>
<p>It was built to resemble a lighthouse, and each of its 10 floors is dedicated to some aspect of life of the Door County lakes: shipwrecks, life underwater, recreational boating, ship building, commerce, navigation, people of the water, the working waterfront, and an observation deck.</p>
<p><img title="view from museum" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/view-from-museum.jpg?cb=8F2A803C-0823-8B56-19E2B87FBF104F9C" alt="view from museum" width="800" height="497" /></p>
<p>It is all nicely done and not overwhelming. There is also the option to tour the 149’ tug ‘John Purves’ although it was closed when we were there.”</p>
<p><em>(Below: A machine used for seaweed control.)</em></p>
<p><img title="seaweed machine" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/seaweed-machine.jpg?cb=8F2A8040-DCC0-6ED4-613E9718976D912F" alt="seaweed machine" width="800" height="456" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The next obvious stop on their slow travels south was Kewaunee, another 28 or so miles from Sturgeon Bay. The seas were calm when Last Item made the run. They found there was no room at the local marina, but there was wall space (with power) across the river. They rode their bikes back over to the marina office to check in and then have lunch at the only restaurant open on Mondays, the Waterfront Grill.</p>
<p>By now the couple realized that during this trip, they tended to have lunch whenever they arrive at a new town. It is now their routine after they check in, and it works for them.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“After lunch, we rode our bikes along the wetlands/river trail loop past acres of cattails. We saw our first bald eagles of the trip, a pair of immatures performing mock air battles. The trail extends much farther but the loop was just the right distance for the charge of the batteries on our little bikes.</p>
<p>“Also docked against the wall is the 115-foot seagoing tugboat ‘Ludington.’</p>
<p><img title="tug boat named ludington" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/tug-boat-named-ludington.jpg?cb=8F2A805C-FF3A-95B8-C75FBED28F33364F" alt="tug boat named ludington" width="800" height="509" /></p>
<p>It was built in WWII and towed ammunition barges during the Normandy invasion of France in 1944. The tug is open for self-guided tours, so we climbed aboard.</p>
<p>“Though I don’t like the over-used word ‘awesome,’ I can’t think of a better way to describe the inner workings of this rugged, little ship. The engine room is a maze of pipes, valves, wiring, and mechanical equipment, not to mention the huge eight-cylinder diesel engine.</p>
<p><img title="engine room of tug boat ludington" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/ludington-engine-room.jpg?cb=8F2A8060-B792-1955-A6BFFDDE4B824E66" alt="engine room of tug boat ludington" width="800" height="807" /></p>
<p>We wondered how the engineers figured out how to fit so much equipment into such a tightly organized small space. The living quarters were spartan, to say the least, the bunks narrow with no railings to keep crew members from rolling out.</p>
<p>“During our run down from Sturgeon Bay, we had passed three other Looper boats, which arrived after us and were now also docked on the wall.</p>
<p><img title="loopers tied up on the wall" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/loopers-on-the-wall.jpg?cb=8F2A8064-9539-2D32-37281838760274F0" alt="loopers tied up on the wall" width="800" height="810" /></p>
<p>We met Jack & JoAnn on ‘Jackpot,’ Kevin & Lisa on ‘Skafos,’ and Rod & Diana on ‘Nibi-Dancer.’ We gathered on the wall for a couple of hours of docktails. Fred noticed that several of the group looked like walking wounded. One had tripped at the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island and suffered a badly bruised foot. Another had a hand injury. But the most unlikely injury was a bad knee from getting tangled in a fishing line. He was riding past a boy who was fishing, just as the boy was casting his line. The line wound around his neck causing him to fall off his bike.</p>
<p>“The next day, we had calm seas on our run to Manitowoc, an hour’s cruise to make the 25 miles to the new port. We did our usual check-in, and then had lunch. The marina staff recommended Ryan’s on York.</p>
<p>“It wasn’t at all the mid-end restaurant we expected. It was listed as a gastropub and served mostly Asian & Indian-flavored foods. There was quite a variety of naan-wrapped items, which we enjoyed very much. The clientele was interesting: several sporting dreadlocks and others had lots of body art, as well as mainstream ladies having lunch during a shopping break.</p>
<p>“Later in the day, we rode a good two miles to the Piggly Wiggly supermarket and back. We both wore backpacks, and Fred’s pack weighed about 30 pounds on the way back. About a mile from the marina, the battery on Fred’s e-bike began to falter. He suggested we trade bikes as the weight difference most likely caused his battery to run down faster than mine. That worked, but we barely made it back to the marina before the battery was exhausted.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The couple stayed another day in Manitowoc and explored more of what the town had to offer, although none of these towns are particularly focused on tourism. While there is a maritime museum and other historical sights that highlight the shipbuilding history of Lake Michigan, the town is not on the typical cruising itinerary.</p>
<p>And that is the jewel of this trip, in my opinion, and perhaps the gem of cruising in general. When circumstances force an unforeseen change in one’s plans, one often finds the best of all comes from the unexpected.</p>
<p>The closure of the locks in Chicago forced all Loopers to seek alternative destinations, and visit places not normally considered along the Great Loop. But exploring places not on the cruising wishlist can yield unforeseen treasures. And that is the case no matter how one travels.</p>
<p>I was once driving cross country, westward towards a new job on the West Coast. I started having difficulties crossing the Rocky Mountains in Wyoming. The altitude was wrecking havoc with the settings on my diesel engine. It would all soon come to a stop in Cheyenne unless I could find the nearest dealer. It turned out the dealer happened to be a state away, in Greeley, Colorado to be exact. Not having much choice, I retraced my steps to get on US 85, which took me south to Greeley.</p>
<p>The memory today is still fresh. Within 30 seconds of arriving in Greeley, I knew that if the dealer could not fix my car, it didn’t matter. The heck with the new job in Seattle. I would spend the rest of my life here. Everything about the place was a wonderland in my eyes. The clean air, the distant mountains, the friendly people on the street and at the dealer… The clean, vibrant town spoke to me.</p>
<p>And that is the case along the Wisconsin coast of Lake Michigan. Sturgeon Bay, Kawaunee, Manitowac, Sheboygan, and Port Washington, each a unique town. And for travelers who find themselves on the streets of any of these Midwest’s treasures, it is as rewarding as moving from one tourist town to the next, down the magenta line.</p>
<p>Each of these towns is about the American dream, settled by people looking to create the good life for their families, then and to come. And each town has something in its history or other highlight that makes it special in its own way.</p>
<p>Manitowac is Wisconsin’s Maritime Capital, which highlights the rich shipbuilding history of Lake Michigan. It also has local museums and exhibits that celebrate its history and cultural heritage, including a long history as a Native American crossroads before pioneers settled the region.</p>
<p>Sheboygan is known as the Bratwurst Capital, for the obvious reason that its population has a love affair with this food staple that is center to much of its cuisine. It is also called the Malibu of the Midwest, as surfing is surprisingly good off the Lake Michigan beaches. And while Port Washington is not considered the capital of anything, it is home to six golf courses, numerous charter fishing companies, wreck diving, lighthouse museums and cultural centers, state parks, bike and hiking trails, nature reserves, and all those things that make a town a pleasure to live in.</p>
<p>Check out this short video of Sheboygan, although it might be fitting for many of these Midwest towns: </p>
<p><iframe title="YouTube video player" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Td5Y54wocKw" width="760" height="515" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>
<p>So, let’s continue the journal of Last Item as they travel down the Wisconsin coast.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Manitowoc Marina is almost completely enclosed in a breakwater and is a nice location and quiet. There are no parties or loud music. There is a long waterfront park and a six-mile walking/bike path called Mariners’ Trail.</p>
<p>“We lunched again at Ryan’s and then rode a couple of miles to Manitowoc’s Lincoln Park Zoo.</p>
<p><img title="lincoln park zoo" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lincoln-park-zoo.jpg?cb=8F2A8050-CE54-4438-82A541B1C782B1A0" alt="lincoln park zoo" width="719" height="892" /></p>
<p>The zoo is small, only twelve acres, and has paved trails through its woods. This time of year, many of the enclosures are empty and overgrown. Among the few animals we saw are some domestic animals, two beautiful cougars, and a lynx. The zoo has a long-range goal to emphasize conservation and education.</p>
<p>“Every day at noon, the 410-foot cruise ship ‘S.S. Badger’ arrives in Manitowoc.</p>
<p><img title="cruise ship badger" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/cruise-ship.jpg?cb=8F2A804C-C51D-4E5F-5CC7C10712598FDB" alt="cruise ship badger" width="800" height="403" /></p>
<p>It makes the four-hour run from Ludington, Michigan, carrying people and vehicles, once a day between Ludington and Manitowac. It has the distinction of being the last coal-fired steamship in the U.S. It arrives in Manitowoc at noon, stays for two hours and then returns to Ludington.</p>
<p>“On August 18th, we once again had good seas for the one-hour ride from Manitowac to Sheboygan. After checking in, we rode over for lunch at Parker John’s BBQ, along the Deland Park bike path. Almost all the waterfront towns we’ve visited have nicely developed paths or trails along their waterfront areas.</p>
<p>“Walt and Tiggy introduced us to cheese curds. While we were skeptical at first, it turns out we like them. Parker John’s had pretty good ones.</p>
<p>“Having been in the commercial plumbing business, we felt an obligation to visit the John Michael Kohler Arts Center. The center is made up of artist-built environments, a bit different from the usual art museum exhibits. The environments ranged from the unusual to the bizarre. Fred and I particularly liked the museum’s artistic interpretations of bathrooms.</p>
<p><img title="artistic bathroom" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bathroom-at-art-center.jpg?cb=8F2A8068-A5AB-D996-639101CE7CD91414" alt="artistic bathroom" width="800" height="541" /></p>
<p>Commissioned to make the facility’s six washrooms into unique works of art, the selected artists worked as part of the Arts/Industry residency artist program from nearby industry leader Kohler Company.</p>
<p>“Across the street from the museum, a band warmed up on stage and a crowd was gathering. Part of the street was blocked off and filled with a variety of food trucks lining both sides of the street. The aromas wafting from the food trucks were heavenly and we were sorry we had just had our lunch.</p>
<p><img title="food truck row" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/food-truck-row.jpg?cb=8F2A8054-A480-CCC3-B4DF9F74A18771D3" alt="food truck row" width="800" height="438" /></p>
<p>“Our bike tires were getting low, so we rode several more blocks to the nearest gas station. Fred put in the required $2.00 for air but the only air that came out was from the bike tire when Fred attached the hose. Now the tire was flat. The station’s clerk said they didn’t own the air pumps, weren’t responsible, and to call the phone number on the pump. Fred got bounced around through several messages and got nowhere. He gave up and had to walk his bike all the way back to the marina. Going slowly the rest of the way, however, gave us a different perspective and a good look at the many lovely homes from the early 1900s on the tree-lined streets.</p>
<p>“We would have liked to spend at least one more day in Sheboygan, but we have an appointment in Kenosha for oil changes on our main engines a couple of days from now. We have also reserved a rental car as we planned to stay there for a week or more.</p>
<p>“Lake Michigan wasn’t as nice today with two footers, sometimes a little more, and they were pretty much on the nose. But we arrived in Port Washington a little over an hour later and were glad to be out of these bumpy seas.</p>
<p>“Fred made the trip to town with his nearly flat bike tire and got it pumped up. By the time he got back, we were hungry, so off we went for lunch at The Schooner Pub on the waterfront.</p>
<p>“Later, we rode up Franklin Street, the main street of town.</p>
<p><img title="franklin street" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/franklin-street-sheboygan.jpg?cb=8F2A806E-BE25-487A-C2D8B0B3BA373F37" alt="franklin street" width="800" height="548" /></p>
<p>It stretches from the waterfront up a hill past St. Mary’s Church, which is a very visible landmark. Veteran’s Memorial Park is a large park along the waterfront and includes picnic and play areas.</p>
<p><img title="veterans memorial park" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/veterans-park-in-port-washington.jpg?cb=8F2A8072-F00D-7B1D-8F85AC2E9CBB3027" alt="veterans memorial park" width="800" height="517" /></p>
<p>“The next morning, Saturday, August 20th, there was a good downpour, but it cleared as it got closer to noon, so we ventured back out. We meandered through a good local farmers’ market held every Saturday. The vegetables looked so fresh I wanted to load up, but we just didn’t have that much room left in the galley. We did buy some maple syrup from a man whose farm is only a few miles from here.</p>
<p>“We spotted Beanie’s Mexican Restaurant and headed straight for it. We haven’t had Mexican food since we left home. It was quite good. The weather started sprinkling on our way back to the boat and continued the rest of the day.</p>
<p>“The town of Port Washington really appealed to both of us. It is a nice size, has a very pleasant marina, a good variety of shops and restaurants, yet it isn’t jammed with tourists.”</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: This Post</p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
Last Item: Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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Fred and Sidonia head down the Wisconsin coast on their Great Loop Trip. |
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<p><em>This is update #11 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>When we last left Sidonia and Fred on their Nimbus cruiser, they were struggling to enter the U.S. after their travels in Canada. The spectacular waters and scenery of the Ontario waterways certainly created lasting memories, as they had hoped, but their Great Loop now brought them back into the U.S.</p>
<p>On Monday, August 1st, the official hot line was again open, and they were finally able to speak with customs agents. Together, they worked through the issues of not having the vessel decal they should have obtained before leaving the American border. But now that was no longer an issue, and they were back in country.</p>
<p>They spent the first day back in De Tours Harbor, riding their electric bikes around the small town and decompressing from the busy days of travel in Ontario. After a lunch with a good ole’ hamburger at the De Tour Village Inn, they visited a local market where they restocked the fresh vegetables they had been forced to get rid of before crossing the border.</p>
<p>They continue to come across other Loopers on all kinds of big and small boats. Even so, they were surprised to see an unusual cruiser that came in during the night.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“There is a boat docked across from us that is also doing The Loop. It is no more than 20 feet long, if that. We didn’t see it arrive last evening but today it is completely covered with canvas. We can only imagine what it must be like inside, chilly and dark with only four tiny plastic windows in the canvas over the bow. The desire must be strong to do the Great Loop with those accommodations.”</p>
<p><img title="crazy boat on great loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/crazy-great-loop-boat.jpg?cb=8D5AF65D-FA9F-1715-077DA5B1A4CC22E8" alt="crazy boat on great loop" width="800" height="566" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>But now enjoying the familiarity of being back in the U.S., the crew of Last Item were ready to continue their journey and see what new was around the next corner. For Loopers and all other cruisers who have come this far, there is one destination that beckons stronger than most other attractions along the Great Loop. It is steeped in history, was center stage in a classic movie love story years ago and represents the peak of Lake Michigan highlights: Mackinac Island.</p>
<p>Mackinac Island is located between Michigan’s Upper and Lower peninsulas, although it is still in Lake Huron. It is one of the last places on Huron before crossing into Lake Michigan. The island is famous for its trails and woods as part of Mackinac Island State Park. It is the home of Fort Mackinac, originally built by the French, and later run by the British, to control the fur trade in the Great Lakes during the early 18th and 19th centuries.</p>
<p>Motorized vehicles have been banned on the island for well over 100 years, and only bicycle and horse travel are allowed. The 8.2-mile perimeter road around the island is the only state highway in the country that does not allow motor vehicles.</p>
<p>And, of course, there is the magnificent Grand Hotel, which has been welcoming guests since 1887. It is a landmark that still holds onto the lavish lifestyle of a long-gone era. It is on the bucket list of a great many people, whether they are Loopers or not.</p>
<p><img title="The Grand Hotel" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/grand-hotel.jpg?cb=8D5AF665-B41E-20FC-B289F30EA73189DB" alt="The Grand Hotel" width="800" height="514" /></p>
<p>To answer the often-asked question, it does not matter whether it is spelled Mackinac or Mackinaw, the island is pronounced “Mackinaw.” Always.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We left De Tour Harbor on August 2nd, on a beautiful sunny day. We arrived at Mackinac Island in just an hour and a half. We were told on the phone they didn’t take reservations, but we hoped to get a slip in the chance that one became available after another cruiser left, which is precisely what happened. We later learned that one can indeed make reservations, but for only one day at a time.</p>
<p>“Mackinac Island is very special because they do not allow any motorized vehicles (fire and police aside). From the marina we could see the horse-drawn carriages going by and hear gun and canon fire from Fort Michilimackinac (Fort Mackinac) just up the hill from the marina.</p>
<p><img title="Mackinac Island" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/mackinack-island.jpg?cb=8DA38E4A-D304-497A-FCB1CF754F3E2912" alt="Mackinac Island" width="800" height="464" /></p>
<p>“We couldn’t wait to get into town, but it was a bit of a shock after all the quiet little villages we’ve been to in the past two months. The sidewalks were literally packed with people, most of whom came from the multiple passenger ferries that travel back and forth from the mainland. And the streets were crowded with bicycles and horse-drawn carriages. We had to be careful crossing the street, so we didn’t get hit by bike riders, some of whom were so wobbly they clearly hadn’t been on a bicycle in a very long time.</p>
<p>“Despite the crowds, Mackinac Island is unique and charming. There are homes from the early 1800s as well as ones that date from the Victorian era. All are beautifully maintained with lush gardens and flowers galore.</p>
<p>“We walked the length of the main street and back, and then up the hill toward the fort. We wished for our electric bikes. We bypassed the fort though and continued for quite a way to the Grand Hotel, the largest summer resort hotel in the world. It also has the longest porch in the world at 668 feet. We continued and ended up back at the end of the main street, still a distance back to the marina.</p>
<p>“We enjoyed watching the horse-drawn carriages, especially when a very fancy carriage passed by with a newly married couple in their wedding attire. People clapped, waved, and cheered as they rode by.</p>
<p>“Late in the afternoon, we were entertained by a man on a stand-up jet ski. He did back flips, four or five flips in a row and then lateral spins. He must have had incredible stamina as he continued doing flips for at least a half an hour.</p>
<p>“Fudge must be very popular around here as it seems there is at least one fudge shop on every block.</p>
<p>‘The Robert Stuart House Museum has good information about the island and explains the impact of John Jacob Astor. In 1817, Astor made Mackinac Island the headquarters for his lucrative fur business. In 1823, three million dollars worth of furs went through the island. He closed and sold his business in the 1830s when the fur trade moved west.</p>
<p>“The next day was especially nice. We had a lovely, 45-minute buggy ride to get to the Wawashkamo Golf Course. Nothing like having a horse and carriage for your taxi to play golf. There were closer courses to our marina, but Wawashkamo is the oldest links-type course in the country and is rich in history. There was a battle between the Americans and the British in 1812 when this golf course was part of a farm. The Americans went around a low hill to flank the British but were ambushed on the other side of the hill by Indians loyal to the British. They lost the fight.</p>
<p><img title="horse taxi to golf course" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/taxi-to-golf-course.jpg?cb=8D5AF669-0811-20E4-F5C33A3AF861EF7C" alt="horse taxi to golf course" width="800" height="551" /></p>
<p>“The ride to and from the course took us through part of the cool forest of Mackinac State Park. On the route back, we passed some beautiful old houses set within the forest. We got out at the Grand Hotel as we wanted to see inside. My impression is that it is very colorful with huge floral print furniture everywhere. After looking around a bit, we sat on the longest porch in the world and had a very refreshing cosmopolitan while watching people play croquet and corn hole on the lawn below.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>For two full days, Sidonia and Fred enjoyed the island, its sights, and people watching. Mackinac Island is a special place. Loopers really should experience all the island has to offer before heading westward on the next leg of the Loop. And that includes the world-famous fudge.</p>
<p>As is true for so much of cruising, one may not pass this way again.</p>
<p>But it was time to move on, so on August 5th, the crew of Last Item left Mackinac Island and traveled the short distance to Mackinac City on the northern tip of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. Seeing the fuel prices for diesel were lower than the last time they bought fuel, they filled their tanks, paying $5.23 a gallon.</p>
<p>Their next stop was Charlevoix, considered by most as the best natural harbor on Lake Michigan. For vessels on the lake in nasty weather, there is the Charlevoix South Pier Light Station on Lake Michigan at the entrance to Lake Charlevoix via the short Pine River “canal.”</p>
<p><img title="Charlevoix sign" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/charlevoix-sign.jpg?cb=8D5AF64C-0974-A9AD-8F61ABAFF21CF7D1" alt="Charlevoix sign" width="800" height="430" /></p>
<p>Given its protected location, there is also a U.S. Coast Guard station in Charlevoix. For over 100 years, Station Charlevoix continues to stand ready to assist all mariners in this part of Lake Michigan, with an area of responsibility of over 2,500 square miles.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We entered Charlevoix and proceeded to the Charlevoix Municipal Marina in Round Lake. It is well protected, modern looking and well kept. There is a park area adjacent to it as well as a children’s water fountain playground.</p>
<p><img title="Charlevoix Harbor Marina" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/charlevoix-harbor-marina.jpg?cb=8D5AF650-B794-B1F1-ABF85EF50A3308A9" alt="Charlevoix Harbor Marina" width="800" height="445" /></p>
<p>“We walked along the main street checking out the many shops. Charlevoix and nearby towns are in a very popular tourist area and there were lots of people doing exactly what we were doing. The main street was constantly jammed with traffic, in part because the bridge over the canal opens every half hour.</p>
<p>“While waiting for my laundry to wash and dry, I sat outside and watched the children in the fountain pool. The little toddlers were so cute as they sat on the waterspouts, tried to drink from them or were surprised when the jets spurted up in the air.</p>
<p>“We had a very good dinner at Terry’s which had been recommended to us.</p>
<p>“We slept a little late the next morning and it was already hot and muggy when we got up. Toward noon, we had ice cream cones for lunch and then went on the mushroom house tour.</p>
<p>“The mushroom houses were designed and built by Earl Young. He gathered rocks and boulders, some of which came out of Lake Michigan, and used them in all his houses. One of his other trademarks was that he never used blueprints or leveled the ground for a house. Each house was built to mold into the terrain however it lay.</p>
<p><img title="mushroom house" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/earl-young-mushroom-house.jpg?cb=8D5AF655-F787-B955-FD3BDE9B66BB92C9" alt="mushroom house" width="800" height="440" /></p>
<p>“Though clever and unique, his houses are not very practical as they have no closets and only tiny kitchens and low doorways. Most of the houses are in the historic district of the town, so they are required to stay original or as close as possible. Almost all of them are now VRBO houses.</p>
<p>“We spent the latter part of the afternoon in our air-conditioned saloon. We had a good dinner at The Weathervane Restaurant, designed and built by Arthur Young. The fireplace in the restaurant resembles a map of Michigan, and contains a boulder that Young brought to Charlevoix but then hid for 26 years before using it in this fireplace.”</p>
<p><img title="stone fireplace" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/stone-fireplace.jpg?cb=8D5AF659-C29D-6F75-BB2F2C92DCB09E28" alt="stone fireplace" width="800" height="864" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thankfully Sidonia and Fred are not following a schedule, hands down the curse of most cruisers. So, when the weather looked to be unpleasant over the next couple of days, they stayed put in Charlevoix. They enjoyed the simple life aboard, only going out for a few groceries. Their original plan of visiting Leland, Michigan would ultimately not happen.</p>
<p>Once the weather cleared on Tuesday, August 9th, they were off to the western shore of Lake Michigan, heading for Fish Creek, Wisconsin, where they had dear friends they planned to visit on their Loop. After many weeks of mostly nonstop travel, it was going to be a treat to slow down and spend time with friends. They also hoped to get a personal tour of one of the favorite areas in the country.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Finally, a sunny morning with under 10-knot winds and predicted one foot or less seas on both the weather apps we use. As we waited for the 9:00am bridge opening in the Charlevoix canal, we spotted ‘Keokuk,’ another Nimbus cruiser. This is the first Nimbus yacht we’ve seen on our trip thus far. We got close enough to them to exchange a few words but wished we could have had a real visit.</p>
<p>“As we exited the canal and saw the seas beyond, I wasn’t too happy. One foot or less, Hah! This sure doesn’t give one confidence in weather forecasts. We plowed on anyway and after passing South Fox Island, about an hour and a half into the trip, the seas did drop to one foot or less.</p>
<p>“Being in the middle of Lake Michigan, with no land or other boats in sight, was somewhat intimidating, as it’s been 28 years since we last did any offshore cruising. Almost four hours later, however, we were in Green Bay, docked at Alibi Marina in Fish Creek, Wisconsin. Though not a large marina, Fish Creek is very nice, has the typical amenities, and is only a block from town.</p>
<p>“We came here specifically to visit our Tucson next-door neighbors, Walt and Tiggy, who have a summer house in Ephraim. They told us about this beautiful area, and we were most anxious to see them and the Door County they spoke so highly of.</p>
<p><em>(Below: Walt and Tiggy.)</em></p>
<p><img title="walt and tiggy" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/walt-and-tiggy.jpg?cb=8D5AF676-D45E-EAE4-DB3196E840AAD11F" alt="walt and tiggy" width="800" height="549" /></p>
<p>“We got our first taste of this delightful area when they took us to a lovely restaurant in Egg Harbor, which overlooks the bay. It was a beautiful evening, and we had the perfect table setting for viewing the water and the big orange ball of a sun setting through the tall evergreens.</p>
<p>“The next day we saw a wonder of nature that passes through Door County. The Niagara Escarpment is, in simple terms, a long, steep limestone cliff that is the result of unequal erosion. Niagara Falls is near one end of the escarpment near Lake Erie, and its waters flow over it. The escarpment has the oldest forest ecosystem and trees in eastern North America.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The escarpment exists at its most eastern point near Watertown, New York, and continues westward through New York, Ontario, Michigan, Wisconsin, and Illinois. It represented a major consideration when building the Welland Canal between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario and was a significant obstacle when planning the construction of the Erie Canal in New York State. Despite these issues, the limestone cliffs form beautiful cliff walls and caves seen along its length.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Knowing we like to play golf, Walt arranged a game for us at his Peninsula Golf Club. On the way, we stopped at the Door Artisan Cheese Co. Walt and I sampled several kinds of their local cheeses and did not come away empty handed. The Peninsula Golf Course is very nice and much of it lies on the escarpment. The course opened in 1917 as a six-hole course but has grown over the years to a full 18 holes.</p>
<p>“After golf, we came back to the boat to meet a mechanic who was going to check on a couple of issues we were having. Nothing was resolved, but the next day Fred fixed one of the issues himself. The other issue turned out to be a non-issue, but rather a misunderstanding of how the battery system interfaced with the inverter.</p>
<p>“We began our evening at the childhood summer home of Tiggy’s family. The house was built in 1909 by her grandfather and is where her sister and brother-in-law spend many summers. When I stepped through the doorway, it was like stepping into my own childhood house, which was built it 1894. It had that same, nice ‘old house’ smell. We all sat on the large front deck with the view of Green Bay and Chambers Island in the distance.</p>
<p>From there we went to Walt and Tiggy’s house for dinner. Their charming house, though much newer, is in the historic district as is the old family house up the hill. We can certainly understand why they are always so anxious to get here to spend their summers.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Sidonia and Fred were now in full chill mode, and eager to play tourist. For those readers who have asked to follow their schedule, it was now Thursday, August 11th.</p>
<p>The couple and their friends started the day with an authentic Swedish breakfast at a famous local restaurant in Sister Bay. Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant & Butik began in 1949 as a simple restaurant called Al’s Home Cooking. In the 1970s, they did a major renovation of the restaurant to create a more Scandinavian design and feel. Their friend donated a goat for the partial sod roof as a joke but given the overwhelming response to people seeing the sight of a goat munching on a sod-roof, it became a trademark of the restaurant.</p>
<p><img title="swedish restaurant with goats on roof" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/johnsons-swqedish-restaurant.jpg?cb=8D5AF672-F8C0-EF46-72945B2E0E42E116" alt="swedish restaurant with goats on roof" width="800" height="774" /></p>
<p>(It was so successful as a marketing gimmick, the Johnsons covered the entire roof in sod and brought in more goats. In 1996, the Johnsons trademarked “Goats on the Roof,” so no other restaurant could imitate such a dining spectacle.)</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“After breakfast we had a grand tour of the northern half of Door Peninsula. We passed through all the villages on the Green Bay side of the peninsula to White Fish Bay on the Lake Michigan side. Door County is known to have more shoreline and more lighthouses than any other county in the country.</p>
<p><img title="white fish bay beach" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/white-fish-bay-beach.jpg?cb=8D5AF67A-9768-97D4-730EC411EC4F0D12" alt="white fish bay beach" width="800" height="603" /></p>
<p>“Tiggy and I bought some pieces at a pottery shop in Ellison Bay, as well as some goodies at the Rowley’s Bay Swedish Bakery. We had beers at the Door County Brewery in Baileys Harbor and then stopped at Cave Point to watch kids jump into the water off the escarpment cliffs.</p>
<p><img title="kids jumping into water" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/kids-jumping.jpg?cb=8D5AF67E-DA9B-A51D-EB3753456DC4D6F3" alt="kids jumping into water" width="800" height="733" /></p>
<p>“Heading back, we crossed the interior of the peninsula, where we saw corn fields and other crops. To finish the day, we enjoyed a good rib dinner at a funky restaurant on a little lake in the interior of the peninsula.</p>
<p>“How lucky we are to have wonderful and knowledgable friends/guides to show us their beautiful area.”</p>
<p><img title="wisconsin map" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/greetings-from-wisconsin.jpg?cb=8D5AF682-0B23-2159-24B012CE36E0284D" alt="wisconsin map" width="610" height="819" /></p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: This Post</p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
Last Item: Into Lake Michigan |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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Continue following Nimbus Boat owners Fred and Sidonia along their Great Loop Cruise. In this post, they are in Michigan. |
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<p><em>This is update #10 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>As we pick up from our last segment of the adventures of Last Item, Sidonia and Fred completed the Trent-Severn Waterway and entered Georgian Bay. They initially traveled south from Port Severn to Midland, Ontario. After a bit of R&R, they headed north up to Bayfield, which was a disappointment, so they continued northwest to an anchorage at the entrance to Alexander Passage.</p>
<p>The area has thousands of tiny islands, many not much more than slabs of stone sticking out of the water. Tricky navigation is the name of the game in these waters, but that is offset by its gorgeous scenery.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Sunday, July 24, was not a red-letter day for us. We took a different route than yesterday to exit the channel, which had been more straightforward. Fred was momentarily distracted, talking to me, and barely strayed out of the channel. We ended up leaving a little gel coat on a rock. Fortunately, we were at idle speed and backed off before the props could hit but not before a few expletives were issued.</p>
<p>“The open water of Georgian Bay had healthy three-foot waves rolling in and we bounced along at 22 knots for about 45 minutes until we’d had enough. Turning to go with the seas was much more comfortable but we got lots of spray over the top of the boat.</p>
<p>“To further avoid the open water, Fred wove (and I mean wove) our way through some very tight spots. In one, in order to keep between the red and green buoys which, at most, were only 20 feet apart, we made a hard left at idle speed but then Fred had to give more throttle on the starboard engine and put the port engine in reverse to swing the stern around, as we were concerned about hitting the rocks as we swung hard to port. Then he had to make the same maneuver in the opposite direction using the port engine to straighten us out and keep away from more rocks.</p>
<p>“This passage was certainly not charted for boats our size or larger but there is a magenta line on our navigation system, so it is a proven route. It is amazing that this area has been charted and marked with buoys as much as it has. We finally made it over to French River where I wanted to see the rapids.</p>
<p><img title="French River Rapids" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/french-river-rapids.jpg?cb=4E6F55C0-A2A5-1E72-8FA92A04E79EA1F2" alt="French River Rapids" width="800" height="465" /></p>
<p>“We anchored at the end of the navigable stretch of French River and dropped the dinghy. It was very windy, and we were both wet from spray as we headed farther into the inlet. We got to the rapids, but I was a little disappointed as it was less than what I had expected.</p>
<p>“On the way back down from the rapids, we hit a rock and sheered the pin on the dinghy motor propeller. Now we were in a pickle. No motor, only one paddle and going against the wind and waves to try and get back to ‘Last Item.’</p>
<p>“It was our luck, however, that four kayakers appeared. We told them about our problem, and they offered to tow us back to our boat. One towed us, Fred paddled, and I held onto another kayak to keep its bow into our stern, so he was pushing. It took about 25 minutes of hard work. We were so grateful to them, as our alternatives were slim to none.</p>
<p><img title="kayakers helping us" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/kayak-heroes.jpg?cb=4E6F55C4-EAF5-A6C8-29F61A28952BE78B" alt="kayakers helping us" width="800" height="683" /></p>
<p>“Because the wind was blowing right up the French River inlet, we didn’t want to stay where we were for the night. We backtracked and anchored behind Obstacle Island in company with two other boats in the protective anchorage on the north side of the island.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The labyrinth of islands and narrow channels in the French River delta are both a navigational adventure and a breathtaking, almost magical experience. Obstacle Island is one of many islands at the mouth of the French River in Georgian Bay, within the French River Provincial Park. The well-marked anchorage is a popular destination for cruisers.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Since we had only about four miles of open water to cross, we left our snug anchorage and headed over to the Bustard Islands. We drove the <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> at 21 knots and were there in short order.</p>
<p>“We found a lovely anchorage in Bustard Islands Harbor on Burnt Island. Two local boats were anchored there with their sterns tied to the shore. They must have been there for several days as they had paddle boards and other water toys floating around their boats.</p>
<p><img title="two boats at anchor" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/buestard-islands.jpg?cb=4E6F55C8-FBF0-54A1-11A01D3E617E4112" alt="two boats at anchor" width="800" height="456" /></p>
<p>“We also had other good company in the form of a loon couple with two juveniles. We spent a lot of time watching the adults diving for food and feeding the two youngsters. They passed the food by barely touching beaks unlike other birds that poke deep into the parent’s mouth. They warbled, called, and sometimes made a scream-like call. Many times, they were so close to us we could also hear ‘whispering’ sounds. I took many photos of them, but lighting wasn’t good and it was too windy for anything to stand still, so none of my photos were in focus.</p>
<p>“Fred replaced the sheer pin on the dinghy motor so when the wind dies down, we can do some exploring. Maybe tomorrow.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The Bustard Islands are made up of several large islands, in addition to Burnt Island, and many smaller islands and rocky ledges. The islands are uninhabited except for the occasional cottage. The islands are well known for their exceptional scenery.</p>
<p><img title="Bustard Islands" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bustard-islands.jpg?cb=4E6F55CC-90DB-8223-FB9D65BF8E96044D" alt="Bustard Islands" width="800" height="478" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>“There was just a slight breeze this Tuesday morning, so Fred got into the dinghy and cleaned the canal slime off the waterline of the boat. After he recuperated from that, we took a dinghy ride. Wary of hitting another rock, we didn’t venture too far as we have no replacement sheer pins left.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Loopers continue westward along the top of Georgian Bay, and it is straight shot to Killarney and Killarney Provincial Park, and the beginning of the North Channel.</p>
<p>However, if the weather threatens, one can choose a less-direct route to Killarney by taking advantage of the 10-mile-long Collins Inlet, a fjord-like channel between mainland Ontario and Philip Edward Island. It is very well protected and not very wide (only 150 feet in places). The two ends of the channel connect with Mill Lake, about a third of the way in from the eastern entrance of the channel, where Last Item entered Collins Inlet from Beaverstone Bay.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><img title="Collins Channel" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/collins-channel.jpg?cb=4E6F55BC-CA9D-A5A5-4B67A02997E0A030" alt="Collins Channel" width="800" height="504" /></p>
<p>From Collins Inlet, it is only another five miles to Killarney on the Ontario mainland. Beyond Killarney is the 160-mile long North Channel, which many consider as having some of the finest cruising grounds in the world.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We left our lovely anchorage in Bustard Islands Harbor to head toward Killarney. The seas were bumpy but much better than the past several days. Even so, we were in no hurry so Fred chose to go via Collins Inlet.</p>
<p>“What a change in scenery from the outer islands! The terrain has elevation and rocky bluffs and there weren’t rocky islets everywhere to maneuver around. Fred picked out a nice anchorage on the north side of Green Island, in the middle of the lake. The wind was blowing down the channel on each side of the island and we could see the whitecaps on the little waves, but we were sitting in totally calm water. It was delightful.</p>
<p>“There was one little house on a nearby island. For a good part of the afternoon and evening, a man stood on his dock fishing. Fred could see that he was catching lots of fish but then he would gently put them back in the water.</p>
<p>“From our anchorage, Collins Inlet makes a 90-degree turn toward Killarney and becomes much narrower. I was glad Fred had chosen this route as it was very pretty. In many spots, water lilies lined the shallows along with bright, green reeds. We saw several large beaver dams but no beavers. The rock bluffs and lower shorelines were the beautiful dusty pink color we have been seeing throughout Georgian Bay.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The next destination for Loopers on their travels is the small village of Killarney. It was established in 1820 as a fur trading post and is one of the oldest settlements in Canada. Its location along a major water transportation route made it ideal for developing logging, fishing, and mining industries.</p>
<p><em>(Below: An old store in Killarney.)</em></p>
<p><img title="old store in Killarney" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/killarney-store.jpg?cb=4E6F55D8-0901-90E1-141C433939AD38C2" alt="old store in Killarney" width="800" height="762" /></p>
<p>Today it is a major tourist destination and during the summer the Killarney population of 400 residents grows significantly, as people come to enjoy the fishing, hiking, camping, kayaking, and other activities on the water and in the provincial park lands.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We had planned to moor at Sportsman’s Inn Resort & Marina in Killarney, but a group of boaters was having a rendezvous and the attendees filled all the available dock space.</p>
<p><img title="Sportman's Inn" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/sportsmans-inn.jpg?cb=4E6F55D0-D837-14FC-B1D467E7D0E3BC09" alt="Sportman's Inn" width="800" height="485" /></p>
<p>We can’t imagine where all those boaters came from, as Killarney isn’t close to anything. We were lucky to get the last space available at Roque’s Marina. It isn’t as classy as Sportsman’s but it has laundry and showers and is within walking distance to amenities.</p>
<p><img title="Roque's Inn" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/roques-marina.jpg?cb=4E6F55D4-F0EC-BE6B-84D3F65C962AAB24" alt="Roque's Inn" width="800" height="556" /></p>
<p>“Roger and Marilyn (‘Uncle Wiggley’) were docked here as well. We have been communicating with them via NEBO, which is an app with which you can log your trips, see where other boaters are, send messages to other boaters, and more.</p>
<p>“We made a dinner reservation at Sportsman’s for the four of us. We were all a bit surprised that it was quite an upscale place, unlike most of the waterfront restaurants in the little villages we’ve seen in Canada.</p>
<p>“It rained overnight and into the next morning, with a few claps of thunder. The sun came out at the perfect time, and we scootered down to Herbert’s for his ‘World Famous Fish & Chips.’ Herbert’s doesn’t have the ambience of Henry’s back on Fry Pan Island, but we thought the fish and chips were as good or even a little better.</p>
<p>“After lunch we went to the grocery store. It is in a cute old building and has just enough of the basics to get us by for a few days. There is also a bakery in town where we got some fresh bread, cookies, and a couple of other goodies. Their raisin tarts were my favorites of the tarts we’ve tasted along the way.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Killarney is considered the entry point into the North Channel. But to continue west, one must also pass the narrow waters at Little Current on Manitoulin Island. It is where Manitoulin Island connects to the mainland, via a swing bridge.</p>
<p>Manitoulin Island sits near the northwest corner of Lake Huron and has the distinction of being the largest freshwater island in the world with a population of over 13,000.</p>
<p>Anyone coming to the island by car must use the swing bridge that connects Manitoulin Island to the mainland via Goat Island, then Mosquito Island and a chain of other islands to reach the Ontario mainland. The swing bridge, originally constructed in 1913 for railroad service, is 368 feet long, and connects Highway 6. It is single lane only, so uses traffic signals, the only such devices on Manitoulin Island.</p>
<p><img title="Manitoulin Swing Bridge" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/manitoulin-swing-bridge.jpg?cb=52740AB6-EC55-316A-38FA903CB1109B5D" alt="Manitoulin Swing Bridge" width="800" height="512" /></p>
<p>Interestingly, if one wanted to travel from Killarney to Little Current and Manitoulin Island by car, it would take several hours to drive the 138 miles. Conversely, it is but 18 nautical miles by boat.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“On Friday, July 28, we left Killarney around 8:00am to get as far as Vidal Bay on Manitoulin Island. The seas were a little bumpy on the way to Little Current. Several miles after we passed Little Current, the seas were on our bow and getting rougher. We slowed from 24 knots to about 15 knots and maintained that speed past Clapperton Island. The farther we went, however, the rougher it got and soon we were down to 7 knots with waves now four feet high and closely spaced. (We’ve noticed that the waves on the Great Lakes come much closer together than we are used to, which makes for a more unsettling ride.)</p>
<p>“We were now halfway between Little Current and Gore Bay, also on Manitoulin Island, although it is closer than Vidal Bay. It was decision time: do we turn around and go all the way back to Little Current or do we tough it out? We decided to head for Gore Bay.</p>
<p>“When we saw a big wave coming, Fred would slow down almost to idle speed. We plunged into the troughs and several times our bow sprit dove into an oncoming wave. Fred tried to angle our course to port towards Gore Bay, but he couldn’t maintain that angle as the waves came on our beam and rolled us terribly.</p>
<p>“At one point, Fred didn’t get the bow into an oncoming wave fast enough and it threw him off the captain’s chair onto the cabin sole, although he never let go of the wheel. He worked like crazy changing our running angle while speeding up to 7 or 8 knots when he could, then quickly bringing the bow around and slowing down to head into the next big waves. He is so thankful our boat has power steering.</p>
<p>“I wouldn’t go so far as to say I was scared but I was definitely anxious. Ozzie left his place beside me when it got really bad and disappeared somewhere but he never got sick and never made a peep. After an hour and a half, we made the turn into Gore Bay. What a relief!</p>
<p>“Shortly after docking, we went to the Split Rail Brewery for lunch. We then perused the Community Center where there were several locals making and selling their crafts.</p>
<p>“At 4:30, several other Looper couples joined us in the gazebo at the park. There are so many nice boaters everywhere we go. Some we know we will never see again, and some we will probably see again as we leapfrog with them for the next thousand or more miles.”</p>
<p><img title="docktails with other great loopers" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/docktails-in-gore-bay.jpg?cb=4E6F55E4-9635-E0EC-2D71A512D9E79894" alt="docktails with other great loopers" width="800" height="746" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Gore Bay is a nice little village with about 900 residents. It is the definitive small town, founded in 1890, Gore Bay is the kind of town many would prefer to live, as it is not a suburb of a large urban city, but rather a complete small town with everything one needs to enjoy life. There is a hardware store, a good grocery, churches, library, schools, senior center, pharmacy, small chocolate factory, brewery, restaurants, banks, and at least two fish and chips restaurants.</p>
<p>The town also had something Sidonia and Fred have not seen before, an inflatable water park. During the two days of their visit, the couple enjoyed hearing the squeals of laughing kids jumping and sliding around and having a good time.</p>
<p>They had a surprise when they dined at Purvis Fish & Chips in the Pavilion near the marina. They’ve enjoyed good fish and chips all through Canada, but the ones served at Purvis Fish & Chips were the best, in their opinion, even better than Herbert’s.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We woke up to a sunny Sunday, the last day in July. What a difference a couple of days make! The water is nearly flat calm today. We made the 64 miles from Gore Bay to De Tour Harbor, at the eastern tip of Chippewa County on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, in a little over two and a half hours. I knitted the whole way, without dropping a stitch.</p>
<p>“Once we got to De Tour Harbor, we immediately tried to check into customs, which one has to do online. After a few failed attempts, we found we needed a user decal which is the one thing, so far, that I failed to think of before we started the trip. It is a sticker that is attached to the boat as proof that the user fee for entry into the U.S. has been paid for the calendar year. We tried over and over to get the decal online with no luck.</p>
<p>“We called customs several times but the agents, though they tried to be helpful, didn’t have the expertise needed to get us a user decal and the national help line isn’t open on the weekends.</p>
<p>“After two hours of trying everything we could think of, and my frustration level in the danger zone, we gave up and decided to wait until tomorrow when the help line would again be available. And without being cleared by U.S. Customs, we were not allowed to get off the boat. The weather was beautiful, not a cloud in the sky, and only light winds, yet we couldn’t get off and enjoy any of it.</p>
<p>“All was quiet that afternoon until we heard the loud, deep blast of a ship’s horn. Passing through the channel by De Tour Harbor was the biggest freighter we’ve ever seen.</p>
<p>“It was the American bulk carrier James R. Barker, at 1,004 feet long, just 85 feet shorter than our largest aircraft carrier. I couldn’t get a photo of it so I downloaded an image from the internet.”</p>
<p><img title="James R Barker ship" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/james-r-barker-ship.jpg?cb=4E902F0A-979B-E5B2-73443D44A89AC676" alt="James R Barker ship" width="800" height="439" /></p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: This Post</p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
Last Item: North Channel |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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Enjoy these updates from our Nimbus Boats owners Fred and Sidonia on their North Channel segment of the Great Loop. |
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<p><em>This is update #9 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>We left Sidonia and Fred safely docked at Starport Marina after transiting the Big Chute, nearing the end of the Trent-Severn Waterway.</p>
<p>The marina is on the east side of the lake, just north of the last lock at Port Severn, and it made sense to take a break. There is not much in the way of summer activity in Port Severn besides watching boats lock through the last lock in the Trent-Severn (or first if one is headed eastward toward Trenton).</p>
<p>It is only eight miles from the Big Chute to Port Severn and Lock #45, the last lock of the Trent-Severn Waterway.</p>
<p>Another reason to stop at Starport Marina is its proximity to Rawley Resort, Spa, & Marina. This highly regarded resort goes back 100 years, when it first opened as an early fishing lodge. Today the facilities comprise a full-service luxury resort.</p>
<p><img title="rawleys resort" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/rawleys-resort.jpg?cb=ED971E4A-C39C-D931-6EA9053E9A5E1CE9" alt="rawleys resort" width="800" height="491" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We didn’t find much reason to rush on to Port Severn, as there is only a small general store and a liquor store for provisioning, and we needed more than either could provide. We thought about moving on to Midland, but after a delicious and leisurely lunch at the Rawley Resort near the marina, that seemed out of the question.</p>
<p>“Roger and Marilyn (‘Uncle Wiggley’) stopped for fuel at the marina and we visited with them for a bit. They were continuing to Midland today.</p>
<p>“On Sunday, July 17th, we took on fuel and moved the short distance to the last lock on the Trent-Severn Waterway, Port Severn Lock #45. This lock chamber is smaller than all the other locks at only 84 feet long. Construction of the lock began in 1913 just before WWI. To complete the lock quickly, they made it shorter, with the intent to increase the size at a later date. They never did.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Completing the Trent-Severn Waterway is a major accomplishment for those doing the Great Loop. Once the Loopers enter Georgian Bay after Port Severn, most will head into Lake Huron, then Lake Michigan, where they travel south to enter the Chicago River in downtown Chicago.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We were sorry that the end had come to the Trent-Severn. It has been a very enjoyable trip through many villages, islands, canals, and lakes.</p>
<p>“Now entering Georgian Bay, the landscape already looks different. The little islands are not covered in forests of tall trees. Many barely rate the term ‘island’ as whatever trees they have are small, more like tall shrubs.</p>
<p>“The water does get deeper, however. We found 33 feet on the depth sounder in the short hop from Port Severn to Midland.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Located at the southern end of Georgian Bay's 30,000 Islands, Midland is the major center for the area’s economy. Midland has a good-sized hospital and an airport to support its 18,000 full-time residents.</p>
<p>During the summer season, the area population grows to over 100,000 visitors who come to spend time in the thousands of area cottages, resort hotels, and national and provincial parks.</p>
<p>Every June, there is an annual butter tart festival, which in pre-Covid times sold over 100,000 butter tarts, the delicious treats Canadians are famous for.</p>
<p>Midland’s Huronia Museum opened in 1947 and was part of Canada’s Centennial Project, which opened in 1967. The Historic Art of Huronia Gallery in the museum presently displays works by many famous artists, such as Homer Watson, Manly MacDonald, Franklin Arbuckle, and William Wood. There are exhibits of contemporary art and archaeological collections of the Ouendat and Ojibway</p>
<p>First Nations. Other exhibits highlight Georgian Bay lighthouses, shipwrecks, maritime and military history.</p>
<p>Adjacent to the museum is the Huron Village, which illustrates what Huron life was like in the century before the arrival of Europeans, around 1500-1600. The village includes a shaman's lodge, wigwam, masks, fish racks, longhouse, corn field, bone pit, fur drying rack, and a burial rack.</p>
<p>A sight one cannot miss when entering Midland by boat is a giant mural painted on the grain elevators. The mural depicts a meeting between a local Huron-Ouendat native and missionary Jean de Brebeuf. It was done by Fred Lenz and his son, Stephen. Completed in 2001, it was the largest mural in Canada at the time.</p>
<p><img title="mural in midland ontario" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/mural-in-midland-ontario.jpg?cb=ED971E57-F838-8822-FD7789BA42339FE7" alt="mural in midland ontario" width="800" height="444" /></p>
<p>The marina of choice in Midland is the Bay Port Yachting Centre on the northwest side of the bay.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Entering Midland, the first sight you see is the huge mural on the grain elevators at the waterfront. It is quite impressive. We docked at Bay Port marina, a good mile from town. But there is a nice, paved pathway from the marina to town which follows the waterfront.</p>
<p>“It has been very hot the past several days, up to at least 90 degrees yesterday. We stay aboard during the afternoons with the air conditioning keeping us cool. At night the temperatures drop, enough that one of us at some point reaches down and pulls up the comforter.</p>
<p>“It rained most of the next morning, Monday, and we thought we would have to cancel our planned golf game. But by noon, the sun broke through, and the afternoon turned out to be beautiful.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Midland is sufficiently large enough to support several taxi companies. Sidonia and Fred took a Busy Bee taxi over to the Midland Golf and Country Club. They enjoyed playing on a nice golf course with lots of trees and sand traps. It was good to get off Last Item and stretch one’s legs and muscles while walking the course and swinging golf club.</p>
<p>Temperatures remained in the 90s, so after golf the couple returned to the boat to cool down for the remainder of the afternoon.</p>
<p>The following morning, they headed over to the Huronia Museum and the Huron Village.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“The museum has lots of Indian artifacts, some of which are hundreds of years old. There are also interesting things from the early pioneer days. They also have a maritime exhibit with ship models, and dozens of photographs of ships from the 1800s.</p>
<p><img title="ship in midland" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/ship-in-midland-harbour.jpg?cb=ED971E53-93A7-4977-25094C1EA20D120C" alt="ship in midland" width="800" height="433" /></p>
<p>“After more grocery shopping and another good lunch at the Boathouse Grill, we struggled with heavy backpacks back to the boat. Thank goodness for our scooters.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>On Wednesday, July 20th, the couple left Midland and continued on their Nimbus Coupe northwest across Georgian Bay. They were soon weaving their way through numerous islands of the northern bay.</p>
<p>They were headed to a likely anchorage about 25 miles north of Midland and hoped to drop the hook in a well-protected spot perfect for enjoying the beauty and splendor of Georgian Bay.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We headed to a place Fred determined would be a great spot, but we had a problem once we got there. At the narrow entrance of where we expected to anchor was a sign on a tree that announced we had arrived at Camp Hurontario, but the sign told us to please not enter beyond this point. We could see kids canoeing and sailing just ahead. It was a perfect place for a summer camp, but we were disappointed we were not allowed into this picturesque spot.</p>
<p>“We pushed on a little farther and found another place to anchor. It was nice but more exposed. As it was windy, and there was a forecast of a possible squall and a tornado watch. The skies slowly darkened throughout the afternoon and right at 5:00, the squall hit. Thunder, lightning, wind, and rain lasted for an hour and then eased up.</p>
<p>“The islands around us are mostly uninhabited but we could see a couple of houses on two different islands a little distant. There was also someone camping on the island near us and Fred was sure the sounds we heard were .22-caliber rifle shots. Occasionally, a small boat and outboard would pass through the nearby channel. Overall, it was pretty secluded.</p>
<p>“Despite the weather, it felt good to be on the hook again.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Anchored in the islands near Camp Hurontario, the couple experienced a blow the next morning that sent whitecaps through their anchorage, and the morning winds buffeted the Nimbus Coupe, swinging her around the anchor rode. But the anchor was secure, so they decided to stay put due to the winds.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“It would normally have been a popcorn and movie day, except we couldn’t get TV reception, which we have not been able to get since we entered Canada.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>In the afternoon, the sun came out, but the winds continued to howl. They could see a house on shore flying the Canadian flag, and it was as straight as a board all day as if it was made of wood.</p>
<p>The following morning, Friday, July 22, the winds finally died, and the anchorage once again became a peaceful setting.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“There is nothing quite like floating among several islands and hearing a loon warbling in the evening. It was the same sound I woke up to this morning and reminded me of the movie ‘On Golden Pond.’ The island nearest to us is covered with trees right down to the water’s rocky edge, their tops all angled to the south. In some spots, the rock is angled in colored layers eight to ten feet high. Some of the rock is a lovely pinkish-beige color.</p>
<p>“Last night, just after I went to bed, there was the loud sound of several feet of anchor chain going out. It woke Fred up and we pondered what could have caused it as there was very little wind now.</p>
<p>“It finally dawned on us that Ozzie must have walked across the console and hit the switch. Earlier in our trip, he had turned on the defogger blowers. There is really no way to keep the switches protected when he is wandering around the boat.”</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: Ozzie hides whenever he thinks the engines are about to come on.)</em></p>
<p><img title="ozzie the cat hiding" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/ozzie-hiding.jpg?cb=ED971E5B-C475-B301-5B18E90040901DA1" alt="ozzie the cat hiding" width="800" height="513" /> </p>
<p>One thing Sidonia and Fred were not going to miss is Henry’s Fish Restaurant, a quite-famous fish and chips eatery on the Sans Souci Peninsula, known as Frying Pan Island. The restaurant is only reachable by boat and plane. It is well known to Loopers and in previous years tourists have flown in from Toronto for a tasty fish dinner.</p>
<p><img title="henrys on frying pan island" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/henrys-with-last-item.jpg?cb=ED6F08B5-AC19-8752-A38470792CA2CBA2" alt="henrys on frying pan island" width="800" height="498" /></p>
<p>Islander Adventure Tours offers large RIB tours to Henry’s, a part of a tour package through the scenic islands and waters between Frying Pan Island and the company’s home base on Parry Island.</p>
<p>Lake Country Airways also offers scenic flights from Orillia that flies over the islands of Georgian Bay, landing at Frying Pan Island for lunch at Henry’s. After a relaxing meal, the return trip back to Orillia flies over the Trent Severn Waterway, the Swift Rapid lift lock, and along Sparrow Lake before landing back in Orillia.</p>
<p>Clearly it should not be missed by Loopers passing through Georgian Bay.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“All the Loopers and Looper books talk about Henry’s on Frying Pan Island for good fish and chips. We just had to see what all the hoopla was about.</p>
<p><img title="henrys on frying pan island" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/henrys-on-fry-pan-island.jpg?cb=ED6F08AC-CF32-2870-8034D70B1FC9CC66" alt="henrys on frying pan island" width="800" height="487" /></p>
<p>“We arrived at 11:30 and were told we’d have to wait until they opened at noon. Then a very large inflatable tourist boat arrived carrying about thirty people. They all went up and got tables right away. We thought we wouldn’t be eating for a long time but, sure enough, at noon we were seated.</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: Henry's warns boaters of shallow rocks by displaying bent propellers.)</em></p>
<p><img title="bent propellers at henrys" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/henrys-collection-of-warnings.jpg?cb=ED6F08B0-CF33-AE3F-9664ACB20F0B5A8D" alt="bent propellers at henrys" width="800" height="448" /></p>
<p>“We agree with the critics that the fish and chips are very good.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Back under way, they decided to bypass Parry Sound as they had plenty of provisions, and they prefer to anchor out whenever they can. So, Fred looked at the charts and came up with a good choice.</p>
<p>They decided to travel through Shebeshekong Channel to the east and anchor off King Island.</p>
<p><img title="anchores off king island" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/anchored-off-king-island.jpg?cb=ED6F08BA-0086-A568-F8ED529E7E7A0E5B" alt="anchores off king island" width="800" height="500" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We dumped the dinghy for the first time since the incident in the Thousand Islands. In Port Severn, we had picked up the replacement outboard cowling that Fred ordered. Now we realized that the seat was also missing, which we hadn’t noticed before.</p>
<p>“We took our happy hour beverages over to King Island.</p>
<p><img title="dinghy on king island" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/enjoying-king-island.jpg?cb=ED6F08D0-0FDB-DB74-8679525E84F41ECF" alt="dinghy on king island" width="800" height="444" /></p>
<p>The rocks there are such that it is easy to walk a fair distance on them. Where there isn’t rock, there are lots of interesting little plants and some very deep, soft moss. After we climbed around for awhile, we settled on a large rock and sipped our drinks while enjoying the view. I thought I’d like to come back here in the morning, so we tied the dinghy to the boat when we returned for the night.</p>
<p><img title="view from king island" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/view-from-king-island.jpg?cb=ED6F08CB-F8B3-9417-9B9C2F3EBACB2DFD" alt="view from king island" width="800" height="548" /></p>
<p>“The next morning, Saturday, July 23rd, I was still in bed when Fred went out on the back deck. I watched him look down, then look out, scanning the distance, and then come back inside to grab the binoculars.</p>
<p>“I knew right away that our dinghy was gone. It had been windy during the night, yet the bow line was still attached to a cleat on Last Item. That meant the knot had come undone from the eye ring at the bow of the dinghy.</p>
<p>“Fred admittedly is not good at tying knots. Before this trip, he bought a pair of 10/40 stabilized binoculars, and they really earned their keep this morning. He spotted the dinghy on a distant island, but it was too far away to see it with the naked eye.</p>
<p>“We lifted anchor and moved Last Item as close as we dared to where the dinghy was, and dropped the anchor. Fred was going to have to take a swim.</p>
<p>“Luckily, the water was not very cold, and Fred did not scream like a little girl when he went into the water.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Fred was able to push the dinghy off the rocks and once aboard the dinghy was able to start the outboard without issue. Everything was fine until he noticed that one of the oars was missing. That was odd because the two oars are permanently attached to the dinghy.</p>
<p>So, when Fred returned to Last Item, he suggested Sidonia, an accomplished swimmer, should swim over to the rocks and look for the oar. It was no doubt near where the dinghy had lodged itself on the rocks.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“It was not too far from shore, but I haven’t been swimming for a long time and during that time I’ve somehow gotten a little older.</p>
<p>“I put on one of those horrible, orange life jackets which may be lifesaving but are impossible to swim with. I got to shore all right, but had trouble maneuvering around the round, underwater rocks so I finally took off the bulky life jacket. A man on shore suddenly appeared above me and started talking to me.</p>
<p>“I was having enough problems and his poor timing to have a friendly conversation didn’t help. He said he had a house on the other side of the island but lived in Florida.</p>
<p>“I kept floundering around trying to find the paddle and finally gave up. I swam back to the boat but then realized I couldn’t get aboard.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The boarding ladder on the <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> is located off center on the starboard side of the swim platform, and it had been bent in one of the Erie Canal locks when turbulence pushed the boat’s stern into the lock wall. As a result, it no longer pulled out to extend into the water to allow her to climb up and onto the swim platform.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“I tried climbing into the dinghy using the skeg on the motor for a step, but that didn’t work either. Fred had to take the dinghy to shallow water where I could stand up and kind of fall in.</p>
<p>“Later on, Fred realized that even if we had found the oar, we would have found it broken. The reason it came off the dinghy was that the plastic coupling that attached it to the dinghy must have hit the rocks and broken. We are starting to feel jinxed with our dinghy.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>(There is a way to board a dinghy from the water that is worth learning. It may even save your life. Try it and you will feel confident about getting quickly and safely into an inflatable dinghy. And it takes very little upper body strength: <a href="https://youtu.be/GQuIJ3D5Kcc">https://youtu.be/GQuIJ3D5Kcc</a> )</p>
<p>The weather forecast called again for strong winds, so Fred decided moving over to Bayfield would offer better protection, even though they preferred more remote anchorages among less inhabited rocky islands.</p>
<p>On the way to Bayfield, they passed the lighthouse at Pointe au Baril and entered a tricky, curvy route towards Bayfield that wound between rocks and sharp turns and it was imperative to follow the red and green buoys. There was not a lot of room for error.</p>
<p><img title="lighthouse at pointe au baril" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lighthouse.jpg?cb=ED6F08D4-B213-2FBD-E2F319F4876207F3" alt="lighthouse at pointe au baril" width="800" height="490" /></p>
<p>As it turned out, Bayfield was not really a viable stop for their boat as the slips were for smaller boats and didn’t look very secure. Plus, there was not much else there.</p>
<p>So, Fred found another anchorage northwest of Bayfield, at the edge of Alexander Channel. It was much better, and they set the anchor just fine.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“After being in the water this morning, I thought I’d like to take a real swim. There was a problem, however. After floating around for awhile, I was ready to get back aboard. But we didn’t want to lower the dinghy and go to shore as we did earlier.</p>
<p>“So, Fred tied two lines to the rail with the fixed loop ends hanging in the water. One loop was lower than the other. When I got my foot to the second, higher loop, Fred raised the lower loop higher, and so on, a couple of more times until I could get a foot on the swimstep, and he could pull me up.</p>
<p>“The water felt wonderful, but I don’t know if it was worth what we had to go through just because I wanted to go swimming in the Great Lakes.”</p>
<p><img title="sidonia swimming" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/swimming-sidonia.jpg?cb=EECA629A-DE05-FF93-81523BC21CAF9CD8" alt="sidonia swimming" width="800" height="444" /></p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: This Post.</p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
Last Item: Georgian Bay |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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<p><em>This is update #8 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Sidonia and Fred had just arrived in Peterborough Marina in time for the midweek concert held during the summer months. Peterborough is the largest town along the Trent-Severn Waterway, with a population of over 81,000. It was a technology and manufacturing center for well over 100 years, with such companies such as Rolls-Royce, Siemens, General Electric, Quaker Oats, and Pepsi building a presence here. While some of these companies are still operating in Peterborough, in recent years there has been a shift toward service industries and tourism.</p>
<p>Among its many highlights, Peterborough is also known as the gateway to cottage country.</p>
<p>A major industry that started in Peterborough in the late 1850s was canoe building, and the Peterborough Canoe Company was founded in 1893. By 1930, fully 25 percent of all workers in Canada’s boat building industry worked in Peterborough. And with the opening of the hydro-electric generating station (which opened before the one at Niagara Falls), many companies located here to take advantage of the cheap new power source.</p>
<p>There are numerous museums, galleries, indoor and outdoor theaters, and other attractions. Unfortunately, cruisers passing through on their Great Loop don’t really have ready access to what the city has to offer, and the crew of Last Item were no different. Based in a marina, they are detached from the otherwise interesting attractions, nor do they take much time to explore.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Peterborough is the largest town on the Trent-Severn Waterway. On Thursday, July 7th, we rode our scooters up and down the streets but never found anything of real interest to us other than a lovely park along the waterfront.</p>
<p>“For the past several days, we have seen large trees either uprooted or broken off along the waterway, some landing in the water and some on land. When we asked some local boaters across from us, we learned that about a month ago an unusually large storm had come through the area. One person was killed, and power was out for a week for many people.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>One of the remarkable highlights of the Trent-Severn Waterway in Peterborough is the Peterborough Lift Lock, which opened in 1904. It is Lock #21 on the waterway and the highest hydraulic lift lock in the world.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We were at Lock #20 for the first opening of the day with three other boats. Peterborough Lock #21 was our first hydraulic lift lock.</p>
<p><img title="entering the pan at the peterborough hydraulic lift lock" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/peterborough-hydraulic-lift-lock.jpg?cb=F07DA695-BC51-69DF-34BD5834B7528CF2" alt="entering the pan at the peterborough hydraulic lift lock" width="800" height="456" /></p>
<p>All four boats squeezed into the 140-foot-long chamber (called a caisson), resembling a giant bathtub. There is an identical chamber next to it, but it is 65 feet above us. Once they close the back gates of both caissons, the upper caisson is filled with a foot more water than the lower caisson. The difference in weight lets gravity move the upper chamber down while the lower chamber rises. Within about two minutes (the fastest lock in the system), we rose 65 feet. Everyone on the boats were really excited about being in such a unique lock. There is another lift lock ahead of us, Kirkfield Lock #36, which we’ll see in a few days.</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: Almost to the top of the 65-foot rise in the lift lock.)</em></p>
<p><img title="top of the lift lock" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/65-foot-lift-lock.jpg?cb=F07DA691-B470-6435-E50F06944342AFD1" alt="top of the lift lock" width="800" height="652" /></p>
<p>“In six and a half hours, we locked through eight locks and traveled 16 miles. We cruised at five knots on the Otonabee River, went through Lake Katchewanooka, Clear Lake, and into Stoney Lake.</p>
<p>The other three boats in our little flotilla continued to Buckhorn. But we already knew that the lock wall there was full of boats.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>One of the many revelations when traveling in company with other boats is seeing how the crews handle the many different situations encountered. Whether navigating swift waters such as Dodds</p>
<p>Narrows off Vancouver Island in British Columbia or picking a way through the shallow waters of Little Bahamas Bank to reach Mangrove Key from West End, the many shapes and layouts of <a href="../../../../used-cruising-yachts-for-sale/">cruising boats</a> routinely switch between making something easier or more difficult.</p>
<p>Such was the observations with Sidonia and Fred on their <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> 405 Coupe.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“After being in the locks with other boaters and seeing what some of them must go through when locking up, we really appreciate our boat and how easy it is to handle. We watch others climbing up and down steep ladders from their flybridges, trying to grab the cables before their boat’s stern floats out into the middle of the locks. We’ve seen no accidents, but it seems a bit chaotic.</p>
<p>“We planned to anchor in Stoney Lake, which is full of little islands. Fred found a quiet spot between Pompadour and Halls Islands. It turned out it wasn’t quite as quiet as we thought. There were several small aluminum boats with outboards running at full speed through the area. We had only been anchored for a couple of hours when a man in a boat came by and encouraged us to move to another spot. He said on Friday nights there are lots of parties and noise as people run around in their boats till midnight and beyond. We were right in the path of a frequently used route.</p>
<p>“We took his advice and moved to another spot nearby. After dinner, though, another boater came by and told us the same thing and suggested a safer anchorage. Once again, we hauled anchor and this time tucked into the southern end of Juniper Island away from any possible busy routes.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Stoney Lake is about 20 miles long and has more than 1,000 islands. The lake is a primary location for summer cottages although there is an increasing number of full-time residents. In addition to being part of the Great Loop, it is very popular with thousands of fishermen during the season, who fish for largemouth bass, walleye, bluegill, and Northern pike.</p>
<p>So far, the Nimbus Coupe has been running great. But the next morning, when Fred got ready to make coffee, he could not start the generator. Scratching his head, he pulled out the manual and read the troubleshooting chapter. Then he went into the engine room, checked the oil in the generator, and looked for an override switch which he could not find. It was Saturday, so there was no one to call for advice.</p>
<p>Frustrated, he started the main engines, then pushed the start button for the generator, which started right up. Problems that come and go without explanation are one of cruising most frustrating challenges.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“After leaving Stoney Lake, we cruised through Lovesick Lake, Upper Buckhorn and Lower Buckhorn Lakes, Pigeon Lake, and Sturgeon Lake, all connected by narrow channels. Stoney Lake reminded us of the San Juan Islands because of the lichen-covered rock formations, but there are so many more very small islands here. We wound our way through these islands and wondered how people could possibly have done this before GPS.</p>
<p>“The walls and lock at Buckhorn were jammed with small boats, wave runners, houseboats, and more. People lined the lock walls to watch boats pass through. The lakes now were much busier, with waterskiers, wave runners, and speed boats pulling kids on inflatable toys. It was a warm, cloudless Saturday and everyone was out to enjoy it on the water.</p>
<p>“After six hours, we went through our sixth lock of the day, Fenelon Falls Lock #34, and arrived in Sturgeon Lake at the village of Fenelon.</p>
<p><img title="fenelon falls wall" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/wall-at-fenelon-falls.jpg?cb=F07DA68D-A608-EBDD-B8BEE09ACA624B28" alt="fenelon falls wall" width="800" height="469" /></p>
<p>We have now transited more than two thirds of the locks in the Trent-Severn Waterway. We are in no hurry, though. We heard that Lock #44, the Big Chute, isn’t working because of staffing shortages caused by retirements and Covid. Word has it that the lock may reopen on Wednesday. And it is only Saturday.</p>
<p>“There was no room on the wall, so we went back into Sturgeon Lake and anchored not far from the lock. We planned to go back when we saw an empty spot on the wall. At five o’clock, we thought the lock was closed for the day and we could tie up on the wall at the blue line waiting area. However, when we got there, the lock master told us the lock would stay open until 6:30 as it was a weekend. We retraced our steps and re-anchored. No more than fifteen minutes later, a local came by and told us there was now room at the wall as several small boats had just left. Up came the anchor again and we got a spot on the wall thanks to another nice Canadian.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Fenelon Falls is one of many quaint villages in the region, and a wonderful place for summer tourism and those who come to enjoy the cottages around the area.</p>
<p><img title="cottages" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/small-cottages.jpg?cb=F07DA689-9F89-AC4D-08AA33EF3A3161F7" alt="cottages" width="800" height="406" /></p>
<p>The village has a revitalized downtown and there are shops, bike paths, lots of outdoor activities, museums, and restaurants for every appetite. Like many towns along the waterway, it relies on those who come by boat or car to enjoy the waters and islands, as well as to see the mini “Niagara Falls” in the limestone gorge.</p>
<p>What is particularly interesting in this part of Ontario and particularly in locations such as Fenelon Falls is that the when the Covid pandemic shut down tourism, many chambers of commerce in Ontario got together and decided to take on the challenge of restarting tourism in more modern ways that offer an enticing tourism experience driven primarily by digital media. The Fenelon Falls & District Chamber of Commerce now have online resources designed to attract people to come and enjoy themselves in their special town.</p>
<p>For the next several days they stayed put, as did other Loopers waiting for the backlog to clear at the Big Chute. They rode the two blocks to Murthy’s Lockside Pub & patio for lunch, followed by a leisurely nap on the boat. Later they rode the scooters over to Garnet Graham Beach Park, a large city-run recreational area along the water’s edge.</p>
<p><img title="park in fenelon falls" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fenelon-falls-park.jpg?cb=F07DA67B-D927-7670-5F425A230FD9861F" alt="park in fenelon falls" width="800" height="582" /></p>
<p>“There were groups of people everywhere, picnicking at tables or on blankets spread on the grass. Children ran around in the spray pool and others played games provided by the park. We saw kids jumping into the water from an unused swing bridge. It was a delightful sight.”</p>
<p><img title="kids having fun" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/kids-having-fun.jpg?cb=F07DA684-E561-4771-7F8EB486750658DF" alt="kids having fun" width="800" height="584" /> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Another observation they had was that despite the fact there is water everywhere, boating takes a backseat to the tremendous interest in cottaging. The surrounding natural beauty is the obvious attraction and why so many people choose to spend their summers here. Every house or structure along the water is considered a cottage, no matter if it is 900 sq.ft. or 10,000.</p>
<p><img title="large cottage" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/large-cottage.jpg?cb=F07DA677-A56E-CA21-B6D97AE4790A6B75" alt="large cottage" width="800" height="443" /></p>
<p>Many of the downtown shops in Fenelon Falls cater to people decorating the interiors of their cottages and ‘bunkies,’ which the locals call the separate small guest houses (or tiny homes) alongside the main cottage. Like the camps one finds along the shores of the lakes in Maine, some of the cottages have been in the family for generations, some are close to 100 years old. Most do not have insulation and are built on top of sandstone.</p>
<p>Another thing they noticed was the difference in wildlife from what they are used to.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Boating in the Pacific Northwest means we see lots of wildlife. So far on this trip, other than birds, we have seen only turtles and a muskrat. Today, we saw a mink with a fish in its mouth. It must live in the area as we saw it two more times.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Staying in one place gave the couple time to socialize with other Loopers, something that is difficult when one travels every day. So, when the situation calls for a break from traveling, one must make the best of the opportunity. It is one of the joys of cruising.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“As we enjoyed drinks in the cockpit for happy hour, we invited another Looper couple, who happened to stroll by, to come aboard and join us. They are Ron and Nancy on ‘Flying Colors’ from Minnesota. We were surprised to hear of their different style of boating in Minnesota. They spend their time in the St. Croix River, which has sandbars. The water is deep right up to the sandbar, so boats put their bows on the sand and secure their sterns with anchors to the beach.</p>
<p>“After a nice visit with Ron and Nancy, we returned to nearby Murphy’s for dinner. It was a very nice day.</p>
<p>“The next morning, Monday, July 11th, we wondered through town, looking for a bakery we had heard about. We ended up going across the canal to the White Cottage Cafe where we had a marvelous cherry cream cheese Danish.</p>
<p>“In the afternoon, we went to the Maryboro Lodge Museum, which began as a private estate in 1823, then became a tourist camp and boarding house and is now a museum. It has lots of interesting old tools and machinery, photographs, furniture, and clothing from the 1800s. It also has a room full of fun toys for children. It was just the right size, and not overwhelming.</p>
<p><img title="maryboro museum" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/maryboro-museum.jpg?cb=F07DA67F-DDE2-5E2E-071BD0E64FDDC742" alt="maryboro museum" width="800" height="457" /></p>
<p>“At 4:00, we joined five other Looper couples for ‘docktails’ at one of the picnic benches along the wall. We had a great time telling boating stories and more with some very nice people. We hope we will see some of them again as we continue along our way.”</p>
<p><img title="docktails with great loopers" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/docktails-with-loopers.jpg?cb=F07DA699-D2C5-38C0-9FE40A5900EA9551" alt="docktails with great loopers" width="800" height="416" /></p>
<p>While many of these people expected to leave the next day, the weather turned sour and rain and increasing winds forced the prudent cruisers to stay put one more day. It was a smart decision.</p>
<p>“I think the Loopers here with us feel that if we must stay somewhere because of a lock problem and/or bad weather, Fenelon Falls is a pretty nice place to be. It has the museum, the park, restaurants, boutiques, the necessary stores, shops and bakeries and everything is within easy walking distance.</p>
<p>“Tomorrow is supposed to be the day that the Big Chute, Lock #44, reopens. There is a backup of boats waiting at the lock and points along the way leading up to it. We could get there in two days but we will make a longer trip of it to let some of the backlog clear out.</p>
<p>“There is only one lock left after the Big Chute and then we’re about finished with the Trent-Severn. It has been such an enjoyable waterway, we hate to see it end.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The following day, the Loopers left. After another cherry cream cheese Danish from the White Cottage Café, Last Item also left Fenelon Falls, bound for the remainder of the Trent-Severn.</p>
<p>Kirkfield Lock #36 is the second of the two hydraulic lift locks in the Trent-Severn. Sidonia thoroughly enjoyed the two lift locks.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Though the regular locks are not difficult, the ‘big bathtub’ locks are so easy. No need to tend your lines and you’re down (or up) in two minutes. Lock #36 was the first lock where we entered at the top and were lowered instead of raised. On entering and looked forward, it was a bit like looking across an infinity pool as you see nothing but air beyond the gate. Once out of that lock, the water flows toward Georgian Bay and the channel markers are reversed, green to starboard, red to port.”</p>
<p>Once through Talbot Lock #38, they also noticed a changing landscape. There are fewer trees and one can see cultivated fields. They knew there was a lot of agriculture along the Trent-Severn from aerial photographs in the guidebook but from the deck of a boat it was difficult to see through the thick vegetation that lines both sides of the canals.</p>
<p>Another comment Sidonia made was when they cruised elsewhere in the world, they would never think of moving with fenders hanging over the sides. It is considered such bad form.</p>
<p>But throughout the Erie, Oswego, and Trent-Severn canals, everybody does just that. It isn’t worth the effort with such short distances between locks. In fact, the only times they pull aboard the fenders is when they cruise at 24 knots, which has not been very often since leaving Lake Ontario.</p>
<p>“We said goodbye to the really nice people we shared our locks with, Bill and Diane on ‘Odyssey,’ as they were continuing on while we chose to end our day just before Lock #40. As usual, we found the grounds on either side of the lock nicely groomed for a park-like setting. Along one side of the canal was a solid line of brown eyed Susans, lupine and Queen Ann’s lace. Prettier than a florist’s bouquet.”</p>
<p><img title="along the wall at lock 40" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/along-the-wall-at-lock.jpg?cb=F07DA673-F130-7E87-EA82D4B78FB58E85" alt="along the wall at lock 40" width="800" height="443" /> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>The couple made it across Cameron Lake and Balsam Lake, then Mitchell Lake and Canal Lake. They followed narrow waterways several miles long connecting the lakes. The water is so shallow in these narrow waters their depth sounder stopped registering the depth at 3.5 feet under the transducer, which is a couple of feet below the waterline. At times, it also seemed tree branches would brush against the boat as they passed by, but they never touched.</p>
<p>By now, of course, the couple knew some of the other Loopers also on the same route. And every so often they would come across a boat they recognized.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Ron and Nancy on ‘Flying Colors’ had already locked through Lock #40 and were tied to the wall below. They walked up the steps to our level and visited with us for awhile.</p>
<p>“All the locks have names, and most are named for the town they are in or nearby. We caught the first opening of Thorah #40 the next morning at 9:00am.</p>
<p>“We flew across Lake Simcoe, entered Lake Couchiching, and were safely docked at the Port of Orillia marina by 11:30. I really thought we were going to go aground as we churned up mud getting to our assigned slip as it was so shallow around the marina. The marina itself is a very nice facility, with new dock surfaces, collapsible cleats, free laundry, and very nice bathrooms and showers. And, of course, a nice staff.</p>
<p>“Roger and Marilyn (‘Uncle Wiggley’) were docked here as well. They came over for happy hour and Marilyn brought us some decadent butter tarts. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit with them. Coincidentally, they had previously managed Spanish Key in the Bahamas, a place with which we were quite familiar.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Orillia is a large city in Ontario with a population of 33,000. It is located between two connected lakes, Lake Couchiching and Lake Simcoe. Known for its attractions, museum, and art exhibits, these things are not close to the marina, so Sidonia and Fred did not take the time to do much exploring. They were looking forward to the Big Chute, and the end of the Trent-Severn Waterway at Port Severn.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“There is a swing bridge with a 14-foot clearance before one reaches Couchiching Lock #42. We caught up with ‘Uncle Wiggley,’ waiting for the bridge to open. A large electronic sign read ‘Next Opening 9:45ish.’ We got a kick out of that. But that was a half hour from now, and Fred thought we could make it under the bridge.</p>
<p><img title="swing bridge at big chute lock" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/big-chute-awaiting-entry.jpg?cb=F07DA66F-BB0B-D0EB-1AA06E4BB2922999" alt="swing bridge at big chute lock" width="800" height="464" /></p>
<p>“He had me take the controls while he stood up on the bow to watch. We went under the bridge at less than a snail’s pace and just barely ‘twanged’ the cell phone booster antenna as we passed under the bridge.</p>
<p>“From there, we traveled through Sparrow Lake and the Severn River. The landscape felt like we were on a mountain lake. Pine and fir tree needles blanketed the ground around the cottages, and large, rocky outcroppings were visible in the narrow river and canal.</p>
<p>“After Couchiching Lock #42 and Swift Rapids Lock #43, the eagerly anticipated Big Chute was in sight.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Big Chute Marine Railway is the only marine railway of its kind still in use in North America. It is a vital connection in the Great Loop, taking boats in individual 80-foot cradles up and over the land to</p>
<p>Georgian Bay. The current railway began operations in 1978.</p>
<p>Interestingly, there were plans in the 1960s to replace the Big Chute with a lock between the river and Georgian Bay. However, the invasive sea lamprey was discovered in the waters at the base of the railway. These creatures were devastating the fishing industry in the Great Lakes, and efforts to keep them from migrating further proved ineffective. A marine biologist soon discovered, however, that any lampreys that attached themselves to the bottom of boats on the railway fell off after a short distance.</p>
<p>So, authorities decided the railway was a very effective way to prevent further lamprey migration. In 1976, a new, enlarged railway was built to handle the ever-increasing boat traffic.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“It was not a very reassuring looking piece of equipment as it rumbled down the slope toward the water. It is old and rusty. We were the only boat waiting to ‘climb aboard.’ We were beckoned slowly forward until we were situated properly over the two slings. The slack was taken out of the slings, until we were firmly held in place, and all was ready to make the 600-foot ride over the hill to Georgian Bay.</p>
<p>“The Big Chute started slowly moving up the hill, leaving the water behind. It is engineered so that boats in the chute are always level. The chute clanks, jerks, and rattles, and sounds and feels a little scary. And there were quite a few people there to watch and take photos and videos with their cell phones. I sat on the bow and took my own photos while Fred took photos of me on the bow.</p>
<p><img title="watching from the bow" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/best-spot-for-amazing-view.jpg?cb=F07DA66A-CAF7-5933-D10EA2CA59E2B2EA" alt="watching from the bow" width="800" height="456" /></p>
<p>“When we reached the crest and started downhill, it was quite exhilarating. People below were calling out to me, and I asked if someone would email me a photo of us in the chute. One woman said she would, and I gave her our email address.</p>
<p><img title="the big chute" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/the-big-chute.jpg?cb=F07DA665-9A04-EA2D-DD707991EE18C97C" alt="the big chute" width="800" height="632" /></p>
<p>“As we exited the Big Chute, the people watching us cheered and waved. We felt like we had just split the tape at the finish line of a big race. It’s strange but both of us felt a little emotional. We’re not sure why but possibly because the Big Chute signifies that we are nearly the end of the Trent-Severn Waterway.</p>
<p>“We wish it would go on longer but there are more adventures ahead.</p>
<p>“We soon docked at Starport Marina near the village of Port Severn.”</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: This Post</p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
Last Item: Deeper Into The Trent-Severn Waterway |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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The Great Loop |
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2022-07-09 00:00:00.0 |
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<p><em>This is update #7 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a> in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Our last segment ended with the couple on their way to Trenton, Ontario, the entrance to the Trent-Severn Waterway. They had left Picton, a quaint and fun little town full of energy and people enjoying themselves during the summer and stopped for the night in Belleville.</p>
<p>They did not find any joie d’vivre in Belleville as in the previous Canadian towns. That is frankly understandable, as Belleville has a population about 10 times larger than the other towns they have visited in Canada.</p>
<p>Belleville is a commercial and industrial city, and home for companies and corporations too long to list. However, readers will recognize some of them: Proctor & Gamble, Kellogg’s, Parmalat Canada, and the Canadian headquarters of the North Carolina-based corporation of cloud communications, Avaya.</p>
<p>Instead of small downtown streets line with shops, restaurants, flowerpots, and ice cream parlors, Belleville has two large shopping malls. So, it was no surprise Sidonia and Fred had a different experience here.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“Our internet connection here has been a problem, so we hooked onto the marina wifi. We were finally able to catch up on emails and other things for which we needed the internet.</p>
<p>“We rode around town trying to find historical buildings or houses and anything that had historical interest. While we saw lots of old buildings, we saw no plaques to indicate dates or historical significance. We returned to the boat with our initial impression intact. Belleville did not impress us very much. On the other hand, Crate Marine was a very nice place to dock for a day or two.</p>
<p>“We left at 2:00pm on Friday, July 1st, and soon passed a large Canada Day celebration going on at a waterfront park.”</p>
<p>The distance from Belleville to Trenton is less than 10 miles, and as the waters begin to shallow, and there are water hazards that threaten larger, deep draft cruisers.</p>
<p>“As we approached Trenton, we passed a flock of mute swans and stopped so I could take a photo. When we started back up, we couldn’t get up on a plane. The water is shallow here and full of seaweed which had wrapped around our props. Fred reversed a few times and that seemed to help.</p>
<p>“Once we reached Trenton, we headed over to Trent Port Marina. As Fred backed into our slip, five men came down the finger pier to give us a hand. After we tied down, they stood around asking us about our boat and wanting to look inside. There were more compliments, and they were very impressed with the visibility we enjoy from the helm of the Nimbus 405 Coupe.</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: Trenton Port Marina.)</em></p>
<p><img title="trenton port marina" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/trenton-marina.jpg?cb=E4D078E0-C025-CC8D-60C6054CB9432E2A" alt="trenton port marina" width="800" height="460" /></p>
<p>“Later in the day, two locals stopped by to ask if we needed anything. They offered to drive us to the store or wherever we needed to go.</p>
<p>“Given the excitement of Canada’s national celebration, the marina was full of owners on their boats ready to watch the fireworks set off right across the river.</p>
<p>“We had the best seats in the house for the fireworks show and Trenton really puts on a great show. Some of the pyrotechnics seemed so close I expected sparks to rain down on our boat. When the impressive show ended, people all around us cheered, and, of course, everyone honked their horns.</p>
<p>“The Trent Port Marina is fairly new and the premium, 375-slip marina is the nicest we’ve ever been to. The main building is attractive and clean and offers a nice lounge and TV area. There are free laundry facilities and individual toilet and shower rooms that are sparkling clean. Altogether a very nice marina.</p>
<p>“While doing laundry the next morning, I enjoyed talking with two other Loopers, Elizabeth on ‘No Agenda’ and Lynn on ‘Acadia.’ We had seen their boats along the way but had not had a chance to talk with them.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Located on the Bay of Quinte, Trenton can handle the many tourists who arrive there, and many come on boats as part of the Great Loop. Trenton is the east end starting point for the Trent-Severn Waterway, which winds through Canada northwest to Peterborough and exits at Port Severn on Georgian Bay into Lake Huron.</p>
<p>The town offers many tourist attractions, and is home for many sports and recreation activities, with nine golf courses, hiking trails, even three hockey rinks.</p>
<p>Many years ago, Trenton was once considered “Hollywood North,” as film studios made silent movies here until the early 1920s.</p>
<p>Today its main employer is the Royal Canadian Air Force. The Canadian Forces Base Trenton/8 Wing is based here, a transport group with search and rescue operations. Trenton is also the site of the National Air Force Museum of Canada.</p>
<p>There is much to see and do in Trenton. And next week, Trenton will host its “Downtown Trenton’s Festival on the Bay,” a three-day festival of live music (all day for three days), sidewalk shopping, a fireworks and drone show, arts, pancakes for the kids… Three days of family fun to celebrate the summer. But Sidonia and Fred would miss the party as their journey continues.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“We rode our scooters through the nicely landscaped city park and around town, then picked up a few groceries at the Metro store, conveniently close to the marina. Just after we got back, another local boat owner came by and gave us freshly baked banana nut muffins.</p>
<p>“The hospitality we received in Trenton was second to none.</p>
<p>“A short taxi ride away from the marina is the Trenton Golf Club. It is quite different from the other courses we’ve played on this trip because it has many elevation changes, and the fairways are much drier. On many holes, we couldn’t see the distant green from the tees as they were behind a big hill or below us somewhere. But we lost no balls today.</p>
<p>“Back at the marina, we bought a couple of ice cream cones. The winds were up as we walked back to the boat, and my good old straw hat blew off my head into the water.</p>
<p>“We couldn’t reach it even stretched out with a golf club in hand. The wind was slowly moving my favorite hat toward another pier, so I went over to that pier and waited. It was nearly a half hour before the hat got just within grabbing range, then stopped as it stuck in a patch of weeds just out of reach. The brim was totally under water by now and only the tip of the crown was dry.</p>
<p>“I called Fred to bring our extendable boat hook but though he got it got close to the hat, we couldn’t quite reach it. Another fellow went to his boat and got an even longer boat hook. His first attempt completely submerged the hat. He stabbed again, though, and was able to get under the hat and bring it in to me.</p>
<p>“The hat looked pretty forlorn, and it may not ever regain its shape, but it’s been my ‘go to’ hat for such a long time, I would hate to lose it.”</p>
<p><img title="my hat is a total loss" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/hat-is-a-total-loss.jpg?cb=E4D078E5-9ED4-64F2-6C7470124240F696" alt="my hat is a total loss" width="800" height="494" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The next day, July 3rd, they would leave Trenton to enter the Trent-Severn Waterway (Trent Canal).</p>
<p>The canal connects Lake Ontario (at Trenton) to Georgian Bay (on Lake Huron) at Port Severn. This 240-mile waterway took 87 years to build and was completed in 1920. It includes 41 locks, and the lock chambers are 120-feet long and 32 feet wide. The waterway also includes a marine railway, and two hydraulic lift locks, one of which is the largest in the world, located at Peterborough, Ontario.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Of the many waterways along the Great Loop, one might argue this canal is the most exotic. It travels through beautiful sections of Canadian landscape. Over 122,000 boats travel this waterway each year.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“It’s official, we are now in the Trent-Severn Waterway. We were under way for five hours today and went a whopping six miles, going through six locks.</p>
<p><img title="trent-severn waterway" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/entering-the-trent-severn-waterway.jpg?cb=E4D078F3-0C4C-8221-B27688C3B8CEAD56" alt="trent-severn waterway" width="800" height="411" /></p>
<p>“At the first lock, we paid our transit fee of CAD $220, which is good for the entire waterway. The lock situation is a little different from the Erie and Oswego Canal locks. We locked up with the same three other boats through all six locks. These locks are small and only four boats in the 40–45-foot size range can fit.</p>
<p>“In the first three locks, we secured to the wall and another boat side-tied to us. The next three locks, we side-tied to another boat, which was easier as we didn’t have to tend our lines on the lock wall. One gets acquainted very quickly with the other boaters in the locks, as we are tied together for 20 to 30 minutes in each of the locks. It was a good time.</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: Some of the lockmasters had beautiful gardens.)</em></p>
<p><img title="lockmaster gardens" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lockmaster-gardens.jpg?cb=E4D078FB-C883-60F2-40C08521A9ED7AD0" alt="lockmaster gardens" width="800" height="430" /></p>
<p>“We were totally surprised when we got to the top of the first lock and saw two lock attendants hand-cranking the lock doors open. No modern hydraulic systems are used, as they want to keep the locks as original as they can.</p>
<p>“As we entered the third lock, it looked like Niagara Falls coming over the top gate (the hinged upstream doors at the front of the lock chamber). Water is not supposed to come over the top of the lock gates, but we were assured that everything was fine. As we were traveling up in height in the waterway, they explained there were water level fluctuations today. Earlier, they had to hold up several boats in the lock until the water on the high side went down to safe levels.</p>
<p><img title="overflow at the lock" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/overflow-on-the-lock-gate.jpg?cb=E8CFD174-FF19-BDC0-53487EB62F30F7C6" alt="overflow at the lock" width="800" height="470" /></p>
<p>“One of the lock attendants invited me to help crank the lock gates open. What looked like hard work was really very easy.</p>
<p><img title="opening the lock with a crank" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/opening-the-lock-gate.jpg?cb=E4D078EA-F3B1-D8AB-6FB451CFC152FEFD" alt="opening the lock with a crank" width="800" height="447" /></p>
<p>“We had hoped to tie to the wall after Lock #6 at the village of Frankford, but other Looper boats were already on the wall and there was no more room left for us. In our research we read about a restaurant serving terrific Asian fusion cuisine, and we really wanted to try it. So, we continued about a half-mile beyond the lock and anchored in a wide area in 9 feet of water. It was a very peaceful spot, with just a hint of occasional road noise from across the river, but mostly the lovely sounds of the breeze rattling the leaves in the trees and birds singing. It was very peaceful.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The next morning, on July 4th, the boats tied to the wall above Lock #6 in Frankford continued on their way up the waterway. The crew of Last Item, still keen to explore Frankford, raised anchor and headed back to the now-open lock wall.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, after riding across the bridge into the little town, they found the the Asian restaurant, Riverside Restaurant, closed and apparently permanently. Even though its voice message indicated they would be open for lunch, it was obviously closed. (Its web presence also indicates business as usual, but no doubt it was a victim of Covid, which shuttered many small businesses across North America.</p>
<p>Undeterred, they backtracked to Dimitri’s Pizzeria and Restaurant not far away, where they ordered fish and chips. During their meal they saw Loopers Tina and Tommy from their boat, “Two T’s Aweigh.” They had met the couple in Trenton, and they sat down to catch up.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“A little after 1:00, we headed out again. Most of the time now we traveled slowly to keep our wake down, because people fished from small boats and there were numerous waterside homes with docks and boats. Homeowners complain to the lock masters if boaters don’t show proper courtesy when traveling such narrow waters.</p>
<p>“We made it through Danger Narrows without incident. It doesn’t really pose any problems unless one gets out of the channel and among the rocks on which we saw turtles sunning themselves. We passed through several marshy areas and saw more swans.</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: A narrow passage on the Trent River.)</em></p>
<p><img title="narrow passage on the trent river" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/narrow-passage-on-trent-river.jpg?cb=E4D07904-CCD2-86D7-F0DE4A4329D8C5B5" alt="narrow passage on the trent river" width="800" height="470" /></p>
<p>“After going through Lock #7 at Glen Ross, we anchored off the main channel in a quiet side channel of the Murray Marsh called The Blue Hole. It is in a wetland that our Trent-Severn guidebook says is ‘one of the most valuable wetlands remaining in Ontario.’ On both sides there are acres of what look like cattails and waterlilies with bright yellow blossoms popping up.</p>
<p>“We covered 13 miles today in two hours and only had to transit one lock.</p>
<p>“We woke to raindrops on the boat, a wonderful sound that urged us to just turn over and go back to sleep. But we wanted to get an early start so we could cover more ground than we had in the past two days. So, we donned our rain gear and were ready for Lock #8 at Percy Reach when it opened at 9:00.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The day would prove to be a blur of slow travel, one lock after another, in quick succession. Locking through 10 locks over 26 miles made for a long day.</p>
<p>It was also today they experienced their first “flight locks,” where one travels into a lock only to exit into another lock. Locks #11 and #12 at Ranney Falls combine to raise the boat 48 feet.</p>
<p>And the rapid order Healey Falls locks (#15, #16, #17) took them up an additional 76 feet.</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: Flight Lock #16)</em></p>
<p><img title="flight lock 16" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/flight-lock-16.jpg?cb=E4D07908-B6A9-C879-AF6C7825D5642C6E" alt="flight lock 16" width="800" height="573" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>“After #17, we worked our way through 15 miles of islands in Seymour Lake. There were a few spots where we could speed up but there were still many waterfront homes, so we slowed down.</p>
<p>“Fred and I expected more uninhabited areas along the Trent Severn and were surprised to see so many waterfront cottages. It’s no wonder, though, as it is such a lovely area with quiet waters lapping near your front porch.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>When they arrived at Lock #18 in Hastings, they were told to stay put at the lower lock entrance as the wall above the lock was already full of boats.</p>
<p><img title="Lock Wall at Hastings" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lock-wall-at-hastings.jpg?cb=E4D078F7-D6F6-9752-73C2B64F695661C9" alt="Lock Wall at Hastings" width="800" height="509" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p>“The village of Hastings is small (population about 1,200) and without the tourism we’ve seen in other small towns. The next morning, we had an omelette at Bridgewater Coffee and Pizza, which was only a short walk from the boat.</p>
<p>“We left after breakfast and covered 42 miles in five hours. We made some speed through Rice Lake and occasionally in the river, but mostly our speed was no more than 7 knots.</p>
<p>“On entering Little Lake, we could see the 250-foot geyser of Peterborough’s famous fountain.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>“The Peterborough Marina is just beyond the edge of town. Not too far from the docks is a large grassy area with a stage where Peterborough puts on weekly concerts on Wednesday nights throughout the summer. Tonight’s the night for a concert.</p>
<p>“We heard the band practicing in the afternoon, and they sounded pretty good, but we’re glad our boat is on a dock farther away from the 20 speakers we saw on stage.</p>
<p>“One of the boaters we met in the locks yesterday has his boat just down the dock from us. Sadly, he told us he hit something along the way and damaged his props and the bottom of his boat. He arranged for a diver to check the damage and replace one of the props.</p>
<p>“We, too, brought spare props along, just in case.”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>On to Port Severn. See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: This Post</p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
Last Item: Into The Trent-Severn Waterway |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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Follow along with the latest updates from our Nimbus Boat owners as they travel the Great Loop. |
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<p><em>This is update #5 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along The Great Loop in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Having arrived in Rome, NY on June 12th, at the end of a long day punctuated by floating debris, sticks, and logs, Sidonia and Fred were nearing the end of their Erie Canal travels. There isn’t much going on in Rome, a quiet, family-oriented town of about 32,000 residents. Its claim to fame is that during the Industrial Revolution, it was known as “Copper City,” as the area provided about 10 percent of the nation’s copper needs, as well as brass. There is still an active copper rolling mill.</p>
<p><img title="debris in the water" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/river-with-tree-branches.jpg?cb=D9C21C81-E66E-5B0E-E5AC9FDB773EDF34" alt="debris in the water" width="800" height="557" /></p>
<p>The other bit of historical significance is that the construction of the Eire Canal began in Rome on July 4, 1817. The town later developed the Erie Canal Village to celebrate the original canal and its related history. But it has fallen into disrepair and efforts to rebuild and revitalize the village have been further delayed by lack of funds, sponsors, and the lingering effects of the Covid pandemic.</p>
<p>We pick up their story the following day, Monday, June 13th.</p>
<p>“There was a torrential downpour last evening. We could see on the weather radar that we were right at the heart of it. The storm ended our plan to walk into town for dinner. Instead, we ordered up a pizza from La Roma. One never knows how good a delivered pizza will be, but this one was exceptionally good.</p>
<p><img title="weather radar" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/radar-on-boat.jpg?cb=D9C21C9F-0F12-838D-0CE794402B009A76" alt="weather radar" width="800" height="586" /></p>
<p>“While in bed drinking our coffee the next morning, a large powerboat, around 55 feet, named ‘Our Shot’ went by at speed. We had no warning and were slammed against the dock and rocked back and forth several times. My coffee cup went flying all over the wall and the bed. We jumped out of bed in time to see his stern going by. I hope to run into him at some point and have a few words about boating courtesy. We checked for damage and, fortunately, found none. The three fenders we tied high up on the railings saved us from crashing against the dock.</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: Last Item tied to the dock. Note the separation in our rail for easy on and off. We were so close to bashing our tails when rocked by the passing boat.</em>)</p>
<p><img title="tied to dock" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nimbus-405-at-dock.jpg?cb=D9C21C9A-C750-7F2E-FFB6FCDB51FB5A98" alt="tied to dock" width="800" height="582" /></p>
<p>“We read that Mill Tavern served excellent burgers, so we walked about 3/4 of a mile from the boat to see if it was true. The place is not very nice, and the beer wasn’t cold, but the burgers were pretty good.”</p>
<p>The Erie Canal at this point takes a dip, and while generally the canal continues to raise the level of the waterway, for a short distance, boats are going down rather than up.</p>
<p>“At the New London Lock #22, we were surprised that we were now going downhill. Overall, we have gained 420 feet in elevation since leaving the Hudson River.”</p>
<p>As Last Item approached Oneida Lake, they found the shoreline much more populated than what they have seen for the last week. Oneida Lake is the largest lake within New York’s borders, roughly 21 miles long and five miles wide. It feeds Oneida River which flows into Lake Ontario. It is well known for its walleye and yellow perch, and the quality of the water has steadily improved over the last 30 years, particularly about E. coli.</p>
<p>Surprisingly the original Eire Canal bypassed Oneida Lake, but it now is a vital link between the canal and Lake Ontario.</p>
<p>When the Nimbus crossed the lake, the conditions were not as nice as one would expect on an inland lake. They saw two-foot waves, white caps, and occasionally larger waves, but the Nimbus “flew across at 21 knots and we were glad when the waves eased as we neared the west end and Brewerton.”</p>
<p>Most of the waterfront homes have small fishing boats or pontoon boats tied at their docks. And with so many Great Loop boats passing through Brewerton, it is no wonder the marinas are well run and offer most services for cruisers.</p>
<p>“We moored at Winter Harbor Marina with maybe two dozen other boats, several of which were also Loopers. We had visits with a couple of them as they strolled along the dock. Before starting our trip, based on what we had read, we thought Loopers would get together wherever they met up. We haven’t found that to be so. People seem to keep pretty much to themselves. I suppose we could walk around and make more of an effort to socialize but we haven’t.</p>
<p><img title="moored at winter harbor" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nimbus-boat-at-winter-harbor.jpg?cb=D9C21CA7-9B20-6BAF-83636F2DBD6A6533" alt="moored at winter harbor" width="800" height="448" /></p>
<p>“Winter Harbor is a very nice, full-service marina. The fee to dock is .90/ft, very cheap in our experience. We added some fuel which was $5.99/gal, also among the best prices we’ve seen. They have a ship’s store with just about any mechanical part one might need. The bathrooms are first class, they have a courtesy car you can use within a seven-mile radius, and they will even take you to the Syracuse airport for $25. That is cheaper than taking an Uber.</p>
<p>“We dumped the dinghy and putted about a mile upriver to the Wild Horse Bar & Grill for dinner. They serve a terrific Philly cheese steak sandwich and pretty good wings.</p>
<p>“Brewerton was also Mike’s jumping off point, as Syracuse airport is only fifteen minutes away. The next morning, June 14, just after noon, we waved a sad goodbye and a marina employee drove him to the airport. It’s going to be very quiet now and Ozzie will miss his playmate. We will miss him too.”</p>
<p>As they prepared to shove off the next day, they had a surprising encounter with a 44-foot Nordic Tug, with Seattle Yachts broker, Martin Snyder, along as crew. The boat left Essex, CT bound for Washburn, WI. They were in delivery mode.</p>
<p>“As we were getting ready to leave the dock, a trawler passed by, and a man yelled ‘Fred!’ We both looked up and waved but didn’t recognize who it was. We don’t know anyone else who is doing the Loop or that would be in this area. And the boat ‘Summer Wind’ wasn’t familiar to us either.</p>
<p>“After a few minutes, Fred said he thought the man looked a little like Martin Snyder from Seattle. We entered Brewerton Lock #23, our last lock on the Erie Canal, behind ‘Summer Wind.’ Once I had a secure hold of the rope on the lock wall, Fred went up to the bow and the man yelled to him ‘It’s <a href="../../../../yacht-broker/Martin-Snyder">Martin Snyder</a>.’ Martin worked with the yacht broker from whom we bought ‘Shearwater’ in 2006 and was on the sea trial with us in Taiwan. He had sold the <a href="../../../../new-nordic-tugs-for-sale/">Nordic Tug</a> to a couple and was helping them take it to Wisconsin.”</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: 'LAST ONE' leaves her last lock on the Erie Canal at Brewerton. Photo by Martin Snyder)</em></p>
<p><img title="Leaving the lock at Brewerton" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/coming-in-the-canal.jpg?cb=D9C21C8A-9609-D1E0-3F81A7CE866D3F31" alt="Leaving the lock at Brewerton" width="800" height="508" /></p>
<p>At this point, they had traveled some 153 miles on the Erie Canal since entering the canal at Waterford. They would now remain in the Oneida River until they came to the junction where the Oneida River meets the Seneca and Oswego Rivers. The Erie Canal continues, using the Seneca River west to Rochester, while the Oswego River takes one north to Lake Ontario.</p>
<p><img title="erie canal sign" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/erie-canal-marker.jpg?cb=DBB4E3E9-D049-0A97-38C0556E8EF7BD52" alt="erie canal sign" width="800" height="455" /></p>
<p>“Our next lock was Phoenix Lock #1 in the Oswego River and Canal. Immediately outside the lock’s exit gate was a vehicle bridge with a rather unique lifting system which looked like a big crane. At Fulton Lock #2, the lockmaster told us he took a picture of our boat and would post it on the AGLCA (American Great Loop Cruisers Association) <a href="https://www.facebook.com/AGLCA" target="_blank">Facebook page</a>.</p>
<p><img title="crane at lock" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/inside-the-canal.jpg?cb=D9C21C96-AF66-D2EC-53F6DE3E872B572C" alt="crane at lock" width="800" height="520" /></p>
<p>The couple made a good decision to not push on to Oswego, as it would make for a very long day, and they were in no rush. They decided to stop in Fulton. Fulton is like many upstate towns. It had a vibrant past, but now was little more than a shadow of what it used to be.</p>
<p>Fulton was named after Robert Fulton, the inventor of the steamboat. The town was a hustling manufacturing center at one time. American Woolen Mills was a textile manufacturer of military uniforms for our servicemen in both world wars, but it shut down in the early 1950s. Fulton Fan was among several other companies that had a presence in Fulton during its busy years. Even the company that eventually became part of Nestle was in Fulton, the first chocolate manufacturing facility in the country. Sadly, after over 100 years of operation, the aging facility closed in 2003, eliminating some 400 jobs.</p>
<p>There are several similar stories of upstate towns that once carried the torch of American ingenuity and manufacturing talent that wowed the world.</p>
<p>“When we arrived in Fulton, we found there was an area separate from the river with small docks about 18-feet long. I was surprised that Fred would want to use one of them. When jockeying into position to put our stern in first, however, our bow was dangerously close to the breakwater, but he made it without bumping. A man on the other boat moored here came over and gave us a hand with our lines. As Fred plugged us in, the man said he couldn’t get power with his type of cord so Fred loaned him one of ours.</p>
<p><img title="Nimbus docked stern first" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/at-the-marina.jpg?cb=D9C21C86-9B21-6073-E6FFBF7CBD488240" alt="Nimbus docked stern first" width="800" height="414" /></p>
<p>“Fred walked a few blocks to look around town and I stayed aboard. He said there wasn’t much to see.</p>
<p>“A little later, we invited the man and his wife over for happy hour. They are Ron and Kathy aboard ‘Osprey,’ a 40-year-old 32-foot Silverton that they bought online, sight unseen. They are doing a short loop from Rochester through the Erie to Buffalo. They were a delightful couple, and we had a fun, two-hour happy hour with them.”</p>
<p>The next morning, Thursday, June 16, after a night complete with a strong thunderstorm and pelting rain, they got ready to leave the dock at 9am. The next lock, #3, was still in Fulton, less than a mile from the last lock. After that would be Minetto Lock #5 in Oswego, six miles further north. But what happened to Lock #4?</p>
<p>“I asked the lockmaster and he laughed. He said everybody asks that question. There is no Lock #4.</p>
<p>“The gates of Lock #5 were open, but neither the green nor red light was on, so we were unsure whether to enter. Fred radioed the lockmaster three or four times but got no answer. We could see him in his little hut, but he didn’t come out. Finally, he came out and yelled at us, in a very unfriendly tone, to enter the lock. Fred yelled back that there was no green light and no answer to his VHF call. The man ignored us. This was the only unpleasant lockmaster we’ve encountered.</p>
<p>As we exited Lock #8 in Oswego, ahead of us was Lake Ontario. Oh boy, did it look big and endless! As it was very windy, no boats were going anywhere, so we fueled up at Oswego Marina and then slid into a slip there among the other boats waiting out the weather. The current forecast for crossing the lake appeared to be Monday, which will give us three days to explore Oswego and maybe play some golf.”</p>
<p>Among the many interesting historical facts about Oswego are Fort Ontario, and the weather.</p>
<p>The fourth and current Fort Ontario was built between 1839 and 1844 and was home for a brigade of the 1st Infantry Division of the U.S. Army. During WWII, President Roosevelt designated the fort to be a camp for approximately 1,000 Jewish refugees, from 18 different countries. It became known as “Safe Haven.”</p>
<p>Fort Ontario has been restored to its time when soldiers and officers were stationed there, as well as a Safe Haven Museum.</p>
<p>In terms of weather, Oswego is one of the snowiest towns in the country. Because of the lake effect and its location on Lake Ontario snow accumulation can reach 300 inches of snow a year.</p>
<p>“Fred scootered over to Enterprise this morning and rented a car. We then went to Tamarack Golf Club and played nine holes. There was no tee time reservation needed and the course was nice other than it had many water hazards. Luckily, Fred found about as may balls as I lost.</p>
<p>“Other than a few Loopers who are docked here, every boat is a fishing machine. We have and are used to seeing two downriggers on boats in the Pacific Northwest. Here they have three to six downriggers per boat, and they troll up to fourteen lines. When they get a fish on, they don’t stop to bring it in, they keep trolling. They go for brown trout, chinook salmon, and steelhead which are all hatchery fish. Fred noticed that the salmon they catch were shaped a little differently with a deeper belly and smaller head than our more slender West Coast salmon.</p>
<p><img title="fishing boat in oswego" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fishing-boat-in-oswego.jpg?cb=D9C21C8E-AA4F-AAA7-7F921CE6E2413995" alt="fishing boat in oswego" width="800" height="515" /></p>
<p>“We had a very good dinner at La Pilla which is only a block away from the marina.</p>
<p>“We had 25 mph winds all night. Between the squeaking of the lines and the docks, the jerking motion of the boat, and the freight train moan of the wind, we didn’t get much sleep. One dock squeak sounded so much like a cat yowling that I got up to make sure that it was really a dock.</p>
<p>“We decided it was a good day to get off the boat and do something else, so we drove a bit over two and a half hours to Niagara Falls. We took the more scenic route through rural countryside on a two-lane road. Despite having seen many photos, videos, and movies of the falls, they are extremely impressive in person. The amount of water flowing over is amazing and such a lovely color. Since being in the Chesapeake and the canal and rivers, we have become accustomed to the grayish brownish water. So, it was a treat to see the clear blue of the Niagara River and falls.</p>
<p><img title="niagra falls" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fred-and-sidonia-at-niagra-falls.jpg?cb=D9D11715-A260-843F-4E88E3DE76FA4167" alt="niagra falls" width="800" height="526" /></p>
<p>“We did not go on the Maid of the Mist boat, as the line of waiting people was almost endless. We did get ‘misted’ though just watching from the overlook. On the way back, we took the freeway which, like the scenic route, also went mostly through rural farmland with horses, cows, apple orchards, and crops.”</p>
<p>As cruiser know (or soon find out), it is best when you don’t follow a schedule. There are too many variables when cruising that one has no control over. And it is also best to refrain from getting into delivery mode if there is no need to rush. In contrast to Sidonia and Fred, the crew on the Nordic Tug are well beyond the Erie Canal and almost through the Welland Canal into Lake Erie. But they are bringing their boat home to Wisconsin, not enjoying the sights of the Great Loop. It is a world of difference. Sidonia and Fred may only run a few hours a day or make some distance and then stay for a couple of days to explore, learn, and enjoy.</p>
<p>And, so far, their Nimbus is proving to be a good choice for the challenges of the Great Loop.</p>
<p>“Back at the marina, a couple came by and asked about our boat. We have had so many people come by and look at our boat and ask questions about it. Most of them have never heard of a <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a>, but remark on what a pretty boat we have and that it looks like a great boat for doing the Loop.”</p>
<p>The weather forecast that kept everyone safe in the marina was spot on. The winds continued to howl, and the seas remained too rough to even consider venturing out on big water. Time to chill and check out Oswego.</p>
<p>“Another night of bouncing around in the slip. We had tightened our lines to the dock on the starboard side and added another line to the port side stern but still couldn’t prevent the yawing and jerking. While I washed our laundry, I filled out the ArriveCAN form for entry into Canada. After a couple of failed attempts, it went through. We are to complete and submit the form no more than 72 hours before we cross into Canada.</p>
<p>“Fort Ontario is just two or three blocks from the marina. The original fort was built in 1755 by the French. It later housed British soldiers, then U.S. soldiers and was also used to house Jewish refugees during WWII. There are reenactments held only on certain holidays, but we did get to see a musket firing demonstration.</p>
<p><img title="soldier" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/soldier.jpg?cb=D9C21C92-F9AB-9A0D-B9342B799D28774F" alt="soldier" width="800" height="495" /></p>
<p>“After lunch we went to the Richardson-Bates House Museum but unfortunately, it is open only two days a week and Sunday isn’t one of them.</p>
<p>“We did our grocery shopping, returned the rental car, and got ready to leave in the morning. Many boats have been waiting longer than us so I’m sure it will be a mass exodus tomorrow as the wind is forecast to die down tonight.”</p>
<p>Lake Ontario is the easternmost of the Great Lakes. With a maximum length of 193 miles and maximum width of 53 miles, it is small by comparison to other lakes in the Great Lakes, but it is still quite a large body of water.</p>
<p>Lake Ontario plays a major role in the possible routes one might take when doing <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">the Great Loop</a>. If height restrictions do not allow a boat to make the complete transit of the Erie Canal into Lake Erie, Loopers can head west across Lake Ontario to the Welland Canal, which brings one up and into Lake Erie.</p>
<p>Cruisers planning to use the Trent-Severn Waterway into Georgian Bay on their Loop will head northwest from Oswego to Trenton, Ontario.</p>
<p>Still others may choose to set a course north to Kingston, Ontario, and the Rideau Canal, or into the St Lawrence River and the Thousand Islands. All are fabulous cruising grounds and represent some of the most beautiful sections of the waterways in North America.</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: A Lighthouse at the entrance to Oswego from Lake Ontario.</em>)</p>
<p><img title="lighthouse" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lighthouse-on-the-water.jpg?cb=D9C21C7D-048A-A7B4-380C0943995A6EE7" alt="lighthouse" width="800" height="425" /></p>
<p>It will be interesting to see which direction Last Item will head.</p>
<p>“At 6:00am this Monday morning, engines and bow thrusters are running as the Loopers begin heading out. We stayed in bed with our coffee. Before we left, Fred washed the decks and windows and I cleaned up inside. We set out at 10:30 through very deep, nasty troughs at the bar between the breakwaters. We were now officially in Lake Ontario.</p>
<p>“We ran at 23-24 knots for an hour and a half, about 30 miles, until we were at the beginning of the Thousand Islands on the St Lawrence River. There are more than a thousand islands in this area without counting the rocks. It is said that to qualify as an island, there must be at least two trees on it.</p>
<p>“We first anchored on the east side of Fox Island in about 8 feet of water. The island is very flat like the islands in the Bahamas, except here there are lots of trees.</p>
<p>“The wind was coming from one direction and the waves, though not large, were coming from another, which made for an uncomfortable anchorage as the boat rolled from side to side. By 4:00pm, we’d had enough. I would have had a difficult time making dinner.</p>
<p>“So, we hauled anchor and ran for an hour, 22 miles, and anchored in 6 feet of water in a bay by Grindstone Island, across from the town of Clayton, NY. On the way, we saw our first Great Lake cargo ships, many of which carry supplies to Detroit for steel mills of the auto industry.”</p>
<p>Where to next? See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: This Post.</p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
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<p><em>This is update #4 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along The Great Loop in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>We pick up from last time at the floating docks in Waterford, NY. The town is the eastern entrance of the Erie Canal, the second longest canal system in the world. End to end it is 363 miles long, connecting the Hudson River with Lake Erie at Buffalo. There are a total of 34 locks that allow boats to travel from Waterford to Buffalo, ascending 565 feet by the time one reaches Lake Erie.</p>
<p>The Erie Canal is open from May to November of each year and used by thousands of boaters from around the world.</p>
<p>On June 8th, Last Item left Waterford around 9:00am and entered Lock #2, no more than an eighth of a mile away from where they spent the night on the floating dock. (Lock #1 was the Federal Lock they transited in Troy.)</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: Lock #2 on the Erie Canal.</em>)</p>
<p><img title="lock 2 on erie canal" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/erie-canal-lock-2.jpg?cb=EA7E2245-BFCD-E514-C074404ECDFE1636" alt="lock 2 on erie canal" width="800" height="539" /></p>
<p>“There was one other boat behind us. After Lock #2, we had #3, #4, #5, and #6 right in succession. Most of the time, the next lock would already be open as the lock master knew there were boats coming. The canal between the locks was scenic, almost park-like in places, but there were some houses along the edge as well. In the narrower parts, one could imagine being in the jungles along the Orinoco River in South America with crocodiles swimming by.</p>
<p>“We cruised along at a speed just below 7 knots. It was very peaceful.”</p>
<p>The <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> 405 Coupe were now in the Mohawk River (part of the canal’s renovation took advantage of the paralleling rivers originally avoided in the first Erie Canal). Once beyond the Crescent Lock #6, the last in Waterford, the waterway opens and seems more like a lake. While they could have increased their boat speed at this point, they chose to “just poke along and enjoy the view.”</p>
<p>At the Vischer Ferry Lock #7 in Niskayuna, before Schenectady, they had a bit of a situation.</p>
<p>“I had looped my line around the vertical cable and secured it to the midship cleat as before but tightened it up more to keep us from moving forward and backward along the lock wall.</p>
<p>“As we rose to the top of the lock, however, the line came to the top of the vertical cable and stopped, while the boat kept rising. By the time I realized the line had no more slack, the boat was being pulled downward on the starboard side next to the wall.</p>
<p>“I frantically tried to loosen the line from the cleat, but it was so tightly around the cleat I could not get it undone. I yelled at Fred to get a knife, which he did immediately. The line was extremely taut but when Fred gave it a whack, the line snapped like a broken rubber band and the boat bounced back to level.</p>
<p>“We had no damage, but we did learn a valuable lesson.”</p>
<p>The area that is now Schenectady was originally the land of the Mohawk tribe of the Iroquois Nation. First settled by Dutch colonists in 1661, it later became known as "The City that Lights and Hauls the World," because Thomas Edison established the Edison Electric Company here (now known as General Electric). The American Locomotive Company was also located in Schenectady.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, the world has changed, and many of the cities in upstate New York have gone through difficult times with a serious loss of opportunity. The Schenectady population has steadily declined since 1950.</p>
<p>Sidonia and Fred prefer small towns whenever possible, so they bypassed Schenectady and stopped instead in Scotia, NY. It is a small community town of around 7,700 people. Among its many parks and active waterfront activities, the town is also home of the U.S. Water Ski Show Team.</p>
<p><img title="waterskiiers" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/waterskiiers.jpg?cb=EA374195-CD33-75FE-857F84300E2EEE50" alt="waterskiiers" width="800" height="613" /></p>
<p>“We passed Schenectady by and went off the beaten path a little to the village of Scotia. The marina, which lies beside a nice waterfront park, only holds eight boats and we were the only one there. It was difficult getting into the little slip, as the current and wind were both against us. The boat that had been behind us in all the locks was coming in to dock with us until he saw the difficulty we were having.</p>
<p><img title="Nimbus Last Item docked" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nimbus-405-last-item-at-dock.jpg?cb=EA374189-08C0-6BE2-2DC50FAD55C9F44E" alt="Nimbus Last Item docked" width="800" height="428" /></p>
<p>“He turned around, went back into the main canal, and continued to Amsterdam.</p>
<p>“Across the street from the dock is Rotary Park, which is huge. There are several baseball diamonds, tennis courts, and lots of open space. When we walked to dinner, we stopped for awhile and watched the little leaguers play.</p>
<p>“At the edge of the park is the Scotia library, located in a building built in 1730.</p>
<p><img title="library" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/library.jpg?cb=EA37418C-E18F-EC08-BC3CA5F96686CCB5" alt="library" width="800" height="492" /> <img title="sign for abraham glen house" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/abraham-glen-house-sign.jpg?cb=EA374186-D23F-40A3-010D6BAA6D209E4D" alt="sign for abraham glen house" width="800" height="516" /></p>
<p>“We had a great prime rib dinner at the Turf Tavern about half a mile from the dock.”</p>
<p>It rained through the night and for most of the morning, so the crew of Last Item stayed put for another day. As cruisers often find, by choosing to stay rather than push on, there can be rewards beyond what one might expect. They learned, once again, the value of no schedule.</p>
<p>“We had a wonderfully quiet night. At so many of the marinas we’ve been to, there is steady foot traffic, running boat engines, loud conversations, and lots of noise.</p>
<p>“At noon and between rain showers, we walked up to Jumpin’ Jacks for a burger. It is THE place to go in Scotia. The night before when walking to dinner, Jacks’ parking lot was jammed full of cars. One eats outside under separate covered areas, each with about five picnic tables. At lunch, it was still busy but nothing like the night before. Despite the obvious popularity of the place, the burgers and shakes were okay, but we weren’t overly impressed.</p>
<p>“Late in the afternoon, we were treated to a waterski show. We had seen a sign at Jacks stating they sponsored a waterski show every Tuesday as there is a waterski school in town. The skiers we saw practicing were experienced as the first group of five skiers went by all together. Five young women tried to form a pyramid but couldn’t quite get the fifth person on top. Four men and a small boy were later able to make a pyramid.”</p>
<p>Sidonia, Fred, and their son Mike, walked to Dunkin’ Donuts for breakfast the next morning before getting under way. It was Friday, the sun was out, and they were ready to see what was around the next corner.</p>
<p>And what happened next has happened to many boat owners, including me.</p>
<p>“Mike was handling the stern line as we slowly pulled away. When we were about five feet from the dock he yelled, “Stop, stop, stop.” Fred immediately stopped the boat, not knowing what the problem was, but then saw he had forgotten to unplug us from shore power. One of the two plugs we had plugged in was destroyed. We will still have power for the trip, but we can’t run too many electrical devices at the same time.</p>
<p><img title="marine plug" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/marine-plug.jpg?cb=EA3741A2-BD00-F154-B0CE3D58209316A9" alt="marine plug" width="527" height="657" /></p>
<p>“Then, when we started to get up on a plane, we could feel a vibration. We ran for awhile and then stopped, put the engines in reverse, revved them up, then started forward again. The vibration was gone. There are sticks floating down the canal and a small one must have lodged in one of our props.”</p>
<p>Their preferred side of the boat for docking and locking is the starboard side. The Nimbus was designed with a wide side deck on the starboard side for that reason, as most times one can choose what side to fuel, dock, and go through a lock.</p>
<p>On this day, however, they would find it necessary to change fenders from one side to the other as the locks did not consistently allow them to be starboard side to. Scotia Lock #8 was fine, but for the next two locks they had to move all six fenders to the port side. They found it wasn’t that easy to move fenders and it took time. Locks #11 through #16 were all starboard and then #17 was on the port side. Little Falls Lock #17 also has a guillotine-style gate, and it is very slow. The lift is 40 feet, the highest they encountered so far on the Erie Canal but also the slowest. It took 30 minutes to get through the lock.</p>
<p>“As we continued to our next stop, the Mohawk River grew narrower with little sign of humanity along the shores. A highway ran alongside but was only occasionally visible through the trees and shrubs which came right to the edge and hung into the water. We saw very few houses but every so often we came upon a small park or an RV park. We went for miles without seeing another boat.</p>
<p>“When anticipating the Loop, we pictured a flotilla of boats moving along and crowded together in the locks. At this point, we have been the only boat in the locks except one time.</p>
<p>“We arrived in Little Falls around 4:00pm and tied to the wall with a park alongside. A woman, walking with her toddler, came over by us and told her little boy, ‘Tell the people, Welcome to Little Falls.’ In his cute little baby way, he did.</p>
<p><img title="boat parked alongside wall" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/last-item-parked.jpg?cb=EA37419F-B78B-1C83-6C564CC2397116AC" alt="boat parked alongside wall" width="800" height="600" /></p>
<p>“After dinner, we walked across the park to the taco/burger/ice cream stand in a colorful little trailer. There were four, umbrella covered tables, and everything was gayly painted with flowers and other happy designs. A single scoop soft ice cream cone was about 6 inches high above the cone. Mike got a double. I had to put half of mine in a dish. Fred had a chocolate sundae which overflowed its dish.”</p>
<p>Little Falls has the second smallest city population in the state. Surrounded by dairy farms, it was once a major center of cheese manufacturing. At its peak the town had 13,000 residents. It is another example of the general decline in populations in upstate New York, as manufacturing, textile, and other industries closed or moved elsewhere.</p>
<p><img title="sign for little falls" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/little-falls-ny.jpg?cb=EA374198-B284-C637-9774FE8BF1E034AF" alt="sign for little falls" width="800" height="600" /></p>
<p>“I went up to the large old building where the marina office is located to do some laundry. Washing and drying laundry was cheap, $1.50 each. While my clothes were washing, I wandered around and took a few photos.</p>
<p>“The woman from the marina office came over and asked if I’d like a tour of the old canal building where they used to on and offload the barges, and she would tell me about some of the history. I called Fred so he could come and see/listen as well. It was interesting and so nice of her to take the time with us.</p>
<p>“Mike walked and we rode our scooters across the canal bridge and into town, about 3/4 of a mile. We toured around a few blocks and poked our heads into a Catholic church built around 1912.</p>
<p>“A friendly lady started talking to us and telling us about the town. People here are so friendly and helpful. We went to the grocery store and then looked for a restaurant for lunch. We like to have a beer with our lunch but couldn’t find a restaurant that sold any.</p>
<p>“So, we came back to the taco/burger stand by the boat, Fred brought over three Coronitas from the boat and we drank them with huge, delicious burritos at the colorful picnic tables.”</p>
<p><img title="picnic tables" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/food-truck.jpg?cb=EA374192-B970-4109-694D0868CD593324" alt="picnic tables" width="800" height="600" /></p>
<p>One of the things that got me stoked to follow their journey is that Sidonia and Fred are very experienced cruisers, having cruised the East and West coasts of North America, the Caribbean, and both side on the Panama Canal. Even so, I wondered what new things they would find on this adventure, and how cruising on the Great Loop compared to the serious coastal cruising they have done in the past.</p>
<p>“After more than 50 years of boating in the Pacific Northwest, Canada, and Alaska, we are used to floating docks. Very seldom do we have to tie to a stationary one.</p>
<p>“When we first heard about mooring to walls in the little towns along the Erie Canal, we thought ‘No Way,’ we’ll find a dock. Since having to tie up to the wall in Little Falls, we have decided we like walls. We have a break in our starboard rail which makes it so easy to step on the top of the bulwark and right onto land.”</p>
<p>Speeds along the Erie Canal are mostly on the slow side, although some of the stretches of open water allow fast travel if the boat can do it. The Nimbus, with a cruising speed of 23 knots, offers the speed flexibility that is ideal for this section of <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">the Great Loop</a>.</p>
<p>Sidonia finishes up this week’s entry in the travels of Last Item:</p>
<p>“We left this morning at 10:15am. The speed limit beyond Jacksonburg Lock #18 is 10mph, as we’ve seen before. It’s often difficult to discern if we’re in the Erie Canal or the Mohawk River. In the more eastern part of the canal, the speed limit was 10-45 mph, now it is 10-30 mph.</p>
<p>“Every so often we pass under a guillotine-like gate structure. They are used to close off sections of the canal in case there’s a break in the waterway, an accident of some kind, to control flooding, or if a section of canal needs to be drained to perform maintenance.</p>
<p>“There has been much more debris in the canal today and, at one point, we hit a small log. We were going slowly, and it only hit the forward part of the hull, thankfully not our props. At Lock #19, there were many sticks and other debris spanning the entrance to the lock. When the lock started spilling its water to get to our level, the debris moved toward us. Luckily, it also dispersed a bit so when we began our entry, we could maneuver through all the sticks and small logs.</p>
<p><img title="sign for rome new york" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/rome-new-york-sign.jpg?cb=EA37418F-939B-49B4-9B9F397DF8B29EE2" alt="sign for rome new york" width="800" height="550" /></p>
<p>“We arrived in Rome, NY at 3:00pm. As we were tying up, we noticed that a man, fishing from the wall, had something on his line. Fred got off the boat to go see what the catch would be. The man fought the fish for at least ten minutes and finally pulled in a big carp.</p>
<p><img title="carp" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/carp.jpg?cb=EA37419C-CA8B-8F25-F8C599681DA82121" alt="carp" width="800" height="841" /></p>
<p>“Fred held the rod for him so he could net the fish. Mike and I trotted up to see the fish up close. I was surprised to see it was quite pretty. The man said we brought him good luck as he had never caught one this big before.</p>
<p>“He then released the fish back into the canal.”</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: This Post</p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
Last Item: On To Rome! |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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The Nimbus 405 Coupe named LAST TIME is headed to Rome, New York on their Great Loop trip. |
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<p><em>This is update #3 as we cover Fred and Sidonia St. Germaine's trip along The Great Loop in their Nimbus 405 Coupe. Links to the other updates are below.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>We last left Sidonia and Fred at Mansion Marina in Staten Island, NY, after their trip up the New Jersey coast. As it happened, the couple decided to stay at the marina for a few days. Mike, their son, was expected to arrive in four days, and it made sense to wait for him at the marina, which is close to the airport. The weather also got very hot, and the couple wanted to enjoy the boat’s air conditioning during the heat of the day.</p>
<p>The friendly people who kept their boats at the marina provided a lot of great local information, which Sidonia came to think of as their very own concierge service. So, they had no reason to just sit in the boat. They took advantage of their time in Staten Island to explore and enjoy local cuisine, which turned out to have a major Italian influence.</p>
<p>“We rode our scooters to a hardware store to buy a padlock and chain for the scooters. It was like stepping into the past. The store was tiny, just three aisles, the shelves were crammed, the floor had a few pieces of ancient linoleum still stuck to the boards and it had that wonderful, nostalgic smell. I’m not sure what it was, but it sure doesn’t smell like that in Home Depot.</p>
<p>“We then went into Frank & Sal’s grocery store which our ‘concierge’ at the dock had told us about. It was also a small store with only four aisles. One entire aisle was dedicated to pasta on both sides.</p>
<p>There was a real meat counter where the butcher was chopping up steaks. We felt like we were in a foreign country because everyone, customers as well as employees, spoke Italian. They have an on-site bakery and there were some delicious looking pastries in the little glass case. Couldn’t resist some of those.</p>
<p><img title="frank and sals" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/frank-and-sal-grocery.jpg?cb=DC8C28C1-D752-7CE6-D60345238D1C7086" alt="frank and sals" width="800" height="490" /></p>
<p>“For lunch, we went to Fiore di Mare which is close to our marina. We had appetizers of shrimp cocktail and octopus with cannelloni beans and sauce. When we’ve had octopus in the past, it came all chopped up in little pieces. This was the thick tip of a leg about six inches long. It was delicious and tender. All the help spoke Italian.</p>
<p>“We then closed ourselves into the air-conditioned boat for the afternoon and watched the thermometer rise to 98 degrees."</p>
<p>It is always a treat when there is no schedule, or when some event keeps you from pressing on regardless. For some, it may be a broken lift bridge blocking safe transit, for others it may be some mechanical problem.</p>
<p>Last Item had no issues, just waiting for their son to join them, and the couple spent their days riding their scooters to various restaurants and stores and went back to Frank & Sal’s market several more times for a few Italian treats.</p>
<p>“Another lazy day. We rode our scooters a couple of blocks down to the the third restaurant down the street and had a pretty good pasta lunch. It was mostly seafood/pasta dishes.</p>
<p>“Later in the afternoon, we moved the boat to fuel up and then came back to our slip. At 5:00 pm, it started to rain again but no thunder and lightning.</p>
<p>“The next morning, we enjoyed a late breakfast at Andrew’s Diner and then picked up a few more items from Frank & Sal’s grocery. We packed the scooters away, filled up with water and made ready to leave first thing the next morning. Mike had texted that his flight was an hour and a half late taking off. He was originally scheduled to arrive at 5:18 pm.</p>
<p>“Mike arrived at the boat a little after 8:30.</p>
<p>“The next morning, Saturday, June 4th, we said goodbye to our nice neighbors and took off at 7:45 am. Within an hour, I climbed into the dinghy in New York Harbor and took photos of Last Item with the Statue of Liberty in the background. We then had Mike take photos of us with a bottle of champagne to christen Last Item. The harbor was much calmer than when I took photos of Shearwater here 12 years ago but there were swells which made it difficult to balance on the bow of the dinghy for the photo op.</p>
<p>“Following the picture taking, we took a side jaunt up the East River to give Mike a good look at the Brooklyn Bridge and the wonderful NYC skyscrapers. It was also our first time seeing the new World Trade Center building, which is quite beautiful."</p>
<p><img title="the brooklyn bridge by boat" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/brooklyn-bridge.jpg?cb=DC8C28BD-9BD5-92AF-0191C6EB165284E6" alt="the brooklyn bridge by boat" width="800" height="508" /></p>
<p>From New York City, <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">the Great Loop</a> goes north up the Hudson River some 155 statute miles to Waterford, NY, where one turns left into the Erie Canal. Originating in the Adirondack Mountains, the Hudson River is rich in history, beginning with the Native American communities of the Mohican and Lenape nations. Then came European explorers and settlers, and America began created its own history, with landmarks of its own.</p>
<p>For people from the Pacific Northwest, such as the St. Germaines, this side of the country is so different, with much to see that represent old and new chapters in the history of America.</p>
<p>“In the Hudson River, we passed the fascinating Pier 51 Hudson River floating island, ‘Little Island.’ The supports for the park form a resemblance to lily pads.</p>
<p>“Farther on we passed the famous prison, Sing Sing Correctional Facility in Ossining. We went close to shore for a better photo. While I took photos, Mike looked through the binoculars and saw a guard in one of the towers looking back at us. We didn’t stay long.</p>
<p>“Three hours later, we reached Safe Harbor Marina in Haverstraw, NY about 40 miles up the river from NYC."</p>
<p>Sidonia and Fred wanted very much to explore the Lyndhurst Castle in Tarrytown NY on the other side of the river. This mansion and grounds are one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the country.</p>
<p><img title="home of william paulding" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/home-of-william-paulding.jpg?cb=DC8C28C6-9FCD-4341-AA3B9FEA5606C27E" alt="home of william paulding" width="800" height="493" /></p>
<p>One problem they would now encounter as they got away from major cities is the spotty availability of transportation options, such as Uber. They were able to get an Uber driver to take them the half hour drive across the river to Tarrytown. They found the mansion and grounds impressive but not up to the level of other golden era mansions they have seen in their travels.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, they were not successful arranging an Uber ride for the 18-mile trip to the U.S. Military Academy at West Point. They had scheduled and pre-paid for the tour, but there was no way to get there. Such is the life of cruisers who sometimes miss the boat.</p>
<p>“The next morning, we tried to figure out a way to get to West Point, but with Uber being uncertain, and our need to be out of the marina by noon, we just couldn’t make it work. We were very disappointed to not be able to take the tour but did eventually get a good view of West Point from the river.</p>
<p><img title="West Point by boat" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/west-point.jpg?cb=DC8C28D6-B696-63EB-2D15B69FDA029338" alt="West Point by boat" width="800" height="443" /></p>
<p>“Instead, we walked about a half mile to the lovely Haverstraw Bay Park. They have a memorial there to honor their local fallen heroes from the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. They also have a twisted beam from one of the World Trade Center towers. Nearby is a piece of concrete from the Pentagon with a plaque that states that every September 11th at 8:46 am, the shadow from the twisted beam falls across that piece of concrete. And the concrete is surrounded by earth brought in from Shanksville, PA where Flight 93 went down.</p>
<p>“I placed my hand on the beam for at least a minute until the emotion became too heavy.”</p>
<p><img title="beam from world trade center" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/beam-from-world-trade-center.jpg?cb=DD681D5F-AA5F-53E4-3C2F907F931A7B63" alt="beam from world trade center" width="800" height="579" /></p>
<p>At this point the Hudson River begins to change, with long stretches of tree-lined shoreline, no homes at the water’s edge, and it became narrower than the wide-open water by New York City.</p>
<p>They saw very little boat traffic, although they did pass a few Loopers, all flying the <a href="https://www.greatloop.org/" target="_blank">AGLCA</a> burgee, an identifier that creates instant camaraderie whenever two burgees meet.</p>
<p>They traveled another 55 miles from Haverstraw to Kingston, where they got a slip at the City Marina. They found the slips weren’t in very good condition, nor were they quite long enough for the 40-foot Nimbus Coupe.</p>
<p>“There is another marina close by, in about the same condition, that is only $2.00/ft. and we’re paying $3.20/ft. We walked a short block to the historic waterfront section of town with its short row of charming old brick buildings. We enjoyed a late but good lunch at Ship to Shore Bistro.”</p>
<p>Kingston was founded in 1652, an early European settlement. Unlike many of the nearly empty towns they will pass in the coming weeks, Kingston is vibrant, with several historic districts. One of the joys of the Great Loop is seeing the living history of our country, and Kingston is a good example. It was the state capital of New York in 1777, but it was burned by the British after the Battle of Saratoga.</p>
<p>Today, its Stockage District is well known for upscale dining, shopping, art galleries, and nightlife.</p>
<p>“The Ole Savannah Southern Table & Bar was recommended by a nice couple we met in Haverstraw. Southern fried chicken sounded good, so we dumped the dinghy and putted down Roundout Creek to the restaurant. It was walkable but we had done enough walking.</p>
<p>“Halfway back to the boat, after a nice dinner of crispy fried chicken and corn on the cob, our outboard motor quit. After our previous problems with it we feared we were going to have ongoing outboard issues. However, Fred checked the fuel tank and we had run out of gas. He had filled it in Annapolis, and we’d barely used it since. Fred figured that the technician who had been checking out our motor must have run it for a very long time.</p>
<p>“Mike was in the middle seat of the dinghy, so we elected him to row us back to our <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a>."</p>
<p>The couple were now settling into a routine, and it was working out for them. One of my pet peeves about trips like the Great Loop is how easily one can develop a mindset similar to a boat delivery: Boat. Stop. Eat. Sleep. Repeat. We can all become infected with it when we go cruising, especially a long trip like the Great Loop.</p>
<p>That is one reason I like the idea that a boat capable of faster cruising speeds means one is not forced into long days of slow travel. In the case of the <a href="../../../../new-yachts-for-sale/Nimbus-405-Coupe">Nimbus 405 Coupe</a>, this couple can make the 50-70 miles of a day’s run in a few hours, leaving a lot more time to explore, relax, see the sights. And with no specific schedule to follow, it is a very relaxing way to go cruising.</p>
<p>“I got up the next morning, Tuesday, June 7th at 6:30 and walked over to the historic waterfront part of Kingston to take a photo of the old buildings. Then we left the dock at 8:05.</p>
<p>“The Hudson River was now getting narrower with lower banks. It was very windy but luckily the wind was with us, so we had a smooth ride. We fueled up at Shady Harbor Marina, $6.99/gal. Yikes!</p>
<p>“We passed Albany and Troy but had no desire to stop at either city. At Troy, we entered our very first lock of the trip. We had to wait about 20 minutes for the lock to open. The way you secure to the lock walls is so different from our experience with the Hiram Chittenden locks in Seattle.</p>
<p><img title="lock at erie canal" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/lock-1-of-erie-canal.jpg?cb=DC8C28CE-A09C-5F19-DADD279266D3DBE6" alt="lock at erie canal" width="800" height="564" /></p>
<p>“Here there are indentations in the lock wall about every 75 feet with a vertically running pipe inside. You loop a line around the pipe and hold on. The line slides up with you as the boat go up. We were the only boat in the lock.</p>
<p>“We learned right away that we needed more fenders than the three round fenders we put out. We quickly added three regular docking fenders as well.</p>
<p>“We also found that the boarding ladder attached to our swim platform on the Nimbus is not well placed as twice it bumped the lock wall as the stern swings inward.”</p>
<p>From Troy, it is only a couple of miles to the town of Waterford, and the junction of the Erie and Champlain Canals. It’s quite humorous to reach the edge of town where there is a sign to greet you.</p>
<p>Arrow pointing to the right for those going to the Champlain Canal. Arrow pointing left to enter the Erie Canal.</p>
<p>Waterford’s claim to fame is that it has the highest set of lift locks in the world, which is quite impressive.</p>
<p>Last Item tied up along the 1,000 feet of floating docks. There is a Waterford Harbor Visitor Center, and several restaurants and other businesses a short walk away. The visitor center has two webcams to follow the boats coming and going. (Harbor Visitors Center - Town of Waterford, NY)</p>
<p><img title="waterford webcam" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/waterford-webcam.jpg?cb=DC8C28D2-0F64-6FC2-27722174791B1CF1" alt="waterford webcam" width="800" height="510" /></p>
<p>It is from here one starts the Erie Canal portion of the Great Loop.</p>
<p>Sit back and enjoy. The canal journey is about to begin.</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">On To Rome!</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>Several readers asked about how they carry two electric bikes on the sleek Nimbus. Fred told us this:</em></p>
<p>“The handlebars fold down for one. I also remove the seat and the front tire to make them more compact. They then store in 1/2 of what is available in the lazarette. They take up the whole half. Sidonia made bags for them with handles which helps a little getting them in and out.” (See below)</p>
<p><img title="bike storage on boat" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bikes-in-storage-locker.jpg?cb=DD681D63-E483-F3C7-9E4C2219D7229886" alt="bike storage on boat" width="800" height="533" /> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: This Post</p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
Nimbus Up The Hudson To Waterford |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
The Great Loop |
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The crew of 'Last Item' gets a taste of New York during their Great Loop cruise on the Nimbus 405. |
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2022-06-09 00:00:00.0 |
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https://www.seattleyachts.com/news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford |
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The Great Loop |
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Bill Parlatore |
News |
2022-06-02 00:00:00.0 |
2022-06-02 00:00:00.0 |
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<p>Around the middle of May, Sidonia and Fred St. Germaine took their new Nimbus 405 Coupe, Last Item, out for a short shakedown cruise on Chesapeake Bay. Experienced cruisers with many sea miles under their belts, they knew what to bring aboard for their planned seven-month adventure, as mentioned in the <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">LET'S GO ON THE GREAT LOOP</a> article.</p>
<p>Because the <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus</a> is a quality, brand-new boat, very few things needed to be sorted out. Small things on the boat were fixed or adjusted so they had a high level of confidence in their new Swedish cruiser. <a href="../../../../yacht-broker/Greg-Gelmann">Greg Gelmann</a> of the Seattle Yachts <a href="../../../../yacht-sales-and-brokerage-in-annapolis-maryland">Annapolis office</a> oversees warranty work for the Annapolis office, and he made sure the boat was ready for the trip.</p>
<p>Sidonia sent us the following initial excerpts from her journal of the trip, which we will share as they work their way around <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">the Great Loop</a> to Florida.</p>
<p>“We poked our way out of Spa Creek and into Chesapeake Bay until we were clear of the 6-knot speed limit, and then Fred opened her up to 25 knots. He planned to get into deep water so he could drop the anchor and measure off twenty-foot lengths to mark with colored tie-wraps. But when we stopped in 90 feet of water, it was too rough for him to be out on deck working by the bow.</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: Spa Creek Bridge leaving Annapolis.</em>)</p>
<p><img title="spa creek bridge" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/spa-creek-bridge.jpg?cb=72D4FB23-BA10-A04E-2E5B71DA3D88CE8F" alt="spa creek bridge" width="800" height="465" /> </p>
<p>“So, we continued around the north end of Kent Island and headed south to Kent Narrows and Piney Narrows Marina. The marina has a very nice building, with roomy lounge, swimming pool, and tiny store. The waters where the marina is located is lined with covered docks housing hundreds of boats. There is a huge building (Kent Island Boatel) just across from where we are docked, full of small boats stacked four levels high. We’ve seen this type of storage in other places, but between what we’ve seen in Annapolis and now in Kent Island, I don’t think we’ve ever seen so many boats.</p>
<p>“We thought Seattle and the Pacific Northwest had a lot of boats, but it doesn’t even begin to compare to this area.”</p>
<p>The couple went over to the Kent Island Visitors’ Center to check out its small museum and walk around the nature trail. There isn’t much there, but it is always good to get off the boat and walk the neighborhood.</p>
<p>There are restaurants about a quarter mile across Kent Narrows from Piney Narrows Marina. Unfortunately, they soon found out not all is well with their new dinghy package. They dinghied from the marina to Red Eye’s Dock Bar, a popular local restaurant. After dinner, the outboard refused to start for the return trip to the boat. After some frustrating efforts to get it started, then trying to get a tow back to the marina, they even waved at a police launch, to no avail.</p>
<p>Fred eventually got the outboard running and they made it back to Last Item.</p>
<p>Such is cruising on a boat, even a new one.</p>
<p>When they returned to Annapolis after their short shakedown, they had a very small list of projects to take care of. Fred spent the most time getting the new outboard sorted out.</p>
<p>On May 25th, the couple left Annapolis to begin their Great Loop. They planned to run up Chesapeake Bay to the first destination: Harve de Grace, Maryland.</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: The mural of the Havre de Grace race track which closed over 40 years ago.</em>)</p>
<p><img title="mural of the havre de grace" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/havre-de-grace-race-track.jpg?cb=726A7A6B-E081-7732-DA3C75D658846F69" alt="mural of the havre de grace" width="800" height="517" /></p>
<p>“Chesapeake Bay was pretty choppy that morning, and as soon as we got up to cruising speed, we heard a long, miserable-sounding meow/howl from our cat, Ozzie. He jumped up from below and settled under my seat where he stayed the rest of the trip up the Bay. Thank goodness he doesn’t get seasick.</p>
<p>“We bumped along at 23 knots against the current, but the choppy bay smoothed out as we got farther north. All in all, our Nimbus rides comfortably despite the choppy waves banging against the hull.</p>
<p>“A little over two hours after we left Annapolis, we arrived in Havre de Grace on the Susquehanna River at the north end of Chesapeake Bay. We first topped off the fuel tanks (79.6 gal. @ 6.10 = $485) and moored at Tidewater Marina. The dockmaster was very nice and friendly, and helpful.</p>
<p>“Just outside the marina is a large, former cannery building covered in murals. There were even more murals beyond this building on a long wall. I talked with a man painting them and he said the building would become an art center for woodworkers and artists.”</p>
<p>The next morning, they noticed a decided starboard list on their new boat. They had assumed the fuel tanks were self-leveling, but it turned out the two tanks are not connected. To get the boat level, Fred had to put in more fuel.</p>
<p>Leaving the fuel dock with a level boat, they set a course to the entrance of the C&D Canal, 14 miles of ship canal that connects Chesapeake Bay with Delaware Bay, and is a vital transit point on the Loop, as well as ships coming and going to the Port of Baltimore.</p>
<p>“When we exited the C&D Canal on the Delaware side, we ran straight into an ugly chop as we turned south to head down Delaware Bay. Everything we’ve read said Delaware Bay can be rough, and it lived up to its reputation. Pretty soon we were punching through 3- and 4-foot waves. We slowed down to 17 knots to ease the motion, and then saw a large ship ahead of us. We pulled into the relatively flat wake of the Panamanian freighter ‘Francois’ for about two hours. We slowed to 14 knots to maintain our position behind the ship, but at that speed the Nimbus thankfully stayed on plane. It wasn’t particularly smooth, however, and we still had a fair amount of banging into the waves.</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: A lighthouse that sits at the entrace to Delaware Bay on a calmer afternoon.</em>)</p>
<p> <img title="lighthouse at delaware bay" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/delaware-lighthouse.jpg?cb=7401E139-D4D7-828D-75670ED794305C9F" alt="lighthouse at delaware bay" width="800" height="490" /></p>
<p>“We finally left the ship’s wake to point our bow toward the Cape May Canal.”</p>
<p>Once through the canal, they arranged a slip at the Canyon Club Resort Marina in Cape May, NJ. They called two other marinas first, but they were full, with many Loopers already in the area on their way north. Thankfully, she reports the Canyon Club marina gives a Loopers discount.</p>
<p>And they were not alone in the marina.</p>
<p>“The boat next to us is also doing the Loop. They are Scott & Michelle on ‘Dog On It,’ appropriately named as they have a Great Dane aboard. They gave us a hand with our lines and then we visited for a bit with them.</p>
<p>“The next morning, we helped them with their lines as they took off. Later in the morning, we took our scooters into town. As the electric scooters are also new, I was hesitant to ride mine up the dock as I’ve barely ridden it before. I rode around the parking lot of the marina a few times before we headed into the town of Cape May.</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: Cape May has some beautiful historic mansions.</em>)</p>
<p><img title="mansion in cape may" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/manion-in-cape-may.jpg?cb=726A7A6E-9081-8DCC-1011BD70AEACB6C3" alt="mansion in cape may" width="800" height="601" /></p>
<p>“We are very happy with our little bikes, they are serving us just as we’d hoped, as the town is a long walk from our marina. By the time we got back to the boat, I felt comfortable enough to ride down the dock to the boat without falling into the water.”</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: Sidonia and Fred St. Germaine stop by the Coast Guard station for a photo op</em>.)</p>
<p><img title="coast guard station in cape may" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/coast-guard-in-cape-may.jpg?cb=726A7A72-FCB4-1BDE-E0BF4453062DE676" alt="coast guard station in cape may" width="800" height="527" /></p>
<p>The couple had originally planned to transit New Jersey on the NJ ICW, but they heard there was a broken bridge and boats could not get through. So, they decided to go outside, as most trawlers must do.</p>
<p>“The Atlantic Ocean was as nice as it gets, with large, gentle swells on our beam. We had a comfortable ride.</p>
<p>“When I checked my NEBO (the popular voyage tracking system used by many Loopers), I saw several dozen Loopers in front of us. We passed every one of them at our 23-knot cruising speed.</p>
<p>“Running about a mile and a half off the New Jersey coast we could just make out hundreds of little dots on the beaches, people enjoying a beautiful Memorial Day weekend.”</p>
<p>They decided to stop in Barnegat Bay, after the 73nm run from Cape May. They found large breaking swells about 300 yards out from the entrance of the inlet, so they were particularly cautious coming in. While they safely anchored inside the bay in seven feet of water, the steady stream of small boat traffic made the anchorage uncomfortable.</p>
<p>From there, it was just about two hours before they saw the New York City skyline in the the distance. Rather than continue into the Hudson River, they chose to stop for the day at Mansion Marina in Great Kills Harbor in Staten Island, NY. It was a pleasant stop they had been to before.</p>
<p>“Whoever says New Yorkers aren’t friendly hasn’t met the ones we have. When we were here before on our big boat, we met only very nice and helpful people. This time was no exception. A fellow who keeps his boat at the marina helped us secure our lines, then gave us the full rundown of where things were, what restaurants were good, which ones had takeout and the location of the second-best bagel shop in all of Staten Island. It was real concierge service.</p>
<p>“The marina is far from a first class one. The dock is tilted, a power outlet near us didn’t work, and the boatyard looks messy. But it will do fine. We walked a couple of blocks down to the Atlantis Marina Cafe and enjoyed a delicious gyro sandwich.”</p>
<p>When Sidonia and Fred’s told me of their plans back in Annapolis, the only reservation they had made was at Liberty Landing Marina in Jersey City, across from NYC. The plan was to pick up their son, who would crew with them up the Hudson and through the Erie Canal.</p>
<p>After their first week on this adventure, it is safe to say the cruising speed of the Nimbus 405 Coupe makes daily runs of decent miles very manageable, while leaving plenty of time to get off the boat and explore the local scene, something they very much enjoy.</p>
<p>If this is any indication of how their Great Loop adventure will unfold, it seems this will be their routine. And many will agree it is much better than long days of slow travel.</p>
<p>See you next time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: <a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></p>
<p>Update #2: This Post.</p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Enjoy these other boating and cruising articles:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="../../../../news/how-big-of-a-boat-do-you-need-to-sail-around-the-world">How Big Of A Boat Do You Need To Sail Around The World?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/what-is-the-best-size-sailboat-to-live-on">What's The Best Size Sailboat To Live On?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/what-to-know-about-bringing-your-trawler-home">Bringing Your Trawler Home</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/how-important-is-fuel-economy">Your Boat's Fuel Economy</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/extend-your-sailing-life">Extend Your Sailing Life</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/yearly-engine-service-and-beyond">Yearly Engine Service And Beyond</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/sometimes-its-all-about-simplicity">Sometimes It's All About Simplicity</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-bucket-a-true-story">The Bucket: A True Story</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/essential-supplies-for-extended-cruising">Essential Supplies For Extended Cruising</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-exhausting-need-to-keep-up">The Exhausting Need To Keep Up With New Technology</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/have-a-backup-plan">Have A Backup Plan!</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/northern-marine-exhaust-systems-are-better-by-design">Northern Marine Exhaust Systems Are Better</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/cruising-boats-come-of-age">Cruising Boats Come Of Age</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/changing-rituals">Changing Rituals</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/did-wisdom-come-to-the-ancient-mariner">Did Wisdom Come To The Ancient Mariner?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/going-world-cruising-not-so-fast">Going World Cruising? Not So Fast</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/what-engines-are-in-your-boat">What Engines Are In Your Boat?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/letting-go-but-still-in-control">Letting Go But Still In Control</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/learning-to-handle-a-new-boat">Learning To Handle A New Boat</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/improving-the-user-experience">Improving The User Experience</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-paradigm-shift-in-cruising" target="_blank">A Paradigm Shift In Cruising</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/consider-buddy-boating">Consider Buddy Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-matter-of-staying-safe-while-boating">A Matter Of Staying Safe While Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/i-am-going-cruising-should-i-carry-a-gun">Should I Carry A Gun While Cruising?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-boaters-three-to-five-year-plan">A Boater's 3-to-5 Year Plan</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-alaskan-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Alaska</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-evolution-of-the-trawler-yacht">The Evolution Of The Trawler Yacht</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/getting-ready-for-the-great-loop">Getting Ready For The Great Loop</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-winning-great-loop-strategy">A Winning Great Loop Strategy</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/tips-for-cruising-south-or-preparing-for-the-great-loop">Tips For Cruising South</a></li>
</ul> |
Nimbus Begins The Great Loop |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
The Great Loop |
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The owners of the Nimbus 405 Coupe 'LAST ITEM' leave on their trip for the Great Loop. |
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2022-06-02 00:00:00.0 |
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https://www.seattleyachts.com/news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop |
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The Great Loop |
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2022-05-25 00:00:00.0 |
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<p>I will spend the next seven months following the adventures of Sidonia and Fred St. Germaine. The couple is doing <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">the Great Loop</a>, at least a large portion of it, and will share their travels with us. It should be entertaining and inspiring for those who dream of doing the Loop one day.</p>
<p><img title="Sidonia and Fred St. Germaine" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fred-and-sidonia.jpg?cb=DC9A655D-FE87-6F77-29F7FB6BFED7083D" alt="Sidonia and Fred St. Germaine" width="800" height="709" /></p>
<p>The couple keep their 62-foot custom trawler, Shearwater, in Anacortes, Washington. This is their third trawler named Shearwater, and she has already provided them with many adventures. They shipped her from Victoria, B.C. to Florida in 2010, and cruised the Bahamas for the winter. Then they enjoyed a leisurely cruise from Florida up to Maine and back.</p>
<p>The couple decided they wanted a boat specifically for the Great Loop, as Shearwater will stay in Anacortes. They purchased a new <a href="../../../../new-nimbus-boats-for-sale/">Nimbus Boats</a> 405 Coupe from Seattle Yachts, a well-equipped boat that is perfect for a couple and their cat on this waterway adventure.</p>
<p>The couple named the boat Last Item, as it is the last item on Sidonia’s bucket list. While the couple has already done a great deal of cruising, the attraction of the Great Loop is that it is something quite different.</p>
<p><img title="Nimbus 405 coupe owners" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/the-great-loop-boat.jpg?cb=DC9A6564-DD5B-FEC1-C98F8A5920BE02F0" alt="Nimbus 405 coupe owners" width="800" height="546" /></p>
<p>Sidonia said they are most excited to visit parts of this country they have yet to experience. Nashville, Michigan, the Hudson River, Trent-Severn Waterway, and the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway are all places they want to see.</p>
<p>The couple has already explored the East Coast on Shearwater, so they decided to tailor their Great Loop to just those sections they have not yet seen. They will leave Annapolis before the end of May and expect to reach Florida in about seven months. Then the plan is to sell the Nimbus Coupe once they arrive in Florida.</p>
<p>The <a href="../../../../new-yachts-for-sale/Nimbus-405-Coupe">Nimbus 405 Coupe</a> is the perfect choice, and the flagship model of the Nimbus line. It is a three-stateroom cruiser powered by twin Volvo D6-380 diesels, which give a cruising speed of 25 knots. With a draft of only 3.5 feet, and no flybridge, the form factor of lower vertical clearance and shallow draft will be appreciated when cruising the inland waterways. Last Item has both bow and stern thrusters for the ultimate in maneuverability.</p>
<p>The boat’s lines are sleek and modern. The salon has the traditional, open layout typical of Scandinavian design, and her large windows provide outstanding visibility which will be wonderful while cruising the waterways. It is a perfect two person cruiser, with cleats easily reached, including one just outside the helm door for line handling while transiting canal locks.</p>
<p>One interesting feature of the Nimbus is the company’s patented "Side-Walk" design, an asymmetrical deck layout that offers a wide side deck on the starboard side of the boat up to around the bow. This will be of great value transiting the many locks of the canals, while also providing more interior volume for greater comfort and livability.</p>
<p><img title="nimbus sidewalk design" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nimbus-side-walk-design.jpg?cb=DDB45FC0-B329-AAF8-417DB7EC9CBE96F3" alt="nimbus sidewalk design" width="800" height="413" /></p>
<p>In their first week or so on the boat, they went out on Chesapeake Bay to get settled on the boat, and Fred found her quiet and smooth running.</p>
<p>Sidonia, on the other hand, says she finds the boat more tender than she is used to, although she is comparing the motion to that of their much larger and heavier <a href="../../../../used-trawler-yachts-for-sale/">trawlers</a>. It will take getting used to. She said she is very relaxed on their 62-foot Shearwater, and has no anxiety whatsoever, as they have covered quite a few safe and comfortable miles aboard the custom trawler.</p>
<p>She went on to say they cruised on their previous DeFever 49, from Alaska down to Mexico, Costa Rica, Panama, Columbia, to Venezuela, then through the Panama Canal to explore the Caribbean. She was extremely confident and relaxed on that boat, even when the boat rolled over on her side in rough seas, far enough over that Fred was tossed out of his bunk and slid across the cabin. Despite this freak event, Sidonia remained totally relaxed, with full confidence in the boat.</p>
<p>Last Item will no doubt earn Sidonia’s trust in the coming months.</p>
<p>Unlike new boat owners who take on the Great Loop, Sidonia and Fred’s many years of cruising together means they are not overstocking the boat with provisions and spares, as so many do. They know they are not cruising up the Amazon, but rather the inland waterways of the U.S. and Canada. But as veteran cruisers, they have his and her binoculars, spare props, fuel filter elements, and impellers.</p>
<p>They plan to pick up their son in Liberty Landing Marina in Jersey City, New Jersey. He will be crew for a couple of weeks as they head up the Hudson River and transit the Erie Canal. He will leave them near Rochester, New York. That is about the only set schedule the couple have planned, and the only reservation they’ve made so far is Liberty Landing Marina. The rest will unfold each day as it will. This is cruising at its best.</p>
<p>Sidonia is going to send me notes and images of their travels, and I plan to report regularly as they make their way around the Loop. Perhaps I might even drive out to meet them at some point. My intention is to offer a glimpse of what makes this trip so popular, and why it is on many people’s bucket list.</p>
<p>It is all about the boats, the people, the destinations, and the lifestyle.</p>
<p>It should be a grand adventure.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Here are links to the LAST ITEM's previous Great Loop updates</span>:</p>
<p>Update #1: This Post.</p>
<p>Update #2: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-begins-the-great-loop">"Last Item" Begins The Great Loop</a></p>
<p>Update #3: <a href="../../../../news/nimbus-up-the-hudson-to-waterford">Up The Hudson To Waterford</a></p>
<p>Update #4: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-on-to-rome">Last Item Heads To Rome</a></p>
<p>Update #5: <a href="../../../../news/big-water-ahead-as-last-item-heads-to-oswego">Big Water Ahead As LAST ITEM Heads to Oswego</a></p>
<p>Update #6: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-a-taste-of-the-thousand-islands">A Taste Of The Thousand Islands</a></p>
<p>Update #7: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Into The Trent-Severn Waterway</a></p>
<p>Update #8: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-deeper-into-the-trent-severn-waterway">Deeper Into The Trent-Severn</a></p>
<p>Update #9: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-georgian-bay">Georgian Bay</a></p>
<p>Update #10: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-north-channel">The North Channel</a></p>
<p>Update #11: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-into-lake-michigan">Into Lake Michigan</a></p>
<p>Update #12: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-gunkholing-down-the-wisconsin-coast">Gunkholing Down The Wisconsin Coast</a></p>
<p>Update #13: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-visiting-kenosha">Visiting Kenosha</a></p>
<p>Update #14: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-great-loop-trip-continues-into-illinois">Great Loop Trip Continues Into Illinois</a></p>
<p>Update #15: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-exploring-the-heartland">Exploring The Heartland</a></p>
<p>Update #16: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-in-the-middle-of-the-country">Heading Into Tennessee</a></p>
<p>Update #17: <a href="../../../../news/last-item-cruising-in-the-tenn-tom">Cruising In The Tenn-Tom</a></p> |
Let’s Go on The Great Loop! |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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<p>I follow the daily posts of the AGLCA, as well as social media forums about cruising, <a href="../../../../used-trawler-yachts-for-sale/">trawlers</a>, and the Great Loop. I find it exciting to see people new to cruising go through those series of firsts that veteran cruisers have long since forgotten. What do we need to do/buy/install before we take off? As launch day gets more real each passing week, whimsical planning morphs into serious list making and boat projects that instill confidence in boat and crew.</p>
<p>As we begin this new year, it is refreshing to see people announce their plans to begin their Loop in April or May, depending on where they live. If one is close enough to jump onto the Loop in home waters, the adventure begins and ends at your front door. So, at any time during the season, Loopers enter the journey around North America at different points, choosing which variations they find most appealing. That is what make organizations like the AGLCA so useful and valuable to new cruisers. And what people don’t realize is that many of these aspiring Loopers are new to traveling on a boat.</p>
<p>In fact, one of my broker friends says he finds a surprising number of couples shopping for a Loop-capable boat aren’t yet boaters. It is the magic allure of the Great Loop that captivates them. These people want to buy a boat, do the Loop, then move on to other items on their Bucket List. They consider themselves traveling rather than cruising if you know what I mean. RV, boat, whatever. It is a travel experience they seek.</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: The new <a href="../../../../new-yachts-for-sale/Legacy-12">Legacy 12</a> has been described as a perfect boat for The Great Loop</em>.)</p>
<p><img title="perfect boat for The Great Loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/perfect-boat-for-the-great-loop.jpg?cb=48E407A1-E582-A12F-9489F5FD2F61EF22" alt="perfect boat for The Great Loop" width="800" height="426" /></p>
<p>According to my friend, many of these couples are looking for a Chevy to do the Loop, not a Cadillac. The boat needs to be affordable, have low maintenance requirements, and they have no desire for varnished brightwork. Once they complete their adventure, they plan to sell the boat for hopefully close to the initial price, the difference being the cost of the adventure. It is a common them that has been repeated over and over. Some of these boats are resold several times, and they repeat going around the Loop with different owners, supplying fun and excitement with minimal systems or complex machinery. It is a winning formula for sure.</p>
<p>I always suspect that, for at least some of these travelers, what may start as the one-time dream of a lifetime, evolves into a love of cruising with lasting friendships that develop into future years of wintering in the Islands and extended local cruising.</p>
<p>But now we are in the grip of winter, where the focus is on getting the boat ready. Collecting suggested reading material, charts and guides, and necessary spares, are at the top of the priority list. All of this is important.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Related: <a href="../../../../news/do-you-keep-a-logbook-while-cruising">Keep A Logbook While Cruising</a></strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Most cruising guides offer basic information regarding traveling on our waterways. Along the Great Loop, especially, one will find every type of waterway, from open bays where one might be surrounded by vessels of every type and size, to narrow channels where single file rules of the road are critical to maintain safe passage for all boats.</p>
<p>For new boaters, it is vital to study the rules of the road, as it will be quite stressful when boats start calling you or blasting horns at you and you don’t know what to do. While the rules cover right of way and many other important elements, I want to stress particular attention to the rules regarding passing or being passed on the waterways.</p>
<p><img title="boats passing each other" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/boats-passing-each-other.jpg?cb=499E72EA-91FD-CC9E-2841653E9540ED10" alt="boats passing each other" width="800" height="448" /> </p>
<p>When transiting restricted waters, such as in a channel, it is standard practice to hail a slower boat in front of you, requesting a slow pass on one side or the other. On large, stabilized motor vessels and trawlers, the other skipper will often acknowledge your call and tell you to go by at your normal speed, as the boat’s stabilization will minimize any roll they might otherwise experience due to your passing wake.</p>
<p>One frustrating problem occurs when you approach another boat and find the crew has pulled the dinghy onto the swim platform, often using Weaver Dinghy Snaps, which then covers the name of the vessel and hailing port. Unless you both have AIS, you can’t hail the boat by name. Which is why enlightened owners paint the trawler's name on the bottom of the dinghy. If this is your situation, get with the program and put the name on your dinghy!</p>
<p>The East Coast portion of the Loop involves traveling many miles on the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) from Florida to Virginia, and there is another common scenario you will encounter. Approaching another boat in a narrow waterway, such as in the many ranges one finds in the Low Country, there may not be room to safely go around a slower vessel. It may be a <a href="../../../../used-sailboats-for-sale/">sailboat</a> chugging along at 5 knots in the middle of the channel. For whatever reason, a lot of sailors don’t maintain a working VHF radio in their cockpit, and it is frustrating.</p>
<p>This is where you’ll need a good horn to both alert the other vessel and signal your intentions. When you hit the horn button, it will get his or her attention, and you can simply point that you want to pass them on your starboard side. The boat may steer to the right a bit, and you can pass the sailboat without drama.</p>
<p>Having a good horn is important, and make sure it works. In short:</p>
<ul>
<li>One Short Blast, one Toot, means you intend to turn right and pass them on your port side. This applies to both overtaking a boat ahead of you, or when a boat is coming at you from the opposite direction.</li>
<li>Two Short Blasts, two Toots, means you intend to turn left and pass them on your starboard side. This is my normal procedure when overtaking a slower boat in front of me. But the conditions around you will dictate which you choose.</li>
</ul>
<p>The vessel you signal should acknowledge your blasts with the same one or two toots. If they respond with five blasts, it means there is danger ahead or they do not want you to pass for some other reason. It could be they see something up ahead that you can't yet see, such as a commercial tug and tow, or a dredging operation. Fall in line behind the other vessel until it is safe to pass.</p>
<p>Learn the horn’s proper use before beginning the Great Loop but remember you will be sharing the waterways with commercial traffic, who often prefer the VHF to communicate.</p>
<p><img title="barge on the great loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/barge-on-great-loop.jpg?cb=4A533747-0B00-B74F-51C4A354177EF60E" alt="barge on the great loop" width="800" height="470" /> </p>
<p>One must also be aware of one’s wake when passing, and it is common courtesy to slow down when you pass another vessel, especially if you are driving a boat that throws a big bow wave, such as a classic <a href="../../../../used-yachts-for-sale/grand-banks-yachts">Grand Banks</a> running above displacement speeds.<br /> <br />Another important piece of information that you may not find in many cruising guides is the specific definition of bridge clearance. What exactly does a stated bridge clearance mean? When a bridge clearance height is listed in a cruising guide or on a sign at the bridge, is that stated measurement for the lowest point of the span (such as the outer ends of the span for opening bridges), or the middle of the span, which is typically higher? And in waters where there is significant tidal flow, how does water level change the clearance?</p>
<p>Even experienced boaters are not always clear about bridge clearance. This is understandable if one does their boating in Chesapeake Bay, the Puget Sound, or other open waterways where there aren’t a lot of highway or railroad bridges.</p>
<p>For any of this to be useful, especially for the Great Loop, one must know for certain what is the boat’s own air draft, down to the inch. Estimating one’s height above water is not sufficient, you need to know absolutely, and how much additional clearance you gain if you lower an arch, antennas, or radar mast. You will be much less stressed if you know these precise clearances. Make labels of these numbers and put them by the helm.</p>
<p>(<em>Seen below: Bridges in the Illinois River Valley.</em>)</p>
<p><img title="bridges on illinois river great loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bridge-on-great-loop-illinois-river.jpg?cb=4A85C85F-E712-C057-4C221BF5BC438696" alt="bridges on illinois river great loop" width="800" height="439" /> </p>
<p>The Coast Guard regulations require that the minimum clearance be shown, which is the clearance at the sides of the navigable area. Many bridge owners add a sign “Additional clearance x feet at center.”</p>
<p>This is not required but helps reduce the number of unnecessary openings.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, waterways that are less frequented may be incorrectly marked, perhaps with a sign “Clearance at center” or sometimes no sign at all. When there is a discrepancy between what is listed on the bridge and what is found in the cruising guide, contact the bridge operator to verify.</p>
<p><img title="bridge clearance for boat" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bridge-clearance-for-boat.jpg?cb=4AD51A46-96CE-74FD-5F80668E757B1E5B" alt="bridge clearance for boat" width="800" height="545" /></p>
<p>(Speaking of cruising guides, on one trip up the ICW, we purposely tracked our progress using three separate cruising guides, all the latest editions. Surprisingly, they were rarely in agreement when it came to some information. Keeping cruising guides current must be a real challenge.)</p>
<p>Another thing to do when preparing for the Loop (or any adventure where you will be away from home for months) is to get yourself checked out, which can get overlooked in the chaos of getting ready.</p>
<p>Get yourself, crew, and pets in to see your doctor, dentist, vet, and any specialist you work with. The following story always reminds me of how we often take things for granted and then life throws us a curveball while we’re constantly on the move.</p>
<p>A couple I know spent years adventuring on their ocean-crossing trawler, cruising the east coast of Central America, and extensively in South America. An avid film maker, the husband worked on documentaries of indigenous cultures, and the boat was their <a href="../../../../used-cruising-yachts-for-sale/">cruising boat</a>, home, and film lab.</p>
<p>After several years in South America, they headed back north, and spent a month exploring Maine before cruising down through New England, on their way to Florida for the winter. They had not been back to Coeur d’Alene in quite a while, so had missed their regular dental and medical checkups.</p>
<p>As Dave later told of their travels in Maine and New England, he said he developed a mild sore throat, and had some difficulty swallowing. Over-the-counter lozenges and cough medicines didn’t help. As they worked their way down the coast, they visited several walk-in clinics when they stopped for a few days. The local doctors would look him over, then prescribe throat medicines for a strep throat. But his throat never seemed to improve. Heading westward along the coast of Connecticut, they again sought local treatment, but given the one-time nature of a walk-in clinic, and with no medical records or history, the inevitable treatment was more of the same.</p>
<p>By the time they passed New Jersey, they became concerned it was more than a simple strep infection. So, they went straight to Baltimore, where they made an appointment to see a doctor at Johns Hopkins Medical Center, a world-class medical facility second to none.</p>
<p>It was determined that Dave was in the early stage of Esophageal cancer and needed immediate treatment. Thankfully, they caught it soon enough to be treated, and they stayed in Baltimore and made Dave’s recovery their top priority. By the time I visited the couple months later in Florida, Dave had almost fully recovered. They had dodged a bullet for sure.</p>
<p>They told me they had let their cruising agenda take over their priorities and keeping the boat in shape and fully operational had been more important than taking care of themselves. The wild and primitive conditions they experienced in South America had no doubt made them let their guard down, and they simply got used to discomfort, aches and pains, and less-than-ideal living conditions. They just assumed that whatever happened, it would be fine. Thankfully, they were in a country with medical facilities, not many miles up the remote Amazon.</p>
<p>While neither of them directly said it, I sensed it was somewhat of a walkup call about life, balance, and perspective.</p>
<p>For those of you embarking on your Great Loop adventure this spring, I wish you the best. Have a fabulous time, stay safe, and I hope to meet some of you along the way.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">More Articles About The Great Loop:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop">The Great Loop</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/tips-for-cruising-south-or-preparing-for-the-great-loop">Preparing For The Great Loop</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/taking-on-the-great-loop">Taking On The Great Loop</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-winning-great-loop-strategy">A Winning Great Loop Strategy</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Enjoy these other boating and cruising articles:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="../../../../news/sometimes-its-all-about-simplicity">Sometimes It's All About Simplicity</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-bucket-a-true-story">The Bucket: A True Story</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/essential-supplies-for-extended-cruising">Essential Supplies For Extended Cruising</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-exhausting-need-to-keep-up">The Exhausting Need To Keep Up With New Technology</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/have-a-backup-plan">Have A Backup Plan!</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/northern-marine-exhaust-systems-are-better-by-design">Northern Marine Exhaust Systems Are Better</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/cruising-boats-come-of-age">Cruising Boats Come Of Age</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/changing-rituals">Changing Rituals</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/did-wisdom-come-to-the-ancient-mariner">Did Wisdom Come To The Ancient Mariner?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/going-world-cruising-not-so-fast">Going World Cruising? Not So Fast</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/what-engines-are-in-your-boat">What Engines Are In Your Boat?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/letting-go-but-still-in-control">Letting Go But Still In Control</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/learning-to-handle-a-new-boat">Learning To Handle A New Boat</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/improving-the-user-experience">Improving The User Experience</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-paradigm-shift-in-cruising" target="_blank">A Paradigm Shift In Cruising</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/consider-buddy-boating">Consider Buddy Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-matter-of-staying-safe-while-boating">A Matter Of Staying Safe While Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/i-am-going-cruising-should-i-carry-a-gun">Should I Carry A Gun While Cruising?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-boaters-three-to-five-year-plan">A Boater's 3-to-5 Year Plan</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/boat-tools-how-do-you-keep-yours">Boat Tools: A 4-Part Series</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/catching-up-with-white-pearl">Catching Up With White Pearl</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-bahamas-caribbean-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Bahamas</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-alaskan-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Alaska</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-evolution-of-the-trawler-yacht">The Evolution Of The Trawler Yacht</a></li>
</ul> |
Getting Ready For The Great Loop |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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Here are several tips to help you prepare before you launch your boat on your Great Loop trip. |
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<p>Since they cancelled the Annapolis boat shows, the fall migration has spread out, with cruisers putting together travel itineraries not tied to show schedules. Tradition has it that cruisers head south right after the shows, but this year folks are taking their time and leaving later than normal. The forums and Facebook groups are full of couples trying to work it all out. It is especially interesting to read the questions and perspectives from couples going on their first ICW trip south. (Also read: <a href="../../../../news/are-you-going-south-on-the-icw-in-2020" target="_blank">Are You Going South On The ICW This Winter?</a>)</p>
<p>For some, it is their first “real” boat, and they seemed overwhelmed by everything they don’t know, unanswered questions that lurk around every corner. Is it really okay to flush toilet paper in the head, do they have enough “rope” on the boat for all the line-handling activities they will encounter, and which are the best guidebooks to take them safely on their journey? It is a big adventure, no question, and I trust their naïve enthusiasm overcomes their anxiety and fear of the unknown. I admit to being a bit jealous at the glorious discoveries that await them. We’ve all been there, haven’t we!?!</p>
<p>At the end of the day, however, it is just great to be able to head south if one can manage it. Who would not prefer to bask in the sun and enjoy the warmth of the Florida Keys instead of the cold, snow, and ice of another New England winter?</p>
<p>It’s also pretty accurate to say that boats are better used than hauled, winterized, and stored, as stuff breaks or just stops working when it sits. I don’t know why exactly, but that is the way it is.<br />For this and other reasons, spending a winter south of the North Carolina border generally means warmer weather, outdoor living, and for those who have the time, enjoying life as if on one long vacation.</p>
<p>And trust me, it is addicting.</p>
<p>Preparing one’s boat for the thousand-mile trip down the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) is not anywhere near the ordeal of preparing for an ocean crossing. You are never out of sight of land, which is the point of the ICW. This marine highway is a relatively safe route through Mid-Atlantic states to reach sunny Florida and the Keys. The trip offers a wonderful cruising experience, if you let it be one, always something new, stopping every night to anchor in a remote creek or tie up at a town dock or marina, with local food and fuel nearby.</p>
<p>I offer these tips for preparing your boat for the trek south, which not surprisingly also fits anyone planning <a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop" target="_blank">the Great Loop</a> in 2021, or next year’s summer cruising in the Great Lakes, New England, or the Pacific Northwest. They are helpful ways to enjoy extended cruising when you want to get away and be self-sufficient…and safe. </p>
<p><em>(Seen below: There's nothing better than waiting out the winter by socializing with friends at your marina in the Florida Keys.)</em></p>
<p><img title="boats are marine in the florida keys" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/socializing-in-the-keys-during-winter.jpg?cb=5A9101C8-BDB7-E8FB-5E17596FFFA4F37F" alt="boats are marine in the florida keys" width="800" height="542" /></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Tighten Everything That Moves</strong></span></p>
<p>Sometimes the boat speaks to you. One morning as we cruised quietly along, enjoying the serene view of tall grasses along Georgia’s Low Country over coffee, we heard the sound of a bolt bouncing off fiberglass. It then settled onto the flybridge settee. Laurene and I exchanged glances…where did that come from? A quick inspection revealed it was from one of the Bimini fittings, so over the next half-hour I walked around the flybridge tightening all the hardware. I never thought to check them.</p>
<p>Performing this kind of maintenance before a trip gives you a chance to reacquaint yourself with your boat, which is helpful if you have not spent a lot of recent time aboard. Its goal is to help avoid issues during the trip by eliminating them before they surface.</p>
<p>Spend time going over terminal blocks and wire connections to make sure all wiring is tight and secure. A loose connection is the primary cause of failures of electrical and electronic equipment.<br />Go over pump connections, battery terminals, ground wires, alternator wiring, windlass and electric winch connections, and all the motors you have on the boat. You will kick yourself when you discover a faulty, bothersome windshield wiper is nothing more than someone bumped a wire bundle, and the push-on connection came loose.</p>
<p>Imagine vibration from running engines, pumps, or compressors. Or accidental bumps from crew moving around an engine space. As long as you can access all of the electrical connections in your boat, and make sure everything is tight at the beginning of a major trip, this is the best insurance you can provide yourself and your family. No matter if it is the trip south on the ICW, the Great Loop, or any number of longer cruises where you just want things to work. Cruising has its own set of variables that you can’t control, so deal with those you can.</p>
<p>And best of all, you just need a screwdriver or two, perhaps a wrench. Just you and a couple of tools.</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: Remember to tighten all of the bolts around any hatches on your boat before setting off on a cruise.) </em></p>
<p><img title="tighten bolts around your boat hatches" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/hatches-on-boat.jpg?cb=5B028BA8-B925-1F45-4B5BFBC7DE44D6A3" alt="tighten bolts around your boat hatches" width="800" height="521" /></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Bring Spares for All Single Points of Failure</strong></span></p>
<p>We harped on this for years at seminars and workshops for trawler owners around the country, and it remains the best advice one can offer the would-be cruiser. Go over your boat and identify every piece of equipment that contains a single point of failure. This means any critical piece of equipment, where, if it stops working, it takes out the rest of the system. A water pump, for example. Within a week of one trip, our freshwater pump quit. The pump was the only source of pressure water on that boat. But I had a spare pump aboard and was able to remove and swap the pumps that evening.</p>
<p>The same goes for the fuel delivery system. Relying on just one fuel filter is asking for trouble. Any water or dirt in the fuel will eventually clog the filter and shut down the engine. That is why smart cruisers—sail and power—have switchable fuel filters so one simply turns a lever and fuel is redirected to a second, fresh filter element.</p>
<p>Of course, if we were preparing to go offshore this list would grow exponentially. Critical systems, such as the boat’s autopilot and hydraulic steering, would include spare motors, control boxes, or, in some cases, completely redundant systems. But along the ICW, or on the Great Loop, extensive preparations and redundancy is less critical and needn’t drain your bank account. You can have most anything fixed along our country’s waterways.</p>
<p>Perform a load test on your boat’s batteries and replace them if they won’t be good for the duration. When in doubt, replace them.</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: Fuel filters are an excellent spare part to have on a boat starting out on a longer cruise.)</em></p>
<p><img title="Racor fuel filter elements" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/fuel-filters.jpg?cb=92988E3F-90EA-D271-941A54265EC5B855" alt="Racor fuel filter elements" width="800" height="713" /> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Equip Your Boat and Crew with the Proper Tools</strong></span></p>
<p>I highly recommend separate pairs of binoculars for each crew member, clearly labeled. It gets old sharing binoculars, constantly readjusting them for individual preferences and settings. If all crew, including children, has his/her own pair, it adds to the safety of the boat. If someone sees something in the water, for instance, others can help identify whether it is a partially submerged log or the head of a waiting gator.</p>
<p>Make sure you have a damn good horn (as in LOUD), as you will use it. If traveling on a faster powerboat, there will be many times you will have a situation, especially in a narrow stretch of waterway, where you approach a slower boat, <a href="../../../../used-sailboats-for-sale/" target="_blank">sailboat</a> or <a href="../../../../used-trawler-yachts-for-sale/" target="_blank">trawler</a>, that is chugging along at five or six knots. On sailboats, especially, they are often not listening to the VHF radio down below, so your call is unheard.</p>
<p>And on so many trawlers and other powerboats, the owners store their dinghy vertically on the swim platform. There is no way to read to name of the vessel to hail them as you come up on them. A loud horn will get their attention, and once you make eye contact, you can use hand signals if necessary, to let them know which way you plan to pass them.</p>
<p>Speaking of VHF radios, I am a big fan of two VHF radios, ideally two fixed radios with a third handheld unit. In stretches of many waterways, including the ICW, you share the water with commercial traffic. Having two radios on your bridge or at your helm allows you to monitor a commercial working channel, while the second radio is tuned to Channel 16 or even a bridge channel. I have found this almost a necessity on recent trips on the ICW.</p>
<p>And even if you don’t plan on it, you will likely meet some nice folks along the way on another boat. As so often happens, you both might enjoy a bit of buddy boating for a portion of the trip. Having a second radio on Channel 68 or other channel gives you the ability to stay in touch as you cruise together. That adds to the entertainment value big time during the day, as you share sights and plan tonight’s dinner without switching back and forth on Channel 16. I can assure you that it is much more fun than sitting alone in the cockpit or flybridge. Especially when you pass the pink giraffe…</p>
<p>Measure your actual air draft. While many 65-feet bridges have replaced older low bridges, it is still a particularly good thing to know for certain what the height of your boat is, to the tippy top of the mast, antenna included. What is your height off the water when you lower all antennas and perhaps the radar arch?</p>
<p><em>(Seen below: Dual VHF radios are a necessity when I travel by boat and are too valuable.)</em></p>
<p><img title="dual VHF radios on boat" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/dual-vhf-radios.jpg?cb=5A9101B2-BF9E-1F2D-CB8ACE066289355E" alt="dual VHF radios on boat" width="800" height="447" /></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Always Have A Second or Third Way to Navigate</strong></span></p>
<p>I’ve never known a problem-free boat. On Growler I used a laptop running Coastal Explorer. It was fine for many years…until the motherboard failed. It was totally unexpected.</p>
<p>Just into our first long trip on Spitfire, we lost the flybridge Raymarine E120 chartplotter. It began to flicker then went blank. I later swapped the working unit at the lower helm with the dead plotter on the flybridge to keep us in the game. When the second Raymarine chartplotter started to blink on and off in light rain, I wondered if we might be on the verge of losing our electronic navigation.</p>
<p>As the Raymarine units were already considered obsolete, I asked a technician before we left what would be a good backup system. He suggested the Garmin 740S. Self-contained with an internal GPS and preloaded charts, it could do all we needed and more. So, when this E120 started flickering, we made some phone calls to find the nearest West Marine from where we were on the Waccamaw River. We arranged to stop at Osprey Point Marina, where we got a ride to the Myrtle Beach store. That evening I installed the Garmin unit, and we were good to go.</p>
<p>Today I would also have an iPad onboard for navigation backup, using a Bad Elf GPS Pro for its outstanding accuracy of position information, which can be shared among several devices and smartphones.</p>
<p>I kind of wish I headed south again this year…and the chance to meet these new cruisers. I hope they all have a wonderful ICW experience, no matter what boat they are on, and that they slow down and enjoy the journey. It is quite an adventure, and a chance to experience our country’s history and diversity.</p>
<p>Just get started before you have to deal with early morning’s slippery ice on your decks. You’ll only make that mistake once, I promise you.</p>
<p>(Seen below: Your final destination of your cruise can yield many friendships. This is a pizza party at a marina in the Keys we hosted for friends and other boaters.)</p>
<p><img title="pizza party at marina in florida keys" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/boat-marina-pizza-party.jpg?cb=5A9101BB-0606-05DA-34FC53A64A9BEB6D" alt="pizza party at marina in florida keys" width="800" height="420" /></p>
<p><strong>More About The Great Loop: <a href="../../../../news/a-winning-great-loop-strategy">A Winning Great Loop Strategy</a></strong></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Enjoy these other boating and cruising articles by <a href="../../../../yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore">Bill Parlatore</a>:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-dawn-of-the-paperless-helm">Dawn Of The Paperless Helm</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/letting-go-but-still-in-control">Letting Go But Still In Control</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/learning-to-handle-a-new-boat">Learning To Handle A New Boat</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/improving-the-user-experience">Improving The User Experience</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-paradigm-shift-in-cruising" target="_blank">A Paradigm Shift In Cruising</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/consider-buddy-boating">Consider Buddy Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-matter-of-staying-safe-while-boating">A Matter Of Staying Safe While Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/i-am-going-cruising-should-i-carry-a-gun">Should I Carry A Gun While Cruising?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-boaters-three-to-five-year-plan">A Boater's 3-to-5 Year Plan</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/boat-tools-how-do-you-keep-yours">Boat Tools: A 4-Part Series</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-bahamas-caribbean-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Bahamas</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-alaskan-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Alaska</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-evolution-of-the-trawler-yacht">The Evolution Of The Trawler Yacht</a></li>
</ul> |
Tips For Cruising South Or Preparing For The Great Loop |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
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Cruising your boat south for the winter means preparing yourself for unforeseen challenges. |
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2020-11-02 00:00:00.0 |
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<p>Seattle Yachts is a new sponsor of the American Great Loop Cruisers Association (AGLCA), an organization that supports those interested in the Great Loop. The trip is a 6,000-mile journey of discovery around North America, attracting boaters and non-boaters alike.</p>
<p><a href="../../../../news/the-great-loop" target="_blank">The Great Loop</a> is essentially a circumnavigation of the Eastern U.S. and parts of Canada. There are many variations and side trips along its general route, including smaller loops such as the one around Canada’s Maritime provinces and down around New England. At whatever point you begin the Loop is where you will finish your Loop. “Crossing your wake,” as Loopers say.</p>
<p>There is no fixed time frame, but most people do it in a year or so, or over several seasons. I know one couple who did it in under 60 days, but that is not typical.</p>
<p>I put my feelers out to meet looping folks passing through Annapolis on their way around the country. My goal is to tell and celebrate their stories as they share experiences, challenges, and observations at this point during their adventure.</p>
<p>I recently met Bob Gannon and his wife, Graciela, at City Dock in downtown Annapolis. It was a hot Chesapeake summer day, and our town is buzzing this time of year, with people exploring and enjoying our historic little town. Some come for the ice cream, others visit the Naval Academy, but all enjoy seeing the sights along our waterfront. The impact of Covid-19 means some parking areas are blocked off and tents set up so restaurants can serve tables outside for casual dining, following social distancing, of course.</p>
<p>(Below: Bob and Graciela having lunch in Annapolis.)</p>
<p><img title="Bob and Graciela" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/bob-and-graciela.jpg?cb=B8616874-C384-87A7-B768817021455356" alt="Bob and Graciela" width="800" height="519" /></p>
<p>I met Bob and Graciela at their boat, docked near the dinghy dock. The tug was plugged in to shore power to run the boat’s air conditioning. Sweet Love is a shiny red Ranger Tug R-31 S, launched in February of last year. Bob told me how they came to buy the boat.</p>
<p>“I grew up in a large family in Iowa,” Bob said. “And I always dreamed of one day rafting down the Mississippi River, just as Mark Twain described it.” But as so often happens with childhood dreams, life got in the way and they are put on hold.</p>
<p>When he was a young man, Bob enlisted in the service and volunteered as a rescue medic aboard a helicopter in Vietnam. The experience was beyond what most people can imagine and left him with an indestructible conviction to never let fear hold him back from doing anything he set his mind on. Bob also resolved to do everything in this life in the time he had left. Leave no arrow in his quiver, as he put it.</p>
<p>He went on to a successful business career, and in 1990 decided to take up flying. With only 142 hours of flight time under his belt, he set off to fly across the Atlantic in his single engine aircraft, Lucky Lady. Unfortunately, about the time he logged 285 hours in his flight book, his plane crashed in Kenya, and was destroyed. Bob walked away.</p>
<p>Undeterred, he set off again in a Cessna 182 he named Lucky Lady II. Over the course of 10 years, Bob flew his single engine aircraft solo, crisscrossing the world, the longest flight being 18 hours from Oakland, California to Hawaii. When he completed his world flying adventure, visiting155 countries, he stopped flying, having accomplished what he set out to do. (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyM7ok-juew" target="_blank">Click here to watch his video on Youtube</a>.)</p>
<p>In 2019, with Graciela at his side, they discovered this boating adventure called the Great Loop. It sounded interesting, perhaps a modern interpretation of floating down the Mississippi on the raft of his childhood. Neither had any boating experience, but that didn’t stop them. Bob and Graciela love travel and are keenly curious about the world.</p>
<p>The search for the right boat led them to the Ranger Tugs yard in Kent, Washington, in February of 2019. As Bob considered this line of smaller cruisers, one strong attraction is that they can be trailered. The folks at Ranger Tugs talked him into a new R-31 S, which they promised would be completed in time for the company’s popular owner events. These seasonal celebrations begin in May in British Columbia, followed by activities in Desolation Sound, with a September finale at the Ranger Tugs Rendezvous in Roche Harbor, on the northwest side of San Juan Island.</p>
<p>(Below: Bob and Graciela's new Ranger Tugs getting ready to splash.)</p>
<p><img title="ranger tugs boat" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/ranger-tug-ready-to-splash.jpg?cb=B8AEA89A-E43E-6B64-99EF24D564380FE2" alt="ranger tugs boat" width="800" height="500" /></p>
<p>The couple took online boating classes and planned to learn over the summer how to handle the new boat, gaining as much as they could from other owners during the owner events. Graciela learned to handle all lines for docking and mooring, while Bob drives the boat. They share navigation duties and are extremely impressed with their Navionics charts on Garmin electronics.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Related: <a href="../../../../news/getting-ready-for-the-great-loop">Getting Ready For The Great Loop</a></strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p>After the Roche Harbor rendezvous, a driver loaded Sweet Love onto a trailer and headed south from Seattle to Chattanooga, Tennessee. The couple planned to attend the AGLCA Fall Rendezvous at Joe Wheeler State Park in Rogersville, Alabama, in October, which would be the official starting point of their Great Loop.</p>
<p>(Below: "Sweet Love" is on the trailer and ready for its road trip to Tennessee.)</p>
<p><img title="boat on trailer" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/sweet-love-on-a-trailer.jpg?cb=B8E445CB-B015-2140-70034EA7CED7533D" alt="boat on trailer" width="800" height="437" /> </p>
<p>By the time they reached Annapolis for some warranty repair work (a failed generator temperature sensor), they had already had quite an adventure. They attended the Ranger Tugs Rendezvous at Burnt Store Marina in Punta Gorda, on the Gulf side Florida, and loved a side trip to the Dry Tortugas off the Florida coast.</p>
<p>Even though they were forced to halt the trip early March in Jacksonville due to Covid-19, it was only a temporary stop as the country worked through restrictions and closures. They went home to isolate and did not return to the boat until the end of June. They finally left Jacksonville on July 1st, heading up the ICW to continue their Great Loop.</p>
<p>Graciela told of their rescue of a sailor from a flipped Hobie Cat in gnarly Albemarle Sound, which thankfully had a happy ending. They also decided to take the optional ICW route up the Dismal Swamp from Elizabeth City, North Carolina to Norfolk, Virginia, which they also thoroughly enjoyed.</p>
<p>(Below: The Dismal Swamp is an optional route for the Great Loop.)</p>
<p><img title="Dismal Swamp on Great Loop Route" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/dismal-swamp-virginia.jpg?cb=BA04321E-E7EC-0525-2A209C66CFFFEC2B" alt="Dismal Swamp on Great Loop Route" width="659" height="891" /> </p>
<p>As you probably know by now, Bob and Graciela are movers, not stayers, as every day they move. Which so fits Bob’s philosophy of life.</p>
<p>“Like everything else in life,” Bob explained, “Jump In!”</p>
<p>They said they would much rather spend one day in five places than five days in one place. It has been their mantra since leaving Chattanooga. Sweet Love has 470 hours on its 320hp Volvo diesel and the boat traveled 4,500 miles by the time they reached Annapolis (the hours and miles include time in the PNW).</p>
<p>Graciela said how much she loves the tiny home concept of small boat living, and Bob agrees, although he would prefer more lounging space, like a settee where he could stretch out. Oh well, he shrugged, this is fine for us, especially as it allows us to consider shipping the boat to Europe to explore its canal systems.</p>
<p>Their style of boating is to stay flexible and let their curious spirits dictate where they go. The most fun they have had on this trip is to be able to just pick up and go, without agonizing over schedules or details. While I found them very social people, they admit they generally avoid crowds and prefer a more solitary lifestyle. They wore masks during their time in Annapolis, which they explored with the bicycles they carry aboard Sweet Love.</p>
<p>(Below: "Sweet Love"docked in Annapolis.)</p>
<p><img title="Ranger Tugs docked in Annapolis" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/ranger-tug-in-annapolis.jpg?cb=BA59846D-E9FD-9DE5-65B4A2F7953E18C0" alt="Ranger Tugs docked in Annapolis" width="800" height="494" /> </p>
<p>Their plan when they left Annapolis the next day was to visit Rock Hall then Baltimore before heading up the Bay to parts north. Obviously, Covid-19 continues to impact travel and even though they are solitary people, they wish there were more traditional Looper events and raft ups where couples visit each other's boats.</p>
<p>(Below: "Sweet Love" docked in Baltimore with the city skyline in the background.)</p>
<p><img title="baltimore harbor" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/baltimore-harbor.jpg?cb=BA6A00E1-0502-7C9A-8F324D08941418A2" alt="baltimore harbor" width="800" height="509" /> </p>
<p>And Covid-19 makes their northbound travel plans uncertain. If Canada opens up, they would like to head up the Hudson River, Lake Champlain into the St. Lawrence River, visit Nova Scotia, then down around New England and back into the Hudson River to continue the regular route of the Loop. No matter what happens over the next couple of months, they will stop for the season at the end of October at Winter Harbor Marina in Brewerton, New York on Oneida River. Despite their steady routine of moving every day, they have no problem leaving the boat either. They will complete their Great Loop over the course of several years. They are flexible.</p>
<p>Their advice to anyone thinking of doing this trip, even if they have no prior boating experience, is to not wait. Bob is 70, at the beginning of the <a href="../../../../news/a-case-for-buying-a-new-boat-when-its-time-to-go" target="_blank">Magic Decade </a>that I often talk about. He told me of his contemporaries who keep putting things off and then some condition or illness develops and ties them into regular medical appointments. Taking trips becomes less possible and soon becomes impossible.</p>
<p>The Magic Decade is also how he justified buying a new boat for this trip. He knows he can reasonably expect everything to work well for 10 years without the constant repairs and breakdowns that are a certainty on an older boat. So, he wisely bought a new boat. I have seen this logic prove itself over and over. It is reality.</p>
<p>Bob and Graciela sent me photos from Baltimore and I’m sure they are well on their way north by now. As new cruisers, their spirit of adventure impressed me with their can-do attitude. There is much to be said about living life to the fullest right now, and not put off dreams when the window of opportunity may not come this way again.</p>
<p>As Bob said so well, “Jump In!”</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Also Read: <strong><a href="../../../../news/a-winning-great-loop-strategy">A Winning Great Loop Strategy</a></strong></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Enjoy these other boating and cruising articles by <a href="../../../../yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore">Bill Parlatore</a>:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="../../../../news/guide-to-how-much-the-great-loop-costs">How Much Does The Great Loop Cost?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-dawn-of-the-paperless-helm">Dawn Of The Paperless Helm</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/letting-go-but-still-in-control">Letting Go But Still In Control</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/learning-to-handle-a-new-boat">Learning To Handle A New Boat</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/improving-the-user-experience">Improving The User Experience</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-paradigm-shift-in-cruising" target="_blank">A Paradigm Shift In Cruising</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/consider-buddy-boating">Consider Buddy Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-matter-of-staying-safe-while-boating">A Matter Of Staying Safe While Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/i-am-going-cruising-should-i-carry-a-gun">Should I Carry A Gun While Cruising?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-boaters-three-to-five-year-plan">A Boater's 3-to-5 Year Plan</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/boat-tools-how-do-you-keep-yours">Boat Tools: A 4-Part Series</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-bahamas-caribbean-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Bahamas</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-alaskan-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Alaska</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-evolution-of-the-trawler-yacht">The Evolution Of The Trawler Yacht</a></li>
</ul> |
Taking On The Great Loop |
https://www.seattleyachts.com/yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore |
The Great Loop |
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A boater's story about learning to take on the cruising adventure known as the Great Loop. |
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2020-08-06 00:00:00.0 |
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<p>I have read many stories and blogs, and watched videos over the years from people who did the <strong>Great Loop</strong>, the connected waterways in America and Canada that circle the eastern portion of North America. As the Loop suggests, the point where you begin the trip is where you finish, crossing your wake as they say, some 6,000 miles later. For many boaters and people looking for an attainable adventure, this is a highlight on many bucket lists.</p>
<p>It is amazing how diverse this trip can be. I followed the adventure of Dave Pike, who did his Loop solo in a 15-foot Walker Bay inflatable, starting and ending his Loop in Grand Haven, Michigan. And I’ve met dozens of cruisers as they pass through Annapolis, on their way up the Bay to the C&D Canal.</p>
<p>Spend a few hours on the computer to read what people think is a good Loop boat and you’ll get lots of free advice and opinions. Most couples plan to do the Great Loop in a year. If you break the trip up into sections, it can be extended over a couple of years, if that better fits your preferences.</p>
<p>I get a kick reading some of the online advice about what are the “best” boats for the Loop, and frankly, I disagree with them all. Call me an old fuddy-dud, but I consider the Great Loop to be the quintessential <a href="../../../../Buying-And-Owning-Trawler-Yachts" target="_blank">trawler</a> lifestyle experience. And it is the difference between exploring our national parks in a luxury motor coach and doing it in a Class B Sprinter van. The similarity between <a href="../../../../used-cruising-yachts-for-sale/" target="_blank">cruising boats</a> and these RVs is striking. The motor coach offers spread-out living spaces, multiple slides with king-size bed, formal dining area, recliner chairs, and a luxurious bath with separate shower and washer/dryer. The converted Sprinter van is a cramped shoebox that may include a portable toilet. Which appeals to you to live in for a year?</p>
<p>(<a href="../../../../New-Nordic-Tugs-For-Sale/" target="_blank">Nordic Tug Boats</a> are efficient cruisers that are capable of handling the Great Loop. The <a href="../../../../new-yachts-for-sale/Nordic-Tugs-40" target="_blank">Nordic Tug 40</a> is featured below and available through Seattle Yachts.)</p>
<p><img title="Nordic Tug 40" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/nordic-tug-40.jpg?cb=7BC58705-D934-5C03-21791672EADF48E7" alt="Nordic Tug 40" width="800" height="446" /> </p>
<p>Some suggested boats are not much more than pocket cruisers. Think about that. You will be living together for months on the boat, your home for 8 months or more. Where do you think you will put everything, the clothes, provisions, spares, tools, books and whatever for a year-long trip? A weekender is not going to make for a happy wife. On a small boat, every element of the boat must serve several purposes. A wet head, and daily need to fold and unfold furniture grows old quickly.</p>
<p>On the other hand, a trawler large enough for two people and their stuff is ideal for this adventure. The trawler lifestyle is about being comfortable and relaxed, and fully self-sufficient with the comforts of home. That is just not possible in a boat under a certain size. Will you be happy seeking out a laundromat on a regular basis for the better part of a year? I certainly would not, and I won’t even ask my wife...</p>
<p>Life is better on a larger trawler that has multiple spaces to relax, eat, read, write a blog, chill, and Zoom with family members to catch up with the latest news.</p>
<p>Let me share some information from a couple who did the Great Loop on their <a href="../../../../Used-Yachts-For-Sale/Grand-Banks-Yachts">Grand Banks </a>42 Classic. That is a typical, good size for full time liveaboard cruising. Drawing a couple of inches more than 4 feet, however, they ran aground 17 times in their 5,605 miles Loop, which included the Trent Severn Waterway. (See map of their route.)</p>
<p><img title="Great Loop Route Map" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/great-loop-route-map.jpg?cb=3B6A72B7-A095-C017-83BB532980320747" alt="Great Loop Route Map" width="782" height="900" /></p>
<p>(Map used with permission Raven Cove Publishing, <a href="http://www.greatloop.com">www.greatloop.com</a>.)</p>
<p>They took a year, spending 253 days en route, with 136 days under way. The couple put 656 hours on their Lehman diesels, burning 2,825 gallons of diesel at an 8.5 mph average speed. All told, they spent about $24,000 to do the trip (I adjusted for current fuel prices), which included $10,000 for repairs along the way. (This figure does not, however, include an additional $15,000 for a new generator and inverter midway on their trip. Such is the reality of cruising on an older boat.)</p>
<p>For those who like details, the couple visited 19 states and provinces, traveled on 51 waterways, visited 90 marinas for 171 nights, went through 101 locks, and anchored, moored, or tied to a lock wall 52 times. They took more than 4,000 pictures.</p>
<p>Anyone interested in more detail of this trip-of-a-lifetime should check out the American Great Loop Cruisers Association (greatloop.org). The organization offers the most up-to-date information for anyone planning a Great Loop experience. They host rendezvous events at key locations along the Loop, are at many boat shows, and offer easy ways to connect with other like-minded people. The AGLCA maintains online resources that clarify the latest physical restrictions and recommendations for size, height, draft, beam, and other important data points for all variations of the Great Loop.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Related: <a href="../../../../news/getting-ready-for-the-great-loop">Getting Ready For The Great Loop</a></strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p>My suggestion is to write down the parameters of the route you want to do, then put together a list of requirements for the boat. In addition to being comfortable for a couple as a home during the trip, with the modern conveniences we now expect, it also needs certain equipment, layout, and hardware to safely serve your needs.</p>
<p>The best Loop boat will have a range of at least 500 miles. Having to refuel every day or every other day forces stops at marinas and takes away much of the freedom that a trawler provides. It can become a kind of delivery, with time schedules and route planning. The beauty of the trawler concept is self-sufficiency, which includes a longer range to fill up when the price is right. That couple with the Grand Banks 42 were able to travel from Brewerton, New York, all the way to DeTour Village, Michigan, without needing to buy expensive diesel fuel for the month they traveled on Canadian waters. The GB carries 650 gallons of fuel and 300 gallons of water, which makes for a competent, self-sufficient trawler.</p>
<p>(Seen below: The Rideau Canal in Ottawa is just one of several canals you'll cruise through along the Great Loop.)</p>
<p><img title="Canal on the Great Loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/canal-on-the-great-loop.jpg?cb=3CF76A06-FF7B-FE89-AF0AF0619CB613D6" alt="Canal on the Great Loop" width="800" height="449" /></p>
<p>Being able to run for four or five hours (the couple averaged 4.8 hours per day), then find a nice place to anchor or stop for the day. There are many guides. As one veteran told me, it is best to go for two days, then take a day off. Sound advice I’ve often followed.</p>
<p>In terms of performance, newer electronic engines (both diesel and gas) can handle the slower speeds of the Loop, which on canals, is limited to 5 mph. The rest of the time, depending on the boat, of course, up to 12 knots is a good target speed that balances fuel economy with making progress to see North America. This is where I make a case for displacement or semi-displacement trawlers. Big engines and fast cruisers are not the best choice for this adventure. Blasting around the Loop at high speed has been done, but what is the point? Did you even see anything? Again, as that Grand Banks couple were typical cruisers, they only went about 40 miles a day.</p>
<p>The new generation of cruising boats that are outboard powered will probably not have that kind of range, but offer other benefits, such as more internal storage. It is one of the tradeoffs of selecting a boat that works for you. An outboard-powered boat may be worth it if your plans after completing the Loop involve local cruising where you won’t need a full-time home afloat.</p>
<p>One consideration is the dinghy. Unless you have a small boat, chances are you will want to carry a dinghy. As you look at the cruising boat choices out there, think about how you can store a dinghy (and its outboard), then launch it, and retrieve it. Now imagine doing that a lot if you like to anchor out or explore from the mothership. The occasional frustration and inconvenience of dealing with a dinghy on some boats for a weekend will become a dreaded nightmare if it happens frequently. Wrestling an outboard over the side to mount it on the dinghy is not what most people look forward to. Unfortunately, towing a dinghy is impractical and not always safe.</p>
<p>(Seen below: The <a href="../../../../new-yachts-for-sale/Hampton-590-Motor-Yacht" target="_blank">590 Motor Yacht</a>, built by <a href="../../../../New-Hampton-Yachts-For-Sale/">Hampton Yachts</a>, has the draft and bridge clearance to be a wonderful boat for the Great Loop.)</p>
<p><img title="Hampton Yacht Great Loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/hampton-yacht-for-great-loop.jpg?cb=465996BB-C74C-101B-17409548E5578649" alt="Hampton Yacht Great Loop" width="800" height="433" /></p>
<p>Unfortunately, dinghy storage and launching systems are an afterthought on many cruising boats. (One pet peeve of mine is when people install those dinghy snaps on the swim platform to flip the dinghy vertically against the transom, which covers up the boat’s name and hailing port. Put the boat name on the bottom of the dinghy!)</p>
<p>Another important consideration is the ease of managing locks on the canals with just two people. A boat without side decks makes for a scramble while line handling. It is great if you have a midship cleat just outside the helm, so a spring line can be easily set by the person at the controls.</p>
<p>As I’ve said before, there will be the inevitable unexpected repair costs associated with owning an older boat and taking it on a year-long cruise. This is something to think about when planning the Loop. Do not just buy a boat, load your stuff, and leave. Get to know it and get comfortable with all aspects of boat operation. While you may not be far away from civilization and its services, it is best to go over all systems ahead of time, perhaps including an engine survey to eliminate problems during the trip. Twenty-year-old hoses may need to be replaced, electrical wiring checked for corrosion, possibly new batteries, and systems serviced as necessary.</p>
<p>Enrolling in the BoatUS towing service is well worth it. Same for Sea Tow in regions it serves.</p>
<p>There is one unique and humorous aspect of the Great Loop that many don’t realize, especially cruisers used to the self-sufficiency mantra. Pete Kopchak presented his trip to our audience early on when the trip was still called the Great Circle. (The AGLCA did not yet exist and Pete and his wife were early pioneers.) The couple spent four years preparing their Hatteras LRC 42 for the trip.</p>
<p>Fully stocked and provisioned, with spares for everything, they did the Great Loop...and returned home with all those provisions and parts they had so carefully stored and documented. We all laughed when Pete reflected that they planned as if they were heading deep into the Amazon, when, in reality, they were stopping for the night in places like Albany, Michigan City, Charleston, and Mobile.</p>
<p>(Seen below: Bohicket Marina on Seabrook Island is a popular stopping point in Charleston along The Great Loop.)</p>
<p><img title="Bohicket Marina on The Great Loop" src="../../../../photos/articles/correct/charleston-marina-on-great-loop-trip.jpg?cb=3DC8340B-0C2E-1E05-955CF896181735D8" alt="Bohicket Marina on The Great Loop" width="800" height="400" /></p>
<p>I have done sections of the Loop and my best advice is to slow down and enjoy it. Remember, it is not a delivery and you are not likely to come this way again. I try (usually in vain) to get Loopers I meet to not do the Chesapeake Bay in three days (Norfolk to Solomons to Annapolis to C&D Canal). That is what they do, however, and while they may later say they saw the Chesapeake, no, they did not see the Chesapeake. The same can be said for most other areas along the Loop. The Thousand Islands comes to mind, as does Charleston and New York City. The Rideau Canal is a magical side trip, the Great Lakes are impressive (and freshwater!), and the Gulf Coast, South Florida, and the ICW all have charm of their own.</p>
<p>It is no wonder many people from around this country and Canada hope one day to do the Great Loop. From what my broker friends tell me, it has grown in popularity with couples and families from across Europe and Down Under.</p>
<p>It is a special way to see and experience North America, and lifelong friendships, experiences, and memories are guaranteed.</p>
<p>What are you waiting for?</p>
<p>(Also read: <strong><a href="../../../../news/taking-on-the-great-loop">Taking On The Great Loop!</a> and <a href="../../../../news/tips-for-cruising-south-or-preparing-for-the-great-loop" target="_blank">Preparing For The Great Loop</a>)</strong></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Enjoy these other boating and cruising articles by <a href="../../../../yacht-broker/Bill-Parlatore">Bill Parlatore</a>:</span></p>
<ul>
<li><a href="../../../../news/lets-go-on-the-great-loop">Let's Go On The Great Loop!</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/guide-to-how-much-the-great-loop-costs">Guide To How Much The Great Loop Costs</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-dawn-of-the-paperless-helm">Dawn Of The Paperless Helm</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/letting-go-but-still-in-control">Letting Go But Still In Control</a></li>
<li><a href="seattleyachts.com/news/heading-out-for-the-summer">Heading Out For The Summer: The Triangle Loop</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/learning-to-handle-a-new-boat">Learning To Handle A New Boat</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/improving-the-user-experience">Improving The User Experience</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-paradigm-shift-in-cruising" target="_blank">A Paradigm Shift In Cruising</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/consider-buddy-boating">Consider Buddy Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-matter-of-staying-safe-while-boating">A Matter Of Staying Safe While Boating</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/i-am-going-cruising-should-i-carry-a-gun">Should I Carry A Gun While Cruising?</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/a-boaters-three-to-five-year-plan">A Boater's 3-to-5 Year Plan</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/boat-tools-how-do-you-keep-yours">Boat Tools: A 4-Part Series</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-bahamas-caribbean-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Bahamas</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/provisioning-your-yacht-for-extended-cruising-alaskan-edition">Provisioning Your Yacht For Extended Cruising - Alaska</a></li>
<li><a href="../../../../news/the-evolution-of-the-trawler-yacht">The Evolution Of The Trawler Yacht</a></li>
</ul> |
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